All Activity

Can’t tell you where the relay is that you’re chasing - I wanted to share with you a common mod on the Gen1s in the early 90’s. Often with an issue like this ppl would add a horn relay to the system. This would hive direct power from the battery to the starter solenoid by using the start wire as the rely trigger reference. Worked a treat and might be something that will work for you. Just ensure there’s no rodent damage to the start wire to the starter solenoid.

At first the starter would engage and turn the engine over a couple times and then quit. After trying a few times it was only silent, not even a click. I replaced the starter motor but the solenoid does not appear to be receiving power from the signal wire. I looked at the owner's manual list of fuses and for the fuse and relays in the engine compartment and it says something like "except starter motor.". The passenger compartment fuse list in the owner's manual says fuse 21 is the starter relay but the fuse is still good. Somewhere I think I read that the blue boxes to the right of the small fuses are relays and one of them might be for the starter. Can someone tell me where to look? My battery is good and the voltage at the positive connection on the starter motor is the same voltage as the battery.

Its at the very bottom

No listing for the Brat though.

Thanks. We are thankful. Tuition, dorms, meals, all covered. It was multiple round of interviews over the phone and in person. Quite a bit more effort (and driving) compared to all the others submitted online or write an essay, etc.

Whoah an educational "free ride" and a Subaru rust free ride! Graduating debt free is liberating. Congrats to your daughter.

Congrats on All!

Found this website for brochures of every Subaru https://autocatalogarchive.com/subaru/

Most of it is for the Sedan but I'd love some scans of the Leone Estate/ GL Wagon. Here are some of the highest I could find myself. Also have some scans of EA82 manuals and some cute paper craft of the Justy I found.

Resolved, replaced both converters. Thanks Brusbrother. Got this car from Georgia for my daughter, so it's rust free, I'm sure you can appreciate that. Concern is what caused this and hoping it doesn't destroy the new ones - oil level was increasing and bad mileage, pretty sure running rich. Found and replaced one cracked injector while chasing the clogged converter issue. Time will tell. Runs great, looks great, ready for college next year, she got a free ride at her top private school pre-med and was the first player in school history to be named first team all state twice as a junior and senior. Not bad from a rural public school with very poor academic options. /end proud dad brag

We finally got the secondary fuel tank project finished. Added one fitting to each cover plate of the stock fuel tank. Ran a fuel resistant hose down the side with the main pickup. Mounted, plumbed, and wired the fuel pumps in the spare tire well. It will probably take about ten minutes to fill or empty the tank. Seems to work in both directions by watching the clear fuel filters, listening, and watching the fuel gauge. Definitely looking forward to putting the extended range to use. I rewired the fans. Two small puller fans are on the main circuit. Two pusher fans are on the sub fan circuit on a larger fuse and relay. Main goal here is to push less debris into the condenser and radiator. Another potential benefit is not blowing the fan fuse when driving in deep water. I also wired in the temp sensors we added to the radiator earlier this year. Only drove it to the grocery store and back, which is maybe a ten minute drive, but I found the results interesting. The bottom radiator temperature is basically always around 20F higher than ambient, similar to the intake air temperature. It did read much lower when unplugged and does vary a bit so I'm pretty sure that sensor is working. The top radiator temperature kept slowly increasing but was generally 40F lower than the coolant temp sensor on the engine (by the top engine water neck maybe 6" from the radiator sensor). The ones on the radiator are probably a more accurate calibration. The top ones did get within about 20F by the end and after sitting for a bit. Also means the radiator is producing up to a 120F temperature drop even parked at idle with the fans off which I found impressive. Also we worked on B's Forester a bit. Narrowed down which rear bushing needs to be replaced, replaced a wheel stud, and adjusted the parking brake.

Welcome! There's a guy 4 hours from me that has a 1990 4WD 3 door Justy listed for $2000. Body is gone but it would be a fantastic parts car. Sitting since 2013. PM me if you want the details. Cool ride, I've never put a wrench to one but it's honestly more practical than a modern Subaru for A-to-B driving. :]

Howdy, folks! I just bought a '93 Justy up in Oregon. I needed an economical daily driver. What I DIDN'T need is another oddball car with an orphaned engine that takes WAY more work to find parts and support for. That's why I'm here. Oh, well, these kinds of vehicles are in my DNA since forever, and apparently, I can't resist. I think the Justy is going to be fun. Hoping to gain some knowledge here and also add some as I dive into it, which is already happening fast..

Better to change a manual than auto trans!

None of that, hahaha. This thing stays in my shop so it's never really below 40* unless I have the heat on out there. Hope to find some time this weekend to take it up the road. We stay so busy with my son and basketball and work BS, Plus, I have 3 other cars of my own, not including the wife's.

Yeah fair enough! You didn’t do the “mandatory” double pump if the throttle before turning the ignition on? Or the other way to do it is ignition on to prime the fuel bowl, ignition off, double pump, ignition on and start. I do this one when I haven’t driven my brumby in a while, especially in summer when it seems the bowl evaporates and needs filling again.

There's a front right Sachs 4WD strut on Parts Geek right now. There's only one in stock so if you need one, now's your chance! :]

Sorry, been off-line due to a cold. I am working on another door that is a little closer to where we live. If it is rust free we are going to go with it. I should know by Wednesday afternoon (hopefully sooner).

You should always hit the gas pedal at least once before cranking, to close the automatic choke.

Ehh, a couple people have and I don't care to do stuff for people I like. Since it's his personal and I'm buying the filament with my money, we don't really have to as work doesn't own it. Key issue update: I did start it yesterday after doing some serious keyhole dousing with contact cleaner and compressed air. Didn't get any smoke but still unhooked the battery to it just for peace of mind. Old girl did start on the 3rd crank without hitting the gas pedal.

Yeah nice! We have Bambu X1 Carbon and I think a P2H - but that one is in another department as such, I might get some playtime on that this year. We’ll see. That first print is classic. Do you guys have everyone asking you to print this,that and everything in between?

Bearing issue *should* make similar noises if it’s a bearing issue. From memory there’s a bearing set between input shaft/front diff and 1st, 2nd and 3rd; 4th and 5th.

It's a Bambu P1S. I have never used one but first job I sent to it was this. Was a big hit in the office.

That pretty much confirms it's inside the trans. Though, when I had 2nd let go on one, it broke off an entire tooth on the small gear only make a light clicking noise, and lodged the tooth in the center section. Draining didn't find anything, only taking apart showed the issue. Though with how old yours is, it might also be loose bearings causing enough slop to make that constant noise

Not yet - next troubleshooting step. Thanks