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First joined this forum 20 years ago when I had an 84 hatch that I had bought sitting in a field while I was in high school. At the time, I had a 91 Legacy. Drove that till it blew up and then picked up an 83 Brat that I found for sale on here and picked up another 83 for parts. Had a 2000 RS coupe in college, then a 95 Outback beater. Sold the RS and got an 05 STi, sold it in 2016 and got back into an 04 WRX in 2022. Picked up this 84 GL 2 weeks ago as if I needed another project but I am not poor on vehicles - also have a 2019 Tundra and 2015 Rav4. This thing was in surprisingly good shape for being an east TN car. With that, it does have its issues. I have on my work bench a new rear wheel bearing to install, hatch struts, will need a radiator as I see it dripping. I am also trying to nail down why the blower isn't working. I pulled the fan resistor switch last night and it showed continuity but I need to see exactly what ohm values it's supposed to have. Nothing like reading 20+ year old USMB posts. We still like pics on here? [img]https://i.imgur.com/MqOdouX.jpeg[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/Xjp7y05.jpeg[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/n71zW34.jpeg[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/j122Tg4.jpeg[/img]

As a temporary measure I just got a universal bracket to hold the pipe in place. I'm still having trouble with my exhaust, though. I've been able to attach the hanger, which helped with the sag in the connection, I replaced the gasket and the bolt set. I don't see any holes on the pipe but after the engine is running for about 90 seconds there's a smoke that comes off the pipe around the flange. It looks like the smoke is radiating from the pipe just before the flange on the manifold side. I tried using soapy water to see if I could find any bubbles but I'm not seeing anything. It doesn't seem like it's an oil or any other sort of liquid that's burning off because it's always done this since I got the car a couple months ago. If there was any residue I figured it'd have burned off by now, especially after I've wiped it down. There's no smoke coming out the tail pipe, it's just around that connection between the exhaust to intermediate pipes. Any suggestions of what to look for? I've been using a thermometer and it doesn't seem like anything is overheating, everything is in range as far as I can tell. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15sDwiU7-1OyZq7SzNpBhi5cRXYKuRaKj/view?usp=sharing

Just me personally, but I run the timing at whatever the engine like’s best. To me, the factory gives you a starting point. I’m sorry, I know that doesn’t answer your question.

I just replaced the front strut assemblies on my 2011 OB with the KYB Strut Plus product. Now the front end is sitting noticeably higher - not like "it restored the normal ride height" high, more like "a couple inches higher than any Outback I've ever seen" higher. And here's the thing, I got the strut assemblies off of amazon, and the left assembly came from a different supplier than the right assembly. So I don't think it was a "bad batch," or something like that. Both sides are doing this. Has anybody else has this problem with the KYB Strut Plus assemblies, or any other problems with the front end riding too high after swapping out the strut assemblies? And is this something that I can fix with an adjustment of some sort? Will this eventually settle down to normal ride height?

My guesses would be vacuum advance or mechanical advance aren't working, or you're setting it with vacuum advance connected or at too high of idle speed. You should set the timing with the engine idling at normal speed (no more than, say, 700rpm) and with the vacuum advance hose disconnected. After setting it at idle with vacuum advance disconnected, rev the engine up and verify timing advances with engine rpm, then apply vacuum to the pod on the dist using a hand pump or a manifold vacuum line and verify timing advances.

Perhaps the camshafts have been replaced with non-carb cams? Other than having a known carb cam to compare to, I don't know how you'd check this. Someone with more knowledge and experience than I may know. Is there any vacuum leaks to the distributor/ is the vacuum advance operating properly? Does it idle poorly at 8 degrees? :]

G’day all, Looking over a 1986 EA82 touring wagon, 5spd manual, CARB. Had an idle issue that is now sorted. What is confusing is that it runs far better with the timing set at 20° than the factory 8°. At the factory 8° it’s very sluggish and won’t build revs quickly, almost like driving in sand on a paved road. At 20° it’s a rocket and accelerates the way you’d expect it to - no pinging/detonation either. So I’m baffled as to what’s going on with the timing on this EA82. Any insight is welcome! I’d love to EJ it but it’s not my L series to mess with like that. Cheers Bennie

car-part.com is a good source. Put in your info and search. As long as you match the rear diff ratio many will interchange.

I have a ‘99 legacy outback. I’m looking around for a used transmission, what years share the same trans? Only the 1st gen’s or up into the early 2000’s? Are they different in the imprezas or non outback’s?

http://opposedforces.com/parts/ back online. It goes out periodically.

