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And here we are as it sits tonight. Wiring harness, AC Lines, Cables, Coolant overflow lines, everything has been evacuated from the front drivers side corner. Hope to start cutting tomorrow!

I was really impressed with the condition of the radiator. Only slightly overinflated. I guess a couple cylinders may have taken on part time jobs as compressors since the head gaskets have taken a vacation. Pretty sick balloon anyway.

I've been bit. I love these little wagons. Rust killed my first one, so I bought another broken Loyale, and I'm trying to Frankenstein together the best little Loyale I can get. I was too excited to take pictures of the wagon when I first got it home, so the best I've got is this little video My wife made after I pulled it into the driveway. You can see my son and I are already at work dissasembling it... https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6i58VwuP_d/?igsh=cG9rY2IxZmZuMWg5 The car had been wrecked, but the front end on my old one is still in pretty good shape so I figured I'd just swap the body panels over and call it good, But I guess I can't do things the easy way. and now I'm cutting, welding, sanding, and repainting every spot of rust I can find on the thing. Here are some photos of the damage to the fender support and core support. Not terrible, but I will be replacing it. The battery tray has rotten away, so that's coming out as well.

So there is only 1 part I would need, the shift solenoid, would I be able to swap them over without issue?

The autos have a set of fluid activated clutch packs. If used all the time there will wear out and become ineffective. Only use it when you have to. Wet bitumen is ok - and you might find the 4wd is activated when the windscreen wipers are in use. Our ‘89 touring wagon did this. Cheers Bennie

Going on the real cheap for a nickel sized hole, there are furnace repair/sealing silicone caulks available at Home Depot good for 1000 degrees. Cost around $15 for 10 oz caulking tube. I have made some lasting repairs where welds at y junctions failed. Other areas have begun to leak but original repair is still solid 4 years later. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-10-1-fl-oz-Red-Fire-Barrier-CP-25WB-Plus-Sealant-CP25WB-10/100166701 "3M™ Fire Barrier Sealant CP 25WB+ shall be a one component, ready-to-use, gun-grade, latex-based, intumescent firestop sealant capable of expanding a minimum of three times its dried volume when exposed to temperatures above 1000°F (538°C)." Beyond 1000 degrees, ya got other problems.

That’s a great looking car for a 1986. You can, but I wouldn’t recommend it, not for any distance. It’s primarily for loose road conditions, like snow or gravel.

Hello, sorry for digging so old topic, but I recently bought 1986 3-door Leone with EA82T and automatic 3-gear gearbox. I've got 4wd auto switch on dashboard and 4wd red button on gearbox stick. Can You explain me, if I can drive the car on tarmac with 4wd in this car as with subaru AWD in newer subarus? Regards

Hey...'98 OB Automatic/4EAT had the 4.44 FDR/Final drive. Only the '96-'98 Auto EJ25D cars will match up directly - Legacy OB/GT/LSi/SUS, '98 Forester and Impreza RS. '90-'98 EJ22 (and maybe EJ18) cars will work, but you'll need the matching rear diff (3.9 and 4.11 were mixed in) and the flex plate for the TC.

i do not have a trans code for this one but maby might be known without. would a 97 impreza trans work in the 98 outback? i found a 97 impreza trans with 120,000 on it but the seller did not post the trans code with it. i did messege and ask for a picture of the code but havent heard from him yet and am just wondering if its needed.

Stafford Speedway in CT plenty of info out there , it’s the biggest meet in the country etc etc but not a lot of vintage representation. So that’s where I come in. Hope some folks can make the trip. It’s a decent event even for an older guy like myself. There’ll be plenty of shiny WRX models there but it’s a fair enough mix of all Subarus of the last 20 years - more when dinosaurs like me show up. Enjoy!

