DaveT

If the left vs right pieces are literally that, the software can mirror them. The colors - a spool of the plastic costs about $25.00 That makes a fair number of parts, depending on the size of the part. But I can't afford to buy a whole slew of colors right out of the gate and only make 2 parts per color, so we have to figure out something... Not trying to make tons of $ either, There are a good selection of colors available, but of course, they are not likely to be exact to factory. I'll invest the time making the models, figuring out the tricks to get them to print reasonably well, etc. I could make test samples from [cheap] plastic I have for you test fit. PLA plastic will deform in temperatures that can occur in a car in hot sunny weather. For the lights - I'm thinking just the lens part? Or the back reflector also? Have to be 2 pieces anyway. Will one fit inside a 7" cube? Or at least sections that could be made as separate parts to be assembled? I found clear tinted plastic that looks good for lights / lenses, so those are possible also. To keep the cost of these low, I figure the buyer can do the finish work, that way you spend as much or as little time as desired for the finish desired. The lights / lenses will be interesting to figure out. When you print a part, it matters a lot which way you plan the position in the printer. The printer starts at the bottom, and prints layer by layer, The nicer finish is on the top, last layer printed. Anything that overhangs air needs consideration to make it come out even half way decent. Probably best to start with smaller things first. I have to see one to be sure, but the trim cups should be do able. I'd also like to see one of the smaller lights first, unless the shipping of all vs one makes it silly. But those will take more time. Those are my thoughts so far.

Does anyone have one of those trim cups? I need one to measure and make a model from. As long as the overall shape is correct, it doesn't need to be perfect. Sane for the lights. What color is the plastic they are made from? I've found clear abs so far. Still searching for red and amber tinted clear. I also have the same problem - I need a sample one to make a model from. Even a cracked one would work, as long as there is enough to know the important surfaces and points, etc.

Those trim cups, probably could make those. So far I hadn't had any crumble, so I didn't know they were a problem.

They do have clear filament for the printer. I'm sure it would not be window glass clear, but it would work for lights. Got to see if I can find tinted clear plastic. The handy thing about having the printer is that i don't have to make a big run of parts. Once I have a model, make parts to order.

I make the files for parts at work. So I can make models of whatever part. No, the parts don't have a finish like injection molded parts. Some of that can be done by hand after printing. I figured maybe the older generation stuff might be more of a problem to find. I'd need a sample to make a good model of a part. Wasn't expecting to make a business of it.

Just an initial idea.... Are there any that anyone needs? I have access to 3D printers. I can print ABS parts.

How bad were the overheating events? I had one that experienced a pretty bad overheat - about a gallon short on coolant. It burned oil like mad after I resealed it. I just ran old oil and cheap oil through it for the rest of it's life. Like a quart per tank of gas. The only reason I stopped running it was one of the heads eventually cracked so the coolant would leak out the exhaust port.

I re read your post... if the original oem one lasted 300k, get another oem one. Probably good for another 300k.

Based on ea82s. I've had good luck with the best quality option at napa. Iirc, they were around 50 ish. $30 sounds way to cheap for anything decent.

+1 what Gloyale wrote.

The ones I got at napa a while ago were all normal like the original ones.

My understanding is that there were 2 different ac systems. The more common I came across is with the alternator outside, close to the battery. I've considered the upgrade, but I would have to do the rest correctly, and upgrade the output wire and fusible link.

Yeah, time space and tools, or shortage of same can be troublesome. I can only go by what I've run into / done / etc. For example, I have a vacuum gauge, and know they can be used to determine a number of problems, but I never used it to verify an exhaust problem. For one reason or another, all of my EA82s at some relatively early point, I removed the 4 header bolts, and put anti seize on them, so loosening the 4 bolts for the exhaust test is simple and direct. If yours have never been touched, or haven't been in a long time, you'll want the time space and tools to deal with it. For timing, with a light, IIRC, you need to connect the single pin green test connectors. 20 BTDC Good luck, let us know what you find.

The o2 sensor is 22mm. You need a special o2 socket to remove it without cutting the wire, or an open end / box end wrench. Unless it's been recently replaced or serviced, it is likely very stuck, the special socket.might not be able to turn it. The o2 sensor is only used to fine tune the mix, once the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't be the cause of the trouble. The hole is too small to make much difference if the exhaust is partially blocked. The time I had a blocked catalytic it wouldn't get anywhere near 3000rpm, and struggled to move the car.

Way too much in one post. If the current axel/s is not making noise. You are likely better of cleaning and re greasing and installing new boots. The bearing carriers on the side of the transmission are not set by torque, they are set by an involved process detailed in a factory service manual. Not a good idea to mess with until you've seen more information, and can decide if you want to take that on. I've seen seals with the od metal. Not on Subaru wheels however. NAPA has the fully rubber coated type for both inner and outer. Oil pump o rings and micky mouse o ring and shaft seal are usually the cause of valve ticking, of its not from crud / cheap oil / neglect, etc. The o rings in the cam tower to head seam are one of the typical leak points for oil. Only use oem steel renforced ones. I do my own alignment. Fsm has the info. Won't effect pulling to one side, that's usually a dragging brake or something else. Alignment is only toe in, and effects tire wear and handling. .

There is a vacuum port on the passenger side of the intake. It connects to the EGR solenoid, HVAC canister, etc. My test for exhaust blockage is to loosen the 4 nuts on the header pipes, and leave a gap of about 1/2" It will be loud, but if it runs right, there's your answer. If it runs the same, it's not the exhaust. Depending on age, you may end up needing new studs and gaskets though. Those studs and nuts should be kept from seizing with compound made for the purpose. If they have never been removed, they might be stuck / end up stripping.

Low level of gear lube in the diff won't bog it down. It will eventually ruin the gears and pinion shaft bearings.

how far away from Connecticut are you? I wouldn't mind having a 3AT. The cars look pretty decent, rust wise, but I have no place to store one long term, and the 2 I run now are in very low rust condition.

Those o rings, you remove the timing belts, the valve covers, the cam towers. they are in between the heads and the cam towers.

Yep, those o rings could contribute. By now, if they are original, they aren't very good. Need to use the metal re enforced kind, not plain o rings. Oil pressure at idle with a warm engine is near zero. Really around 5 psi, but the dash gauge doesn't read low numbers accurately. I run Amsoil 10w synthetic. With their filters. Not sure if this had much to do with it, but I don't have much trouble with the ticking. I've resealed a few ea82s, and it takes a while before the tick stays away. But a year, hmmm. Should be pretty much gone by now.

There is at least 1 regular o ring involved with rebuilding the oil pump, in addition to the shaft seal, and the micky mouse one.

When the code is a tive, you don't need to connect anything. If it's intermittent, the memory connection will show those. Check the CTS. With an ohm meter, and the table in the fsm. It is the 2 wire sensor on the lower thermostat housing.

kero is slow, safe solvent. Gaskets, I usually just use one of those single edge razor blade scrapers.

Not sure what part you are referring to. The one on the driveshaft? When does the sound happen? Does it relate to engine RPM or ground speed?

While testing / troubleshooting, 12V is ok. Once you get it running, try putting it back to stock. The stock control has the safety controls to shut it down if there is an accident, etc. Hook up the timing light as per it's instructions. Usually, there is a jumper and or a vacuum line to connect / disconnect - this varies by the exact engine and fuel system it has, best to check a service manual that covers what you have. If you replaced the belts, it should be timed very close to where it was before they were replaced. I stopped bothering to worry about it, it's that close. As long as you didn't pull the distributor, and got the marks positioned correctly, it should just fire right back up.