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I have the original manuals 1-6 for the car, ill dig em out and get to book worming. Last time I read through them I wasnt granted much useful, hopefully I can make better use of em. And I checked my oil after the drive to school this morning, still good 👍🏽 Sparks are brand new, oil filter, and oil have less than a thouwow in miles, and the tick comes and goes as i drive, usually getting to be completely quiet once shes warm.

I haven't worked on one of those engines (I'm more of a Gen II wagon fan), but those problems could just be it's time for routine maintenance... Change your spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, check for vacuum leaks (vacuum hoses, brake booster, stuck evap, intake gaskets, etc), clean throttle body, clean MAF sensor, check temperature sensor, clean idle air control valve, adjust idle throttle stop, change fuel filters, check fuel pressure under full load, etc. Some lifter tick is normal with that many miles - you can try various flushes and such, or just live with it. It sounds like this car is new to you, so keep a close eye on the oil level until you know just how fast it uses it - running it with no oil will make that engine swap suddenly a high priority. https://charm.li/ is good for quickly looking things up, https://project-car.net/technical-info/ has a pdf service manual, and you can google for other manuals... or ebay a full set. Will come in handy with the amount of work you plan on doing.

Good to know. I guess it goes to show that just reading through specs on the Internet isn't a substitute for checking things in person. Also turns out the Nissan Rogue struts are 49mm in diameter.

The tick isn’t anything detrimental - just lifter tick. Parts are basically unobtainiam for the XT6 other than those shared with the L series - and even these are starting to dry up. The H6 conversion would be sick. The wiring is the biggest part of the job. After that it’s driving it so you don’t kill the gearbox! That said, a mate of mine ran the 3L H6 in a gen2 Liberty with the same gearbox that’s in your XT6 - just a dual range version. The thing was mint offroad with the locking centre diff. Sadly he killed the diff one trip in the sand as it didn’t lock and he fried it. Enjoy the journey - collect parts when you can find them! The air bag setup you might need to go down the custom aftermarket route. I don’t have any leads on this sorry.

Oh youre 100% correct, I intend to do all the side missions before I finish the game yeah? Perhaps I should've been more clear that thats a long term goal not intended to be done ASAP, but I still wanted yalls opinions on it. Regards to the engine, im not certain of the full extent of its issues but it has the tick, I need to locate and afford an oil pump seal so I can hopefully fix that issue, which hopefully you guys can educate me on as well. My main concern is that it will stall randomly upon pressing the clutch in, the engine power seems to wane randomly like the engine isn't firing properly or something, its not an issue per se but its coming up on 300,000 miles, I believe its burning a little oil? But its doing so at a snails pace and ive barely had to give it oil to keep it up after the first oil change. I want to change all my gaskets if I can but I cant seem to locate any gaskets for the engine, and I have trust issues with Ebay.

I think you should start with simpler projects, like CVs, ball joints, and tie rod ends, before worrying about an engine swap. Until you're confident with routine maintenance like that, an engine swap isn't even something you can consider. Then worry about suspension mods and such until you're comfortable with fab work and re-engineering things. Then you can start researching engine swaps or other large projects. Is there even anything wrong with your current engine?

So, theres a lot of levels to this, being that i intend to make this car outlast me so ill try to keep this organized First and foremost, I both want and need to replace, revamp, or otherwise retrofit most of my undercarriage, while its served perfectly as my daily driver, I can feel and hear that my tie rods are bad, ball joints too I'm sure, my power steering works most of the time but id like to do whatever is best to get it at maximum capability again, idk what CV Axles or how to figure out certain part specifics like that so please explain it to me like I'm a child should you do so. I'd also like to swap it to coilovers for now, please drop me some specifics or what kinds of coilovers will fit exactly so i can start to search for them as ive been lost so far, eventually ill return it to functional air suspension and hopefully get it all working again so i can show off the height calibration stuff. Generally, I'd like to restore as much of this car to "original" as humanly possible. I, of course, want to customize it a small bit but I'd feel like im ruining the car if i start trying to turbo things and stance it so im hoping to keep it tame, focus on function as much as i can, but i cant rely on the ER27 for as long as Id like to keep the car, if yall think its possible for me to revive the ER27, id love that, the engine has a classic charm and rumble to it i wont get out of my next ask for advice Which brings me to my main point and the full extent of my intentions for the car I love the flat 6 engines, the EG33 isn't as easy to obtain, but the EZ30-36 are common enough and powerful enough that I can reasonably obtain one and a donor subie for 3-800 dollars(if yall are fckin with this idea, should I get the 03 or 05 3.0, is One better?) My hope and plan is to lift the ER27 out, replace it with an ez30 and hopefully keep the oem 5 speed, i understand the saying is easier than doing, im trying to establish a baseline and a timeline so I can put my dream car back together. Truly any advice, anything yall know, and any parts you could offer me would do me a world of good. Anything common with the car that could help me would a miracle as well because finding people nowadays who even know what the car is in my area leaves me finding a better time looking for actual unicorn cars on Facebook marketplace. Many thanks and have a good one.

They just don’t kit like they used to. I’m unaware of kits but maybe I haven’t looked hard enough. You could ask for the urethane in black. I did that for my 70s wagons. If it’s handy can you please post that list? Or send it to me, please. We have a small fleet of those third gen Legacys and one Outback wagon.