Turns out part of the "clock spring" cancels the turn signals. And the one off my 96 Impreza was either broken or different than the one on the 98 (green) Impreza. So the signals don't cancel. That part of the clock spring from the 98 cancels the signals on the 96. I'll probably just get a replacement for the 98 and swap them back. B did a little work on the exhaust hangers and breather hose on the green Impreza. B and I worked on cleaning up the wiring on the green Impreza. Planning on going to an off road park soon so we want it fairly watertight. One of the last wiring steps was to power the family band radio. I used the power and ground from the door buzzer (which got unplugged a long time ago, it normally lives right under the steering column). Spliced some wires from that part of the harness over to the radios with a couple spades. That seems to work but unfortunately it seems it, the turn signals, and the Haltech are all on the same fuse. Fine for now but I thought that fuse had only gone to the airbags. I'd like to have the Haltech on its own circuit so a short in something else doesn't kill the engine. Wiring bundled up for dash installation. Those wires on top of the Haltech might get used fairly soon so I left them out. If I ever do this again I'm not going to leave so much extra wire. It's just kind of a mess and we had a heck of a time getting the glovebox back in. This first time though I didn't really know how things were going to get routed so I didn't cut any wires in the premade loom short. Looks like a car again. A little hard to tell but the passenger airbag cover doesn't quite sit flush, I think we need to trim a rib on that. B did a good job lining up the Haltech and fusebox mount with that opening. Will probably make a different tablet mount. Still need to find a shift boot and trim for late first gen Impreza. One issue I had before we started reassembling things was that one of the injector seals was leaking. Replaced that and eventually got it to stop leaking. Unfortunately that injector seems to be somewhat clogged now. Richened it up and got the air fuel back in line for a quick drive around the block but it's still not running right. Ordered a couple injectors and seals to replace that one and have a spare. Got the cam PID tuned in fairly well. Ordered an IO expansion module from Haltech so we can wire in cruise and AC. Got some AC wiring connectors so I can make a little jumper harness to put inline with a stock EZ36 compressor so we can drive that around and see what the old CANbus is telling it to do. Still need to figure out the speedo eventually, sounds like some Dakota Digital black box is the answer there.

Thanks, glad you're enjoying it. For the first eight(ish) years of this thread they're all just saved on my personal website. The last couple years USMB hasn't been conveniently linking to them so I just upload them to the general gallery. As long as they're under 240kb it seems like you can upload as many as you want.

@pontoontodd If I may ask, your posts are always loaded with great pictures. How and where do you host them and get them to show as pictures in your threads instead of links to an off site picture on Google Drive or similar. Did you purchase more storage space at USMB? Thank you for all of your content - I enjoy following your threads.

👍 Someone here might have what you need and come forward with a solution. It has happened for me in the past. USMB is one of the best resources for our older Subarus.

I know, but since they're handmade they should be able to change the dimensions to make it fit.

It would still be custom-made, as your XT6 is an EA series whereas the Legacy is an EJ series.

XT parts might work, but they won't be much easier to find. Honestly at this point I'm considering ordering one custom, there's a company that makes custom crossmembers for EJ chassis cars...

It looks like you need manual trans cross-members from an XT6 with the Legacy center section for a bolt up solution. Perhaps an XT would work also? I'll have to dig out my old factory parts catalog to check. I wanted mine to use all factory parts, I remember that it took some time hunting around and waiting.

Just saw the edit, I don't have a welder or the welding experience to do that, but it would probably be my easiest option...

Probably. So I guess my options are to find an XT6 crossmember or to find another front crossmember that's the same width. Do you (or anyone else) know where to find either of these? The front crossmember is about 22 inches between the outer edges of each hole for the bushings.

My front cross-member pictured above (with the center holes) must have been from a 5MT XT6 then? Here is another picture showing XT and Legacy cross-members - again not my photo EJ and XT cross-members It looks like the Legacy front part is basically the same but longer. Could you cut one up and weld it back together?

No, it doesn't. The car it came from didn't have a middle piece, I think the transmission had 2 mounts (one on the front, one on the back). The rear part isn't a big problem, the crossmember I have was flat so I just drilled holes in it; the problem is the front piece because the spot where one of the holes would go is on a slope (while writing this comment I realized I may have been an idiot and had it backwards, will check later.) I know the front piece from an EJ car won't fit, but don't remember checking the width of a rear piece so I'll also check that later to see if I can use something from another car.

The middle piece is from a 93 legacy, the rear piece (XT6) can be made from a flat piece of steel. Rear part fabbed up - not my picture So, your front crossmember doesn't have the holes for the Legacy center section?