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Why GD got out IMHO. I miss that knowledge. CCR and Shawn as well.

I really should be in bed. lol. But my car also needs struts, and I keep looking them up... I found what may be an exact-ish replacement: Front struts for a new Renault Megane II. Wtf, really? lol. 44.5mm diameter, 545mm/21.46in extended length, 357mm/14.06in compressed length. According to https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157099-front-struts/?do=findComment&comment=1313458 , a 4wd strut is "Extended Length 21.25" Collapsed Length 14.00"". Spring diameter looks similar, bottom lock bracket is... different, of course, but may be able to be bent to the right place. Haven't seen specs on the top nut. Fairly cheap, but not available in the US, due to said Renault vehicle never being sold in the US. Some part numbers: BILSTEIN 22-132390 KYB 333718 KYB 633718 MONROE G16387, though the monroe comes up as 2" shorter than the others. The KYB 633718 seems like it might be the premium version, and the 333718 the maybe better excel-g version, not sure what's really different... you'd be installing them with all the subaru top hardware, of course - spring perch, bearing, mount. Want to buy a pair and let me know how they work? lol And now bed. really.

I'm finding conflicting information on whether early '80s bmw 318i/325i struts might be somewhat compatible. Possibly also some newer bmw models. Will need to do more research when not falling asleep.

I just braved the mosquitos to check, and a well-used 1984 ea81 gl wagon 2wd strut measured 44.62mm at the end, so probably 45mm nominal. a 50mm sambar strut is too wide as well as too short. And, of course, 45mm seems to be an uncommon size...

Yeah, that's what I was concerned about. Unfortunately I don't have any other ideas for new BRAT suspension that don't involve a five lug swap. ISC used to build struts to order, but they don't seem to anymore.

Stock ones look a *lot* shorter... There's tons on ebay, like https://www.ebay.com/itm/167537573301 , and they look like half the length...

@bushytailsIf I get complete assemblies from Gorilla, they offer three different spring rates. So I could get firmer springs. My primary concern outside of them bolting up, is travel. I'm pretty sure sambar coilovers don't have as much travel as a BRAT. I'd love to get some used sambar struts just to see if they'll bolt up, but I have no idea where to find some. I did email Gorilla for further specs, but have yet to hear back.

Do you have a plan for shorter CVs? The diffs are indeed essentially the same. One's probably a 5-bolt R160 and the other a 1-bolt R160.

A sambar is a bit lighter than a brat, so the springs might be too soft. They give the lower tube diameter as 50mm, no other specs I can see. Email? You also might try finding some used/junk sambar parts and seeing how close they are to bolting up.

Drain coolant, pull a heater hose, plug off one end, hook the other end to compressed air with a valve, slowly let some in, listen for where it's hissing. If it's hissing at the carb, or out a spark plug hole...

Look at the clearance between the tire and the front spring perch - in all the Subarus I've owned there hasn't been much. I think you'll find that the small increase you could get would have no real impact.

this may help https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ O.

Wondering if anyone hear as messed around with one of these stand alone ecu's from reet wire. Been thinking about installing a turbo on my 93 wagon and was curious if anyone has installed and played with tuning with one of these.

Where is the location to plug in the code reader. Thanks, Larry

Have an 08 Outback, with stock 225 X 55 X 17 tires. I would like to install taller tires to gain a little more ground clearance, and with taller side walls get a smoother ride. How large can I go without causing interference with body or chassis? Thanks, Larry

email for pics. Lmdew2@gmail.com

IF someone can help with this question I can probably speed up the troubleshooting process. In the 1995 Subaru Impreza FSM (Auto trans and differential diagnostics section, page 39-40) it shows 2 connectors that need to be probed to troubleshoot the Duty C. One is the T4 and the other is the B9. I have an idea where the T4 is, but not exactly sure. I did find one connector in the back and on top of the transmission that seems like it could be the T4. The problem is that is only has 13 pins in the 16 channel connector. Not sure if that is normal, whereby the picture shows 16 pins, but in reality there's less? Secondly, the diagram shows that the B9 and T4 connector join together at some point. Looking at the diagram, does that mean that other end of the T4 connector, (where it plugs in),-- is the B9? Of should I be looking for another totally separate connector? Thanks!

ok thanks

I have been spraying cosmoline and woolwax on every surface I can access while I have my drivetrain removed and interior torn apart. The inside of my doors appears to be very rust free, even towards the bottom. Being in the rust belt, I'd like to get ahead of the rust and begin rust prevention asap. My idea was to use a 360 wand to spray woolwax into the doors with the entire power window mechanism in place. Hopefully this will do me two things, one is obviously to prevent corrosion. The second is that woolwax is also a lubricant which, in theory, means it'll get into the window mechanism and lubricate it. My windows are all slow, they work but don't intend to reinstall my A.C. components so having operating windows is a must. I want to avoid removing the glass, as according to the FSM, I also need to remove weatherstripping and I'd like to avoid breaking anything (i.e weatherstripping, glass, plastic clips, etc). Any thoughts on this? Has anyone done this before? (Spraying woolwax without removing anything from the door panel) Thanks :]

If you're lucky, there may still be a timing decal on the underside of the hood, driver's side nearer the front lip of the hood, spelling out the timing & the green connectors. My 87 GL has a lot of blow by oil getting into the IACV on the throttle body. It got stuck at 1900 RPM one day until I sprayed some wd-40 down into the valve to dissolve the excess oil. After that, it would come down to about 1100 then drop down to about 7-800 slowly, which is what it's supposed to do. My guess is that it hydro-locked with oil. I'm thinking of putting some chore girl pad in each L&R valve cover breather hose to cut down on oil mist getting into the the TBI intake boot.

Yeah I get that you want to run the auto until it’s proper dead. But you’re also wasting valuable conversion time - and when (or more importantly), where will the auto let you down again? It’s almost Russian roulette. My thoughts on the matter. If you’re keen on the auto keep at it. I’m no guru and I don’t know if this applies to just one or both autos in the MY and L Series - from reading on here common issues seem to be the pump shaft spline stripping out or the governor device on the side of the transmission under the dome bit giving issues. Cheers Bennie

Those two wires on the driver's side near the strut tower get connected when doing the timing and then disconnected for driving. RPM fluctuations often mean vacuum leaks. Double check your spark plug wires. Clean up the multiple ground connections.

I know swapping it is the ideal route, and I’ve got the whole parts wagon ready. But I think there’s still a bit more life left in this 3AT. It’s not grinding or making any weird noises. I pull out the good old service manual and run some tests this weekend.

When you go to set the ignition timing, there are 3 connectors you must connect before turning the dizzy does anything. There is the green under the dash near the ECU. Then there's the green connector and the white or black connector near the firewall in the engine bay (by the driver side strut tower). These may be a 2 prong connector but there'll be only 1 wire going to the connector. But the two connectors will be right next to each other. Make sure all 3 of these connectors are unplugged. Otherwise the car is in "learning mode" and the ECU is confused. I'm using improper terminology, I don't have my manuals nor my car in front of me at the moment. If they all are disconnected and this is a "yeah, no duh" then it may be something else. This just came to my mind first as to what may be going wrong. :]

Would love to hear from anyone who did rear brakes on 2018+ Want to know how far up Shitz Creek I'll be heading before starting out if this ordeal can be expected (or avoided.)