I am collecting the part numbers for a complete refurbishment of front and rear suspension bushings.... and its long... and expensive. is there any "complete kit" that includes everything? OEM style, NOT "racy" color polyurethane

Those Hyundais have an upper control arm. The shock is not designed to support lateral loads.

I've never needed more than a good hammer on a Subaru. My 8lb mini-maul usually pops it off in one hit. loosen, but do not remove, the bolt. And smack the end of the knuckle where the tie rod goes through it (not the tie rod itself). I rented a tool similar to the one linked for my Suburban, but the hammer-smack still did the brunt of the work.

It's not hard. 2 bolts for the washer reservoir, one hose clamp for the airbox, loosen the 2 bolts for the pitch stopper, one nut on the motor mount. Floor jack and a piece of wood and the spark plugs are super easy to get to.

Thanks for your contribution?

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Sounds like the shifter knuckle needs new bushes or to be replaced with a new unit.

Or a hail of bullets like in my avatar. 🙂

You're a better man than I am.🙂

I agree with all. Thanks!

well for an update ive been driving it with the sensor on the intake manifold the car has been driving great. still not hearing any knocking by ear. seeing as no one has any input im guessing it must be fine to leave it like this.

Got the other ABS connector for the Impreza and have both fuel pumps working on the switch now, seems to empty and fill the main tank as desired. Finally took the center diff back out of the 6MT from the black Outback. Does just appear to be the faces of those shafts that were rubbing together, planetary seems fine. Have done a little PID tuning on the cams in the EZ36. For quite a while now they've been very unstable at low engine temperatures. It's been a tough problem to solve because you can only really try a few things before the engine's warm enough to smooth things out. Fortunately (?) it's been very cold here lately so I've been able to get them tuned in better. I did add another row to the table to lower the PID values before the coolant gets up to temp but I think it's mainly just been changing the values to make it more stable in general that helped. Still a few things to improve on that front but at least progress was made.

I did cover my grille for a week or two. I actually had my license plate covering the driver side of the grille since when I replaced my bumper it didn't come with the license plate mount so I had to get creative. I think it'd be cool to have a vacuum solenoid and actuator hooked up to the thermo fan relay. That way I could have some sort of active louvre that opened with the thermo fan in cold temperature. Of course I'd need to 3D print a custom grille but I think it'd be a fun project.

Ok so on the ground by 2026 didn't happen - but i did finally get things to the point where the subframe and diff are now semi-permanently attached to the car. Hooray! Using the holes in the bed for access I cleaned and tacked in the subframe, using the diff and its sheet metal as a jig to get everything in evenly Once everything was pretty sturdily tacked - I pulled the jack out from under everything. So far so good! I pulled the CV axles off of the knuckle/wheel assemblies and bolted in the stock lateral links and stacked the tires on blocks to get an idea of where I want the wheels wheels to sit at rest, and this is where the next complication arises - overall things look really good, except the wheels rub on the front of the arches left to their own devices. I'll need to play with this a little more - I'll either need to do a little bodywork to extend the wheelwells about an inch or two forward, or I may also consider options to move the whole diff/subframe assembly backwards about the same amount, though then i run into other clearance problems in the tunnel. I'll need to spend some time under the car staring at it to figure out which I'd prefer to do. Currently my gut says the latter is the easiest. For now, however, this still lets me move forward somewhat with the suspension construction. the more pressing issue at this stage is that the rear track is still several inches wide at the back. I loosely bolted the rear coils in place, and that let me get an idea of how much room I have to cut and move things inboard. I can almost see the end result - II'll be able to scrap the plan of using the impreza towers and modify the stock wheel wells without too much trouble, even though I might want to reenforce them after the fact. Had I known this prior I would have just cut the tops out, but oh well. Maybe if i do another in the future I can save myself the exploratory chopping. Or hell, even if someone else does this similarly - hopefully I can save you a little trouble. Did a little measuring and this is what I came up with: Forgive my mixed units and felt tip marker sketch on my mechanics crawler (free USPS cardboard) - but here's the broad strokes: I have a little more than roughly 2" / 5cm of horizontal clearance before the coils begin contacting things they shouldn't. The stock rear lateral links measure about 41cm long bolt center to bolt center, and I'm estimating about 10cm of vertical drop from their frame mounts to the knuckle mounts. if my math is mathed correctly, that means I'll need to shorten the link about 6cm to get the wheel moved inboard the requisite 5cm. I'm going to pull the links all the way off so I can measure them on the ground to double check these measurements - as I've found some adjustable links that would appear to be able to get close to these lengths without much serious modification and if i can do that and save myself a few hours of fabrication, I'd prefer to do that. I've also gotta figure out the trailing arm mount, but that'll come after I figure out the width issue. Anyways, that's all for my new years update - until next time kids!

www.car-part.com is a good search platform.

I am looking for a standard 5 speed transmission for a 2007 Outback basic. It has a sticker that says TY757VCDBA. Mine is showing metal, noisy and is hard to shift into gear. I changed the fluid. It has new throw out bearing, master and slave. When in gear you can still move the shifter back and forth like it’s in neutral. Can I rebuild this and if so any hints on where to find the parts? Any information is appreciated thanks!

That cogged idler would cop the most pressure on it in comparison to the other two smooth idlers I reckon. If offroading it’s the lowest one in the system so it’ll cop any crap that gets in past the cam covers first.