edrach

I can only vouch for the Hitachi ignitor. It is available from Subaru, Schucks, NAPA, and most other aftermarket houses. Cheapest is to find one at Pull a Part. I used to collect them when I had mostly EA81 cars in my lot. I kept one tested spare in each of my cars then. Be sitting when you hear the price; it can run from $90 to $200 (I bought the $90 version with the shortest warrantee, but it never failed). Pull a Part ignitors are less than $5.

Save yourself the trouble; with a flashlight even an old fart like me can read the code on the lock.

I'm with you on that, Mick. I had a spare ignitor in the glove box of every EA81 we owned in the past. I still have them in the Brats. Classic symptom if it's not the fuel filter on the fuel pump.

I'm with rooster2 on checking to see if anything is binding up the blower. I lived in a rural area a few years ago and had trouble with the blower not working in any speed setting on our Brat. Pulling the blower assembly, I found that a mouse had built its nest in the fan portion; cleaned out the nest, and everything was just fine.

Did you just put it in 4WD and now it won't come out? Or have you done some recent work on it? I had my '86 wagon stuck in 4WD and found the way to get it out, was to let if drive backwards for about 20 yards (in gear), then depress the clutch and pop the lever back into 2WD.

The only keyless entry systems I know of come with an after-market alarm system. The system and the installation is not cheap. We had our Impreza done after it was stolen (yea, I know too late) for a total cost of around $350. That was 4 years ago and we've never had any trouble with it. It's a Clifford system installed by Magnolia Hi-Fi(which is pretty much out of business now). You might try pricing a system at Car Toys. Now might be a good time to buy; after Christmas might be better since business might be a bit slow in January.

The key to this (pun intended) is to have a master key made from the numbers. Usually, the original key wears more than the tumbler set. Once you have a master key made from the numbers, check it to make sure it works in all the locks including the ignition; then use it to make duplicates. Duplicates made from a working master should also work fine. Any decent locksmith will charge $2 to $8 to make a key from a working master. Before you have duplicates made, verify that they will work; if the locksmith won't guarantee his work, find another locksmith who will.

I've seen the car run and it's a screamer. Best off the line launch I've seen. This would be a great deal for someone. I'd love to buy this but just don't have the bread.

The code is on the passenger side lock tumbler. Just remove the upper door card and with a flashlight and inspection mirror you can read the code (something like W833). No need to take out the tumbler.

Check out www.books4cars.com for a hard copy FSM. They usually have everything. I have a set for the '97 Impreza (Vol. 5, 6, and 7) for $90 (plus shipping). You can match it up with the one '98 volume that books4cars have to get most everything you need.

I agree that the ignition module is likely toast. Hopefully, you have the Hitachi distributor where the ig module is relatively easy to replace. If you have a wrecking yard nearby you can pull just the module and know how to re-install it in your car.

Google Joe Spitz at Carter Subaru, Lynnwood, WA. He has that type of stuff on his website.

You're only a short drive to the Seattle area. I can think of four shops down here that I'd trust to do the work required. Figure $1500US give or take $500 depending on what they find.

Dr. RX bought a front clip for a '95 WRX. No damage to the parts since they were still attached to the body; engine came with a transmission, front dash, RHD and everything that the front end of a car will have (odometer said 77,000 km). I helped Corky pull the transmission and bought it from him. Mechanic had to modify the transmission to fit my '97 Impreza, but it's in there now and it's the best gearbox I ever had in the car. Shifts smoothly and without any crunch going into any gear. I'd do it again if the opportunity/need came up again. Of course Corky had the chance to inspect the goods before he paid for them since it was a local sale.

Here's my gen2 Brat cupholder: Follow the numbered pics in my Cup Holder album to see how it was done; sorry, no description since I did this so long ago I can't remember how. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=198

I pulled a one cup holder from another Subaru along with its mounting stuff and mounted it under the dash on the left side of the passenger compartment. It's a bit of a reach, but it works. Drop me an email address by PM and I'll send you a picture.

I discovered that not allowing the local tire shop to remount my summer/winter wheels led to a decrease in broken or cross threaded studs. Since then I do it myself or insist that they torque them to the proper amount rather than using the air gun.

You might try Smart Service; they have a shop in Shoreline and another in Mukilteo. I'm sure they could sell you the studs and might even tell you if it's something you can do yourself. Google the name to find an address and phone number. Otherwise, visit Pull a Part in Lynnwood and look for the newest Legacy in the yard. Pull the wheel, put a nut on the stud to protect the threads and hit it with a hammer to get it started. If you can work a few studs out, they're almost free for the taking. And it'll give you practice to on how to do it on your Legacy.

A decent remanufactured one should last as long a new one. General Disorder could probably confirm this but Philbin Manufacturing in Portland used to re-man distributors. Hopefully they are still in business. Good luck.

Take off the distributor cap and the ND has two rectangular black blocks along one side; the Hitachi doesn't have them. ND and Hitachi are pretty interchangeable. I only pull Hitachi distys from the junkyard since I've found them to be easier to fix than the NDs (ignitor is easier to replace). I'm pretty sure I have one if you need one. Drop me a PM.

Stop guessing about the battery, coil and disty. When it craps out, do you have spark? If not, coil or distributor (replace the internal ignitor if it's a Hitachi). If you have spark, it's a fuel issue. Besides the vapor separator in the engine compartment (looks like a fuel filter, but isn't), there's a fuel filter on the fuel pump plate located under your fuel tank. That filter is often overlooked and will behave just like you describe; i.e. often and intermittantly. If I were a betting man, I'd bet on that fuel filter. If you need a used, but known working distributor, drop me a PM.

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11225&page=17

The three local Pull a Part yards closest to Seattle charge $100 for the engine; but if you pull it with the alternator, flywheel, manifold etc., they ding you for the extras...so maybe as high as $150. Watch the cars as they come in and get a low miles car (100 to 150K) with body damage (so you know it was running when it was hit). Not a bad deal since there's a 30 day return policy if you get a really bad one (remember to keep the receipt and have them mark everything they bill you for). Last engine I got came out of a wrecked '84 Hatch which I installed on our Brat. Still running just fine after 7 years. The Nisqually Yard (non pull a part) usually charges around $350 if you "negotiate" a while. But there aren't any guarantees.

I agree with this part of Scoobywagon's comments. I run quality studless snows on a separate set of rims and have had no issues getting stuck in the snow (during last winter's problems and worse). Oddly enough, WA state law is funky on chains with an AWD car. Chains are required to be in your vehicle but not mounted on the wheels even when non-AWD cars have chains required on the car in our mountain passes. I throw a set in the back during the winter season and they've never been unpacked in the 10 years I've owned them.

Lots of places. Pull a Part yards in Arlington, Lynnwood, and Tacoma. Pick a Part yard in Olympia. Another in Spokane. Regular junkyards in Nisqually, Napavine, Ellensburg. Google is your friend.