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Hey all, Just doing a teardown and reseal of my '08 forester manual and figured I would do the clutch at the same time. When it comes to the throwout bearing and clutch I'm not sure if I have this setup right. The single retaining clip on the throwout bearing doesn't really seem like it holds it at all to the clutch fork. From videos I see online it looks like most people have two clips to hold the throwout bearing mine just has the one big one. I've attached pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. Am I missing something? IMG_2019.HEIC

Site won't let me post pics cus they files are too large but I got a blue WRX im trying mod and need some help and advice. Parts I'm trying to get are aFe Takeda intake, aFe header, aFe exhaust, Cobb tuner, Cobb top intercooler

Site won't let me post pics cus they files are too large but I got a blue WRX im trying mod and need some help and advice. Parts I'm trying to get are aFe Takeda intake, aFe header, aFe exhaust, Cobb tuner, Cobb top intercooler

Im a new Subie owner and looking for advice or help to mod it.

Older, pre Legacy Subarus were never numerous in the borderland. They petered out in the pick a parts, over a decade ago. Suspect the pacific NW might be different. While they were here, though, the metal parts were excellent.

Just the right side so far. I'll try to get a picture today. We live in the Interior, so no halibut for us.

Brat/Brumby/MY - yes, I agree it’s a common problem. L series - never seen or heard of this issue before with one of them. @scoobydube - make sure the clutch cable isn’t doing any sharp corners that will make it work hard. What do you replace your clutch cables with - second hand OEM/new aftermarket?

Other than what bushytails says above, if the sender unit was installed with Teflon tape it might not be getting a good ground through the oil pump and block. Make sure all your earthing straps are in good shape too.

Gauges that have been shorted to ground get mechanically tweaked to always read negative except at full pressure. IIRC a 50 ohm resistor to ground should make your gauge read ~75PSI. Give that a try and see if your gauge is good. If the gauge only goes up a little with 50 ohms, you can pop the needle off the pin of the gauge and put it back on to show zero instead of negative, and see if that fixes it.

Hello Sooby World! I have a 83 Subaru GL, EA-81, with an oil pressure gauge. Since I bought the car, the gauge has sat below 0, moving every once and awhile on start up but immediately coming back to rest at nada. Bought a new oil pressure sender (Not the highest quality one, but new nonetheless), and got it installed but still nothing. When I ground out the wire to the dashboard, the dash gauge rises so I suppose that proves my dash gauge works, but when I ran a fresh temporary wire from sender to the plug that goes into the dash, nothing! I was wondering what a proper test of the actual pressure sender would be. I am pretty sure the sender is a bimetal type, and I've read that cannot be tested with a multimeter. Do I need to buy a certain type of sender to work with my dash gauge? Very confused, and not much info in my FSM I got off the web. Any help would be much appreciated.

B and I went to the UP trail riding a couple weeks ago. Went well, will post a full trip report later. Replaced driveshaft in white Outback. Eliminated that vibration but the engine (converter?) has some kind of vibration related to engine RPM and load. It's most noticeable and actually fairly annoying idling in gear. One possible cause is that despite replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets I think at least one of them still leaks. Have driven it about 500 miles since the front end rebuild though and seems mostly good. Only CEL/MIL is for one of the O2 sensor heaters. Not sure if I've mentioned it here but my wife's 2001 EZ30 Outback has had a wub wub noise proportional to road speed for a couple years now. Has probably gotten worse in that time, definitely louder or quieter depending on cornering. Have assumed it was a wheel bearing for quite a while now but couldn't figure out which one. Wanted to stick with the press in wheel bearings so the ABS would still work. It's stock and still basically rust free being from Oregon and we basically never take it off pavement. Have checked for slop and temperature a few times but neither side seems to get sloppy or hotter than any of the other hubs/bearings. Recently I decided it seems like it was probably coming from the RF and ordered a bearing, seals, and hub. Started disassembly and everything went smoothly, in fact most of the fasteners still have all the plating on them, until I got to the axle. Axle nut came off easily but the outer CV wouldn't budge in the hub. Eventually just took the whole mess off and put it in the twenty ton press. First tried some heat, more penetrant, had the spindle nut threaded most of the way back on and pressed on the socket so it wouldn't mushroom the end of the CV. Wound up shearing off the flange of the spindle nut. Had to bore that out of the socket in the lathe. Now I just started pressing directly on the CV stub and heated the hub with the oxy acetylene torch until it was cherry red. This time I broke the knuckle and somehow popped the CV axle out of the outer CV? Dug an old knuckle and axle out of the basement of the correct vintage. The ball joint in the old knuckle wasn't sloppy but the boot was torn and it was dry and rusty so I didn't want to install that. Took a while to get that out, barely got it to budge with the slide hammer. Took the good ball out of the now broken knuckle, anti seized and installed it. The only good axles I have in the right style do not have ABS rings on them for some reason. And I couldn't find any loose ABS rings. So I put it all together without that, will have to pick one up and install it sometime. On the plus side, there is now no noise when driving it.

