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wheel bearings have no set failure pattern.. sometimes you will get the grinding noises, other times you wont. sometimes you can get away with trying to go a bit further on one, other times they bite you in the backside - as this one did. We had a front wheel bearing on our Dodge pickup do something similar... I had taken the truck on a long trip, and just a few miles before I got home, I noticed it was starting to growl a little - not bad, but just enough to be noticed. Parts got ordered for it.. a couple of days later, we went to pickup a used motorcycle with it & the trailer - was maybe 40 miles round trip... got to where we picked up the bike, no problem, but about 2/3rds of the way home it failed completely - it totally locked up on us. Had to call a friend to come get the trailer, take it home, unload the bike, then come back with the trailer and put the truck on it & take that home. what a day!

Check the codes, because: power light flash - search on 'handshake' etc. to get the info. Or THIS> If the FWD fuse 'works' and TB goes away, it's just the clutches = Mechanical. If it doesn't - it's @ least the Duty C solenoid = Electrical.

I never had an 83... But I had older and newer. None ever had any weird effects switching in and out of 4WD on the fly. Best to switch on straightaways, as opposed to sharp curves. miss matched tires or gear ratios if a trans or rear diff was swapped with the wrong one can cause binding and difficulty switching out, and weird handling.

^^^ yep, have had 2 bad bearings. Front right on my WRX, hellish grinding noise - probably could be heard from 100 yards away by the time I got it to the shop. left rear on same car, silent, found it with an up-down rocking test, moved about 2mm, other side solid.

check sway bar endlinks, they can rattle.Check rear bushings on lower control arms. second advice above, KYB struts, other stuff if inspection warrants. best DIY, remove strut assemblies, take them and new parts to a shop and pay them to move everything over.

Moog ball joint, kyb struts , new top caps for the struts, leave the tie rods alone unless they are loose, for that matter same with the ball joint... if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Thanks for the kind words. I have some skill, she has a need. A neighbor scraps old cars. He's bringing me some subes so I can strip parts before the scrapping. That helps a lot with this project. I've helped him, he helps me. Small town. Thanks for the tips on these brakes. My manuals say very little about these.

For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!) Things replaced or checked in order Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July. Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good. Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy' Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare Checked CTS - good. Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion. My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay! After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!! Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up. As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket. Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along. Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc. Enough to drive you nuts............. Happy hunting!

Checked the steering universal joint and all is well.

Here is the ebay item # for the 770's ( 141626599902 ) $87.00 pair delivered versus $76.00 for the 642 I've installed dozens of the 642 without incident.

GC bumper on a BG5? Also notice, both of these wagons have the rain gutter visors I'm after. One dude told me they never made visors for Subarus cause they have no frame to mount to. Thats BS.

Sorry, meant it is not the drivers side in my neck of the woods. Our Australian dealers source from japan if needed. Neither part is available to us, no matter what colour or side. Sorry, you are another victim of my writing style

my first thought as well... front strut mount.

I found another picture of it. http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43345 http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=21330&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=25 There are some videos in both of those threads, but I'm not sure if any of them have the Subaru in them. Someone with more time than me will have to check 'em out. Apparently, it was entered in an off-road 4x4 competition and came in "not last". But that's also ahead of all the vehicles that didn't finish, so "not last" is actually pretty good.