wesley willis

yes, check the modulator. mine went, everytime the engine was under heavy load a cloud of white smoke poured out my tailpipe. embarassing. good trade though, a mercury tracer for a sube. and no, these engines were NOT noted for oil burning. maybe oil leaking, but if it is indeed burning oil, could be bad valve seals. i'm willing to put money on the modulator being bad though.

an easier thing to do would be to swap in a d/r 5spd from an ea82. i dont know about the whole adding the fwd gears to a 4spd box.

i live in a small mountain town. it is FULL of lifted chevys, fords, dodges, etc. many monster trucks here, but none of them get dirty. the toyota drivers here are different. 95% of them are muddy all the time. and i am the only subaru enthusiast here. pretty soon there will be a lifted subaru here too. theres an overly done amc eagle hatchback here too.

nice find. you could put them in my garage if you want.

i like the old school stock wheels. ugly? naw.

could be done...might not be entirely kosher, but it definately could be done.

to confirm everyone's words, yes, you probably need a new alt, or battery, or both. my alt pooped out several months back and i got a friend who fixes electric motors for a living to repair the diodes. and yes, the idiot lights glowed dimly at idle. first off they were REALLY bright, then eventually faded as time went on. i'm not positive what he fixed but the alt works fine now and the cost of a free repair beats the $110 for a new or $25 from the j/y, self pulled. battery cables could be the culprit as well. a bit of sandpaper or wire brush will clean them terminals up nicely.

i WAS gonna do the rear disc conversion on my hatch, but the only FWD car in the local junkyard with rear discs was crushed a few days ago... there is an xt in the yard that hit a deer or something, too bad its 4wd. i know...i COULD do a fwd to 4wd swap, but some rust holes are telling me otherwise. besides, next week im picking up a MINT 91 loyale with d/r for the low low price of 500 bucks. the owner complains of it misfiring...i'm leaning towards improper cam timing.

if i had an er27TT brat, it would be the sleeper hit of the century. factory paint, faded, with spots of primered over bondo rust spots. subaru steelies with centercaps, maybe a hubcap for laugh's sake. jumpseats. huge driving lights. ugly looking hoodscoop. all this to make the civic with the huge muffler driving fool's face red when you beat him flat out.

nice find! i saw a yellow 81 wagon in my small canadian island town several days back. the thing looked real rusty though. i waved, might have scared the owner but i guess that's life.

sick? not at all. there used to be a 480Z in the family, it was a good car.

the clock on my hatch works just fine.

you might not need to replace the adjusters. lack of oil pressure could cause the HLA's to stop working properly. do a search on them, there is a wealth of info on the subject.

next to the steering column under the dash. a few phillips screws removed and off comes the panel covering it. you should recognize it, as it is pretty much the only thing under the dash (black box with a red LED in it) with wires leading into it and connectors near it and the like.

with the lift you wont need to change gas tanks, which is almost a project in itself. that or beat it in with a bfh, but be gentle.

i saw a couple in a j/y with centercaps. one was an early 80's gl-10 wagon with an ea81t in it. another was a hatch. shoulda grabbed a set while i was there.

that would add nicely to my collection.

check all your vacuum hoses. there should be a diagram on the underside of your hood. it's possible that a hose may be mis-routed.

my 88 hatch has the green ones, but that's it. there's a big yellow one that doesn't seem to do anything, but i don't have the black or the white connectors either. i'm clueless, my cel keeps coming on and i don't know how to pull the codes.

! great news! maybe soon my napa will have it in stock.

my 88 hatch has them. come in handy sometimes, as my garage door is pretty narrow, even for a sube.

heh, my 3at has 150k on it, and it's only needed a new modulator. i dropped the pan and changed gasket and filter, and flushed the fluid. the thing is strong too. i offroad my 2wd hatch like any other.

my hatch's front end gradually turned from light to dark blue in the course of several months after an incident with a lifted ford ranger in the parking lot ( i wasnt in the car at the time), and an altercation with a light standard after a hot coffee spilling. i'd say it looks alright still.

expect a pile of glass and rusty metal resembling a car, then picture said glassy rusty pile running, possibly driving. this banana shall dance.

be worried once you have a loud CLUNK or two coming from your front end. by that time it's near the end for the trusty cv's anyways.