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A member in HI had something similar. His Temp sensor on the coolant crossover was not plugged in. Recheck all connectors.

Probably your oil pressure sensor or your gauge is malfunctioning. Try replacing your sensor and see if that makes a difference.

CRXs aren't that hard to find, I would just hold out for a used replacement panel...

I know I've mentioned it before, but..... yes you CAN resurface your own heads. And it's not even that hard. Especially with Subaru heads because they are aluminium and very small. This time I took some pictures of the end result, the rig that does the job, and some pictures durring the process that show the progression from warped/pitted to smooth and flat. First of all - the first one I finished next to an untouched unit: A good cleaning in the parts washer, some scraping of the gasket material residue, and a spritz of bra-kleen: About 30 seconds of surfaceing. You can see where the low spots and high spots are and you can see the clear (and rather deep) groove that was created by the original HG fire ring. That groove is not acceptable. It needs to be removed so the new gasket is firmly held. The more of this groove we remove - the higher the clamp force will be on the new fire ring. Clean the paper and another 1 minute or so of circular motions on the "resurfacer". You can really see how the head is "cupped" and the center is not even touching our paper yet: Another few minutes of work: And the final result: Now they match. I will be going over both of these with a finer grit paper to finish up the surface. You don't want them too smooth though as the gasket needs some imperfection to "bite" into it. Too smooth is a bad thing - about a 320 grit is the finest finish you need on a Subaru head: Here's the simple rig used for this job. Solid workbench with a laminate top that's been scraped smooth of any imperfections and checked for general level-ness and flatness. Doesn't have to be totally perfect - that's the job of the glass. I then backed the 5/16" thick glass with a 1/2" thick section of plywood - also checked for basic flatness. The paper (wet-dry 220 for initial stock removal, and 320 for finish) is glued down with contact cement (the glass is cleaned with mineral spirits between paper changes) and the lubrication is WD-40. You have to use a lot of WD-40. You MUST use it to clean the paper as well as lubricate the sanding operation - other chemicals will break down the paper and the glue. This little rig has saved me time, money and waiting on several projects. It seems that often I am assembling engines on the weekend and the machine shop isn't open. They also want money for their services and while I don't begrudge them some business from me here and there - I prefer to trade a few minutes of my time that I would otherwise have spent driving to and fro to drop them off and pick them up simply doing this job myself. It takes about 30 minutes per head with paper cleaning, paper changes, etc. GD

Decided to go track down one for myself. Garage that is putting the clutch in my WRX let me take theirs home for a couple days. I’m busy scanning it with my phone. It will actually come out pretty good all things considering. Used to use this app for work and manuals there. Is anyone interested in a copy? It’s about 900 or so pages long and is going to be a monster .pdf i should have it mostly done tonight

Nothing. You cannot resurface the block side without complete disassembly. We use the Subaru recommended 3M "white" abrasive finger wheels to clean the block deck. If you have pitting of the fire ring surface you can fill it with metal epoxy and block sand it or leave it as is. GD

constant flash or a pattern of numbers repeated?

Get the code from the TCU and that'll help. The fact that the FWD fuse does nothing indicates the Duty C is dead, but if it was fine b4 the HG repair.......should be good now. Yeah...I always use a 2x6 or similar now, too.

If you used a jack on the trans pan....did that once (and only once)...you likely dented it and damaged a wire, etc. on the valve body inside it. In my case, I managed to break a wire. Dropped the pan, Soldered it back together, knocked out the dent, and reinstalled the pan....no more blinking.

Might be able to reinforce the backside with some 1/4" or finer mesh screen then apply your bonding epoxy. Use some clips to hold everything in place then bond it. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538053852&sr=8-3&keywords=jb+weld+for+plastic

It's 8 years later... still need help? haha

so removed front sway bars at last and its perfectly ok driving with oem struts. some more flex to front and i noticed it right away. now new thing appearing. shocks maxing out if going too fast and catching some holes in sand and such. must be careful there i guess. but VDC works even better as it gets some more flex now. finds grip better

To say they're exempt would be a mis-statement, but there are certain years that are more likely and certain years that are less likely to fail. Eventually the head gaskets will fail on any engine, the normal service life seems to be around 200 - 250k miles, which tends to be the life of the vehicle. Subaru EJ22 head gaskets tend to make it to 300k and sometimes beyond on original gaskets due to their design. Any early DOHC 2.5 known as the EJ25D, used most commonly in the Legacy Outback between 96 and 99, is almost guaranteed to have a head gasket failure by 150k miles.There are some rare cases of these where the head gaskets have lasted just as long as on any other engine. The typical failure mode on these is for coolant to leak into the combustion chamber and be burned away by the combustion of fuel and air. Generally these can be successfully repaired and the replacement gaskets will last the rest of the useable life of the car. Unfortunately, often the engine is damaged beyond repair because the head gaskets are not replaced at the first sign of failure, and the engines are driven to the point of overheating multiple times, or in some cases severe overheating, causing damage to the bearings in the engine. This results in catastrophic failure of the rod bearings, often causing rods to break and put a hole through the engine block. The second generation SOHC 2.5 used in almost everything from 1999 to 2004 is susceptible to head gasket failure, but in a different way. These typically leak externally, or towards the outside of the block. It will mean occasional drips or signs of seepage of coolant around he head gaskets on the block. This is a manageable condition through the help of a cooling system conditioner required by Subaru for use in these engines. As with the earlier design, severe overheating will cause internal damage, but the cases of severe overheating are less common because there are signs of coolant leakage that lead to the driver having the vehicle serviced before engine damage is done. Of the newer EJ25 varieties from 2005 to current it is hard to say. These have not shown signs of head gasket failure in a widespread manner, but most of them are still below the typical failure mileage. A dealer will be the best informed of how these are holding up, because that's the first place owners of newer vehicles will go when their car has a problem. But so far, they seem to be much less problematic than the earlier incarnations of the 2.5.