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So, what's the correct method for getting new brake pads to slot in correctly to the calipers? I have tried following this guy's video but he makes it look stupid easy. I'm either not holding my mouth right or doing it totally wrong.

Solved - hopefully It was my EGR solenoid. It had an intermittent connection at the connector which was in turn messing with my vacuum. I'll keep an eye on it but the CEL that was intermittent was throwing a code 34. I'll also keep an eye on the connection to the IACV. :]

Looking at buying this '98 Legacy OB. I 'think' there was a headlight assembly / housing (not the bulbs) change in the '97-'99 years? Please look at this and tell me what you think. There is something amiss as the side-marker / turn signals don't line up. Thanks

alt belt off, new timing belts and idlers. Starting up cold i have a faint squeal like dry bearing. it goes away after a minute. oil pump feels good, can't tell about distributer, haven't pulled it to check. Anyone have similar problem and advice to save me some hunting?

I'm sure with enough time they are serviceable. I'm not sure what the internals of the IAC actuator look like, it's definitely not meant to be taken apart. The entire valve is a part. You couldn't buy just the actuator even when they were available new. My guess is I'd "just" need to get a coil rewound for it. Something theoretically simple that in practice will prove to be anything but. The actuator I replaced tested okay. But I only tested it cold. The resistance changes as the coil heats up and maybe it was only out of spec when it warmed up? I'll be honest the only reason I was using that actuator was because it tested okay (so I thought) and it was the best looking. I was putting lipstick on a pig but it's still nice to see shiny parts on an old vehicle. :]

Lots of folks add grounding straps too. That old IAC look at all serviceable or can an attempt to cleaning it help? Only because as time rolls one your supply will only lessen. I’m all done with that era but have 70s so I can tell you a bit about all that. More 70s parts out there than your era. That’s when SOA became a monster to the smaller dealers. And new dealers complied to their wishes to scrap New old stock parts going as far as to dent fenders etc before tossing them so they could not be dumper diver take aways.

I just noticed that lots of people have been locked out due to failed logins. All accounts have been unlocked, but if you cant remember your login info, please email me so we can get you a new password to login. Rob turbone@gmail.com

Now the CEL comes and goes every now and then. I'm guessing it's an intermittent connection. I'll have to pull the engine harness and check it. If it's not that then I'll have to check the body harness and the connections. Wouldn't hurt to check my grounds too. :]

And the moral is... Start with the simple, most relevant parts, before looking for exotic complex failures. Not idling? Start with the idle valve. Only if it's not that, then think about pumps and valve springs and injectors and alternators....

It was my IAC valve. On my way home from work I finally got a CEL. Pulled the code and it was a code 34 for the IACV. I replaced the "solenoid" (turns out it's actually a bimetallic actuator that uses a heating coil) and it idles like a dream. Smooth as silk and the vacuum is rock steady, no excessive vacuum flutter on start up. :]

I did not get around to messing with the IAC. I was helping a few friends with their cars. What about the idle adjustment? Maybe my idle is set too low and the computer has to overcompensate. Does anyone have any pointers on how to adjust the idle on an EA82 SPFI setup? Do I have to connect the test connector(s)? Disconnect the IAC? I only have the MPFI idle adjustment in my FSM. This throttle body is a junkyard unit. So the chances of the idle adjustment screw being off are high. :]

Colorado time machine?

Not anytime soon. If it was the same ratio we probably would but I think the 6MT low range swap is going to wait a while. We just tacked up all the links, we'll mock it up and see how the lengths work out. The R160 is a bit narrower than the R180 but those big front axles have quite a bit of plunge travel and not a lot of it is used in the rear.

Are you putting an R180 in the Forester?

B fit and tacked up a set of lateral links for the billet knuckle swap. I turned up some of the pieces for that and a couple of wheel bearing spacers. Sometime in the next month or so we plan on swapping out his rear diff and doing the billet rear knuckle conversion on his Forester.

Not much of an update but the wife got me a roof basket that I had on my Amazon wish list for Valentine's Day. More of cosmetic thing but I like the way it looks.

I bought the injector and once I got it I compared it side-by-side with a Loyale injector. They're the exact same. I vacuum sealed the injectors with desiccant packets. Hopefully they'll last until I need them. I've heard it's the moisture that'll corrode the coils and kill them. Are you asking about that weird horseshoe gasket? For installation I use a few dabs of silicone grease to hold the gasket into the throttle body then quickly flip the throttle body onto the intake. There's Walker brand throttle body gasket kits, I'd recommend those. You get every seal you'd need for a throttle body rebuild. I'd recommend a coolant system pressure test after you install a new gasket. I've learned my lesson on that one the hard way. :]

With Subaru part numbers, if the second last digit is different by one digit value it usually indicates a compatible part number. Some times you can find this occurs up to for our five digit number values as updated but compatible parts become available. I’d put money on those two part numbers you give there as being the same. What do you do for that unique O ring setup between the TBI and the intake manifold? Asking as I have a SPFI setup to go on an ea81 over here (we didn’t get them in Oz) and that gasket is a little worse for wear - not that it’s going into a vehicle anytime soon, it’s in waiting.

I have not yet gotten around to messing with the IAC valve. I'll be doing some work on the car this weekend so I'll get to it then. The previous owner had spliced in some spade connectors on the IAC valve so the OEM connector was removed. Perhaps the valve was a junkyard/used unit that had the wires cut. Is it possible I just have the polarity flipped on the IAC and that's causing my issues? Will reversing to polarity damage anything? Perhaps the IAC solenoid. That mechanical portion of the valve was ultrasonic cleaned. Unless 3000 miles gummed up the valve that bad, I doubt it's a sticky valve. The issue is sporadic. Leading to me believe it's electrical. :]

Good engine. 5EAT is lovely when it works. I think higher failure rate than 4 speeds. Prepare for electrical issues. Rear tailgate harness breakage. Passenger airbag light fails and disables the entire airbag system. Any trouble code disables the cruise.

I boycott bookface. NFW. I did notice it's been relatively quite here; hate to see everyone defect. I feel the same way about the newer, but if this is the same basic engine as my '01 H6s, I think I'll be happy.

Not a big fan of FB but there’s a “Subaru Mechanics” group that might offer a wider base of knowledge than this aging message board. Apologies if you’re already aware. Wish I could contribute. Right now I’m a little gun shy of the whole 2005 to present engines.

Crickets... awesome. Couldn't help buying it at the price. VVT strikes me as marginal fussiness but probably harmless, though I've seen oil leak through them in a friend's EJ25. The car's twenty years old and already too modern for my taste, though. Electronic gear selection, auto-dimming rearview mirror, no key lock on the hatchback, etc. But we'll see how it goes.

Finally made more billet rear knuckles. Spent some time making these a little smoother/nicer than the first pair. One pair with tapped holes in the side for wheel scraper/caliper bracket and no wheel bearing holes for slammo. He is planning on using a different bolt on wheel bearing, I'll machine that when the time comes.

Radiator bottom temp has been interesting. Once the engine is up to temp the bottom rad temp will be anywhere from 100F-200F, never changing very quickly. Occasionally all three will be within 10F. Does seem like being stopped and/or periods of high load will cause the temps to creep up but not real consistently. Block temp sensor and top rad both stay around 190-210F in normal city driving. Think I fixed my power steering leak. Replaced the return line from the rack which I'm almost positive was leaking. Thing isn't even 30 years old, disappointing. Replaced both o rings where the lines connect above the crossmember. While I was at it I simplified/shortened the return line routing a bit.