Different model to the OP with your brat @ChuckPT - and the easier fix is to take the slop out of the bracket between the selector shaft and the gear stick. This is usually achieved by removing the bracket, putting a horizontal slot in it and drilling out the flogged retainer pin hole on the bracket and the selector shaft (usually with both in position from under the vehicle), then replace the retainer pin with a high tensile nut and bolt arrangement clamped down real tight. No more shifter slop after this mod. VERY common. As for the OP with the ‘91 Loyale, that issue would be with the clutch adjustment or a shot spigot bearing I reckon. Shame they never updated the thread. Cheers Bennie

I found this old thread helpful so I thought I'd contribute with my experience. I have a 1985 BRAT 4mt. Reverse slowly became useless. It felt like the stick shift couldn't move far enough right to access reverse. I took the trim and shift boot off and found that the stick was running into the 4wd linkage. The stick had two bends in it jogging it to the right ~ 1 inch so I cut the bends out and welded it straight in hopes that this would allow access to reverse. At the same time I put a wrench on the 14mm bolt connecting the linkage to the shifting shaft going into the trans and tried twisting it to the left (drivers side) hoping to get the 1-2° of angle needed. After reassembly I have reverse! Hope this helps keep someone else's classic mini truck on the road!

tnxs, know amayama, usualy used it only to searhc part numbers i had already, not diagrams, will have a better look now

Being an XT6 you really “need” to drop a H6 from a later model in it to keep some sort of purity to the XT6 name. Otherwise it’s like a resto modded XT4 with a 5 stud conversion… Good luck with it. I’m keen to see pics of your build Cheers Bennie

Good luck, they are fun cars.

Although I recently had similar symptoms, I finally read the trouble code and got 14. Copilot told me that my #1 cylinder injector was malfunctioning. Upon inspection, there was lots of white corrosion inside of the connector. Scratching as much of that corrosion off, not only made the engine run normal again, but it meant that I did not have to go shopping for another car. Win-Win.

An EGR red light on your dash would indicate that either your EGR valve has issues or your EGR solenoid has issues. A faulty EGR setup can cause the problems that you describe, according to the Subaru manual and CoPilot.

Thank you Todd for taking the time to do this write up!

Hi yall, been a minute. Glad to see the forum is still up. I'm about to check out an XT6 that was just listed for sale. 1988. Was driven to where it sits, but been sitting for several years. I've got a 94 ej22t wagon that'd I consider swapping the engine from. My question is, can I use the ej22t ecu with the XT6 autobox? I'd like to 5spd swap it. I've got an 89 GL wagon d/r and another d/r 5spd laying around. I'd rather source an ej series 5 speed for parts availability, durability. EJ 5spd should work with the XT6 splines correct? Anyway, I'm either buying the XT6 (dunno how the rust situation underneath is) or there's a non-running ea82 turbo wagon (originally a California car w no rust) a couple hours drive south that I have lined up, with a spare motor. XT6 is pretty darn rare here in western Canada. My buddy had a turbo XT in highschool and it was a blast. Not the best weight distribution. I figure it'd make a pretty fun cruiser or potential drift car with the weight so far upfront. I know in the past some have set the engine further back, cutting the firewall. Anyway, just spitballin another irresponsible car purchase. I'd like to get it running this summer.

So I believe I discovered thr original issue of a delay of charging was due to the battery indicator bulb being burned out, so it wasn’t signaling the alternator to start charging upon startup. I’ve replaced the bulb and so far, it is charging within a couple seconds of starting.

Clutch is now much easier to disengage than the hydraulic one in my Chevy S10! After fixing this array, my right front axle went out, had to drive homr in 4wd. Yet another project. Thank you all for you kind suggestions and wishing you the best.

www.partsouq.com Works with many manufacturers, and can lookup by VIN. I'm a dealership parts guy by trade, and I use it all the time. Sometimes has some good aftermarket interchange info, too. www.amayama.com has some, too. It's been a long time since I've used opposed forces.

Hia Havent needed much in terms of original parts of late, but now i do and the old trusty opposedforces parts fiche site is gone forever.... Other alternatives? tried to use catcar.info but looks like its not the complete set of diagrams tnxs!

Recycled 11 car batteries; received $5 each for regular car batteries at Battery X-Change in Beaverton and received $91.44 for 8 T-105 6V batteries or ~$11.43 per battery at Far West Recycling in Tualitan.

Wish I could be helpful but do you have a part number for that solenoid you’re looking for?