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Just got a working cyclops 3rd eye setup for my 83 Brat GL. Have the original switch, but missing the original relay pcb. Also don't have the original 82 grille that matches the cyclops. Purchased a set of 87a relays and have read posts here how to wire these up using the original switch. Can someone please reply with a working, known to be good spec for getting this setup working? Also would be very interested in purchasing an original cyclops front grille. Thanks!

probably a U joint in the driveline. Not the rear diff. FWIW, the diff is bolt in. Uses same internal stub connection. Began here in 95 models.

Inspect for leaks. Look carefully under the engine. Oil loss - external visible leaks or install a Subaru PCV or it’s blowing past the rings Factory installed 03s usually leak coolant externally. They start leaking very slowly at first underneath and progress slowly over a long time. You can drive them a long time (I’ve seen 100k+) by simply topping off fluids. Already replaced head gaskets (not at all unlikely) are less forgiving and have more varied failure modes. If it’s an external leak the Subaru coolant conditioner works almost 100% of the time on initial external coolant leaks of original factory head gaskets If original that belt is insanely overdue by age and miles. Install AISIN or Subaru timing kit - belt and all pulleys and tensioner and water pump. At a minimum at least replace the belt and lower toothed idler, the most common timing failure points.

So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Subaru rear diff failures are so rare that its usually a misdiagnosis. Have you confirmed it or not yet?

Try these 2 easy fixes before assuming that it's a head-gasket leak: - Tighten all clamps on the coolant-hoses (if they are adjustable). - Install a new (Subaru OEM) PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. On the EJ25 engine, the head-gasket typically leaks oil and/or coolant to the exterior of the engine. And the favored spot to see this leak is on the left-side (driver's side in US) head, near the rear of the engine and underneath. You have to get underneath the car. You're looking for the joint between the block and the head (not the joint between the head and the rocker-cover, although that might also leak). If the head-gasket is leaking, you'll see oil seeping out of that joint. If the oil-consumption is manageable, replacing the head-gasket is not urgent (but still desirable).

It will bolt in. Diff output methods will be different though. The ‘99 will most likely have stubs from the diff and the ‘04 will use driveshafts that have stubs that fit into the diff. I’m unsure if these driveshafts are 100% interchangeable. In my mind they’ll work but I’ll let someone more experienced comment on that front. You could do a diff centre swap between the two diffs to keep the correct driveshaft attachment method with the diff you want to use. Cheers Bennie

Thanks a lot for that info! BTW, I'm planning to use 18ga stranded hookup wire for this job, just got a special automotive crimping tool to get it heatshrinked together. I'll take some pics and post when it's finished up.

The motor contains the door park switch, IIRC, so once you get it wired in properly, the motor will tell the relay when to break the circuit, stopping the door.

Sold car 2 years ago. local kid bought it, hooned it, and now HG need done. :-( He texted me last month to ask what HG I used (EJ22T).

Its already happening, have dropped the replacement front fenders and bonnet off at my mates panel shop. Engine bay is almost completely stripped out ready, motor and gearbox come out today and she gets picked up at the end of the week to be delivered to the sand blasters. Have ordered the steel to make up a rotisserie to put Ruby on so she can be moved and have the underside painted as well. This was always the plan, this year was meant to be the EJ conversion year and next year was going to be the body. With me now heading back to work, I get to spend very limited time at home to be able to work on her but my mate has no problem with keeping her in his workshops for the next 12 months while body work gets done and the EJ gets transplanted so that makes my life a little easier. All the engine mounts where checked and in good working order, I did notice that nut loose on one of the engine mounts but I made sure to tighten both of those before reinstalling the engine and gearbox and have been checked since. You can definitely feel something is not right in the front end, it's almost as if a wheel bearing has collapsed but they have all been replaced less than 7,000 km ago, once I've done the complete tear down I'll investigate further and see what/if I can find anything. At the moment, its got me completely stumped and I'm out of time. Cheers, Al

I think I have the workaround so you are not left stranded. I have this exact issue that is aggravated with extreme hot and cold weather. As drivers we are conditioned to turn the key for a split second expecting the starter to kick in and start the car. That will not work if your car has this issue. Workaround. Turn the key all the way and hold it. Within 5 to 15 seconds the car will start to crank. This has worked for the past week for me.

It's a little spanner at the top but a pliers will work. Inside they are 10mm bolts.

Use brakes but also use the gears. No wear to clutch except the fork and TO bearing. Not unless you are slipping it on the downshift somehow. If you really want to teach him right, teach him how to heel and toe.......Braking lightly with toe of right foot, while using heel of right foot to apply small amount of throttle, raising RPMs as clutch is depressed, to match speed of next gear. Slide shifter into the next lower gear, let out clutch........all the while lightly braking but using the engine to do some of the work too. repaet down through second gear.........when slowed to near a stop, press clutch in and brake roll until you come to a stop........downshifting into 1st while moving is not recommended unless it's an emergency like snow or downhill muddy.

It depends on the kind of life you live and where. But for most of America, unless you plan on being a (vintage) automotive enthusiast, clutches will soon be a thing of the past. So will internal combustion propulsion. The constant torque electric motor is the way of the future and in a handful of decades the manual transmission, combustion engine powered, manually operated motor vehicle will be as outdated as the horse and carriage. Sure it's fun - but that's an enthusiast statement. The vast majority of people will not need this any more than they need to know how to saddle a horse, or hitch one to the wagon. It's an excellent skill to have right now if you plan on entering the current labor force in a capacity that requires it. Lot boy at a dealership, any position in a maintenance role, tire stores, and a host of other career paths. But for your average person - it's probably not going to spark their interest or be more than a very slight inconvenience (if even that) should they never learn. And automatics are 100% better. In all conditions. Have been for decades. The Subaru automatic is far and away superior in traction, safety, reliability, and maintenance. Manuals are relegated to a very minor role as a (percieved) performance and enthusiast transmission, or for people that need to have a whole bunch of things to do with their hands for whatever reason unknown to all including them. All that said - I do take gleeful enjoyment in driving some of my manual vehicles. Mostly because it's now fun to be one of the few that knows how to use them. But I don't kid myself into thinking they are anything more than what they are - out dated relics. GD

I cut the spades off and the excess plastic solder the wires on so far working great!!