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moosens

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Everything posted by moosens

  1. Great story! yes , get it going. Plenty of advice will pour forth from our wonderful group here. Naturally you’re dropping the fuel tank and blowing out the lines , reverse polarity to the pump and flush it , all that cool stuff. Start hunting more of those valve/rocker cover gaskets, you’re going to need those for sure. NOS getting harder to find. Hoping to see the progress. Good luck !
  2. As I’m doing this , like most of the way done I’m realizing I’m totally hijacking your thread. Very sorry. That’s the one I have out and actually keep in a box ready to make it get going. It’s by no means perfect but was fairly low miles. It’s still had the decal from shipping !!! That’s like as rare of a decal as I’ve seen. Anyways , one guy is going back n forth but seems committed. I do have at least one more. Gotta fly talk soon.
  3. Blow it out from front to tank.But not into the tank , right ? Put a strainer on it. And whatever GD told you.
  4. Casual observance from a long time Parts monger. Subaru got more strict with retention and purge of stock. Ordering dealers to destroy or damage parts before going into a dumpster. That was all in line with the 80’s boom and them no longer needing mom n pop shops who got their foothold for them. At that point it became way more corporate controlled, at least directed. Plenty of guys back doored some parts into their person possessions, but not nearly enough to generate a healthy New Old Stock base like we enjoy , somewhat , with our 1970’s stock. No where near the number of 80’s genuine stock out there comparatively per vehicles like the 70’s. And going forward it pretty much bites. I wish I had spent even more time at my local dealer when they were purging early 90’s Legacy/Impreza Parts. I was lucky enough to be let into the 30 yarder to sift out whatever I could on at least one occasion. But that’s about where it ends for scoring early 90’s parts cheap or better. Story over for now. Enjoy ! And good luck.
  5. Thanks for the education. I seem to recall some knucklehead doing that with the low FWD.
  6. Ok well forget about what I said , eh !! Subafreak had my 78 single range opened up and he seemed to breeze through it. So my mistake if the older 1600 S/R is way more simple. Going further off the deep end , I do have new shifter forks in varied sizes. But those are all likely for the 70’s Good luck with it!
  7. There’s a seller on eBay lately who has a lot of new old stock from a former dealership and it seems this seller has a lot of 80’s parts. I will try to add the name as I think of it. Location is Ohio. North Royalton or something like that. I suggest you try to contact this seller and any others you see with NOS from the 80’s and ask about the synchros. Try to know your part number as I see this seller doesn’t have as much reference material as myself. My 70’s NOS has some synchros. If they are the same I’ll do my best to dig them out. Problem is I just packed up everything thinking I had a buyer for my lot. When I get back to my manuals I’ll see what info I can offer for part number and possibilities of a 70’s 1600 being the same. Since you’re going this far you would be doing yourself a favor by hunting down whatever you can for that transmission. Don’t accept “discontinued” or can’t find that , keep looking. I’m confident you’ll come up with many of the seals and shims etc you’ll need to have it done right. Don’t forget shifter rattle (bushings).
  8. Some of us may have them. I know I just went through a miscellaneous nuts n bolts box to help fill out a flat rate shipping to one of us and I’m pretty sure I have some from various years and models. But looking at them I couldn’t pinpoint which goes to what. So if you can add a pic with measurements. Two are long and four are shorter. You know that. Or maybe I don’t know , geez might be the opposite. Brain fart. Best to use penetrant and heat , turn IN just a touch and then out , spray , heat , repeat over n over little at a time working it out. And of course you’re going to find being on the east coast that oxidation has chalked up the entire stem , threads look like hell and no way are you using it again and likely (certainly) have to deal with the holes. Some of us go to heli coils , others like me go to a Timesert or equivalent. Especially if you expect to carry forward long term. Find your favorite kit and go at it. Good luck. Drills , easy-outs , you’ll get there. Many of us have suffered the same. Just like 18 years ago or so.
  9. Gen one seems a mystery ! Tried to find it in the FSM and can’t at this time.
  10. Pardon my lack of rotation on those. Can’t see how but anyways those are form a Brat-MPV supplement for factory parts manuals. Let me know if I failed and I’ll see what else there is for you.
  11. Thanks ! Kind of figured the EJ22 version would be pretty much as you described. But I really know zip about these later models, which to me would be anything after ‘05.
  12. And this from a guy who avoids turbos. So forgetting EA cars , which later models have you experienced high mileage with minimal repairs on ? This is simple curiosity and I am currently not in the market. Guys like me are generally too cheap or are paying too much elsewhere to put out for a real muscular Subaru. Takes decades sometimes for technology to trickle down to this poor boy. But if there’s an era where they gave us a more reliable turbo engine please post your evidence ! Cheers!
  13. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171195-mustache-bar-bushings/
  14. Yes I just posted the GEN ONE brat pages from the parts manual. They are the same and called stoppers. That is if I read your post correctly.
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