Have 50 lbs of Halibut? Yards. www.car-part.com Left or right side or both? Pic would be nice. I could pull them for you. Larry

It should be doable - if it uses the speedo cable that’ll sort a major hurdle. If it requires a speed sensor it will need more wiring added to make this work. The rest should be repinning as needed. Don’t worry about the height sensor indicators. You could probably look up what resistance will show low and high, then pick what ride height you want to see all the time and wire that in. It’s a super cool looking instrument cluster! We didn’t get anything like that over here - not even in the Vortex range. Maybe us Aussies weren’t 80’s enough to handle a digital cluster of that era (we got the MY touring wagons with digital clusters so go figure…), I doubt it though.

Not having a charcoal canister with the purge control still in use makes sense. From what I understand of this setup is the charcoal canister collects vapour from the fuel tank vent system which is then burnt off in the cylinders when the ECU determines the right conditions are present - usually a cruise and light load revs. No charcoal canister means no vapours which is effectively just sucking air and leaning out the fuel mixture. Add in a faulty valve that could be open all the time and you get your stumbling revs/misfire like running symptoms.

My 83 and 84 both came with canisters... didn't know they ever had non-historic ones without them. For my ej22 swap, I hooked the diaphragm on the canister valve to constant vacuum, so it's always open (the stock setup had it going to venturi vacuum on the carb, where it controls the amount of purge), then hooked the purge solenoid to the purge line from the valve, so it works like a stock ej22 setup using the stock ea81 canister.

O'reilly's rebuilt CVs are a crapshoot. I've gotten 1,000 to 50,000 miles out of them. Certainly never 200,000. Also, last I asked, they were NLA. What someone told me is that the rebuild shops regrind them, but not re-case-harden them, and their life expectancy has a lot to do with how much hardening is left. The first time they get rebuilt, you get 50,000 miles. The second time.... I repack my wheel bearings every time I do CVs, which is every couple years on average... and I've had them go out on two cars now. Front right of my daily driver started growling about two months ago... got the bearings, but no time to change them.

It’s plumbed to the vapor line. I just picked up the brat and drove it home, running good, not a hiccup. My guess now is that the lack of charcoal canister anywhere in the loop caused the purge to be too laden with rich vapor. I’ll be searching for the 2000 Impreza 2.2 in-tank fuel loop parts to learn more about what the engine design originally wanted to be delivered by the purge valve, but for now, I’m happy to have the better behavior. Has anyone added a charcoal canister to this ‘85 swap with the late model 2.2? That seems like an option to learn from. Or I could hunt the u-pull for another purge valve, that engine isn’t too common around New Mexico. Plus, I don’t think the current valve is bad. It might be pulsing too much? I’ll do the resistance test on it as Benny suggests.

The socket for the front turn signal is defective, won't make consistent contact with the bulb. The socket unplugs from the harness, but I can't find a replacement. Does anyone have a source for that? It takes an 1156 single filament bulb on one end, and has two prongs to plug into the wiring harness connector on the other.

From my research, Germany and Holland are the countries with highest numbers fo Suabrus on the roads in Europe. Does anyone know who is well stocked with Subaru spares in DE or NL? I am in EU (Italy), so no problem shipping from there Had collision damage recently, the other driver's insurance is covering but they insist on using new parts (rear bumper and tailights) which i have trouble finding in Italy your help is welcome!

And it still makes 200psi? Wow. I'm impressed. I'm pretty stumped by this. All 4 cylinders? I was thinking stuck injector, but it would be strange to be all 4. I know you know this, but I'm brainstorming. The injectors are pretty simple. One wire is constant power from the ignition relay. I can't think of a likely failure mode on either side of that that would cause more fueling. But also would require some seriously bunk input information for the ECU to actually command that much fuel. And even then, I would think it would throw a DTC and override to open loop "limp mode". I guess you could unplug the MAF, then you would know it's open loop, and see what that does. But it seems far more likely that it's something mechanical. A leaky or stuck injector, a hose connected incorrectly.

With pcv disconeted still burns oil i let it run for several minutes incase of residual the cylinder walls were honed when when the rings were put in and the rings were gapped but it seemed like it only worked for 300 miles before starting to smoke bad I think Ill either tear it down and do rings again and measure everything to make sure its in speck or grab a junkyard short block to through in thanks you all for your ideas

Any chance we can get a fresh link to download Accesstuner or your maps? I have a 2016 WRX. EGR/TGV delete too 😫 Thanks!

Head Gasket blow-by?