DaveT

So here's a test I'm running with front axles- I have run EA82/3AT 4WD wagons since 1988. I have had about 7 of these, so lots of spare parts. The 95AC-23 axles were used on 4WD automatics with SPFI or turbo. The CVJ and DOJ are slightly bigger OD on these. [back then I always bought used turbo axles to reboot, so I have a few of them] The later cars I've picked up had the smaller 23 spline axle shafts. Took one of my OEM 95AC-23 axles, which I had removed due to torn boot, who knows how long ago. Took apart the outer end, just a little wear / not great looking surfaces where the load of moving the car forward would be - if the axle was on the right side. The balls had a little bit of damage I could feel. Got new 18mm ball bearing balls from McMaster-Carr. put it back together, new grease, Silicon boots from Amazon, inner joint only has polished surfaces where the balls run, nothing else worse there. Installed on the left side today, since the faces that will carry the load of moving forward have little wear on them. We will see what happens over time.

The new OEM ones are something a lot better than the original factory ones.

Get the oem intake gaskets when it's convenient. Install them when you have time. I watch coolant level like a hawk, and I have had the paper ones fail quickly enough that I still ended up with blown headgaskets.

I would think twice about the wattage - Normal & legal would be 55/60. BUT the bigger problem - the wiring will not be happy with double the stock power. As far as will they fit, mine were round. But those styles were pretty standard, so they should fit in the mounts. Back when that car was new, there were 3 kinds of headlights, big round, usually 2 on a car. 4 small round or 4 small square. There were stock sealed beam type, and the H4 replaceable bulb ones. Back when I had a 4 light 1978 wagon, I made up a system using H4 lights for it. I modified the mounts, and installed 4 hi / lo lenses. Made up a wiring harness and relay box and a control panel. I could select normal mode [2 low beams/4 high beams] double low beams, lo + hi, and ALL of them, for a total of 460Watts. That was daylight. I could choose what was low on the stalk, and what was high. I also had a pair of real 55W QH fog lights on that car, and a real stereo, before boom cars were common. But I also had to build an external rectifier box for the alternator, as the internal rectifiers died. When I realized the current draw, I knew a new alternator wouldn't last long either. Way more draw than it could cough up. The existing wires and switches will be slightly over design with the 55/60 watt bulbs, but likely survive.

It is inevitable. Put in new oil, runt a few trips, replace. Anything left after that will cook off. It's 50 /50 oil / coolant you don't want to run.

Normal 4 light systems have 2 hi lo lenses and bulbs, and 2 long distance hi only lenses and bulbs.

It's anaerobic sealant, not rtv that you want. There are a couple of favored brands I've seen mentioned, I just don't recall at the moment.

Search high and low for old used OEM ones. clean re grease and re boot. A long time ago, I remember seeing people post about one aftermarket brand that was almost as good, but they stopped making them.

Wire the relay to a switch on the dash. Feed that switch from one of the power lines that is switched off when the ignition is off, like the radio feed. Hot power to relay for the lights, run a new fused wire from the+ battery terminal.

I meant wiggling - left right constantly, or fading in and out. I've had 2 causes of this. 1 is out of balance tire / slightly bent rim. Other was tread bubbled off the steel belts in the tire. This turned out to be caused by the alignment being too far off spec. Jack up a wheel, slowly turn it while watching the tread surface. Obviously, it should be steady, not changing.

Does the steering wheel wiggle varying with rolling speed?

The cracks are cosmetic. They don't go far enough to intersect a coolant passage. No effect on driving or running. Other cracks that cause leaks and problems can happen with severely overheated heads.

The re enforced o rings go in the cam tower to head joint. The head gaskets have a copper seal. This if for the oil channel to the cam towers.

I don't know that brand / kit. The OEM intake gaskets are some kind of very firm slippery stuff. Do not use or trust cardboard like gaskets there, I have had them fail and damage headgaskets more than once. It was a few years ago, I bought several sets of intake and orings from a dealer. It's worth a try for the reliability. The metal reinforced orings, I'll go searching industrial parts suppliers before I use plain orings, if the dealers don't have them.

The one I read was specifically EA82 non turbo. I don't know if there were any for the others.

The only thing I have is what is in the factory service manual. Not sure if there is anything about dealer installed. I'll have to look....

While you are getting gaskets, you want OEM intake gaskets, and the OEM re enforced o rings for the cam towers.

A small crack between the intake and exhaust valves is normal. Nearly all of them have it. All of mine have it. There was a service bullitin about it years ago.

The lights are specific to DLs. The wheel parts shold interchange with anything DL / GL / loyale 86 through 94.

The over normal temp is a sign of air in the cooling system. Every time that happens, it worsens the damage to the headgaskets. It usually slowly progresses. You might get another week, or a few months. If you check the water level before every drive. The radiator must be 100% full, and the bottle at the full mark. You need to evaluate the rare of loss. As it increases, the time you can get away with running it grows shorter. Also, this only applies to relatively short runs, 30 minured or less. Longer gives more.time to push more coolant out, causing more over normal temp, faster degredation of the headgaskets.

El Freddo covered the options. IF you check the coolant in the radiator and the tank before every drive, and top them off, you might get to drive it [short drives only.. 15-30 minutes.] for another few days to another few months. It will get worse, until it completely blows the head gaskets.

I got a pump un stuck. Didn't take as much as I thought it might, but this could vary depending on how crummy the fuel was, etc... 10,000uF charged to 15V connected to the pump with less than 2 feet of total wire. [Low resistance is part of how to get a big impulse of energy in a short time] This pump didn't run when I had tested it with straight 12V a year or so ago. Using the capacitor, I could have gone to 24, 36, or even higher. The shortness of the pulse would limit the heat to avoid burning out a winding, But the short burst of higher voltage would give it a bigger kick of torque momentarily.

The stock pumps get stuck if they are allowed to be dry. Don't have enough tourque to self free. There is no way to get at the moving parts without cutting the case open. I just had a thought. .... I'll have to try on one tomorrow. ... hit it with a pulse of higher voltage from a capacitor. There is a chance that might work.

Not if it is stock. Check voltages on both sides of all the relevant fuses. First, Che ck voltages on both sides of each fusible link. In a rectangular black thing near the coolant recovery tank.

#1 thing to keep old Subarus running without major repairs is keeping the cooling system in top condition. All of the cooling system hoses, not just the radiator and heater hoses. The radiator in good condition. Checking the coolant level in the radiator and the recovery tank frequently. All of the parts are getting harder to find. So you have to seach, scroung, collect. Mechanics who know these old ones and thier quirks well are rare. So you have to DIY or pay big. Not a great choice for a daily driver unless you have another vehicle for backup when it takes a week to find a part.