moosens

Ok well forget about what I said , eh !! Subafreak had my 78 single range opened up and he seemed to breeze through it. So my mistake if the older 1600 S/R is way more simple. Going further off the deep end , I do have new shifter forks in varied sizes. But those are all likely for the 70’s Good luck with it!

There’s a seller on eBay lately who has a lot of new old stock from a former dealership and it seems this seller has a lot of 80’s parts. I will try to add the name as I think of it. Location is Ohio. North Royalton or something like that. I suggest you try to contact this seller and any others you see with NOS from the 80’s and ask about the synchros. Try to know your part number as I see this seller doesn’t have as much reference material as myself. My 70’s NOS has some synchros. If they are the same I’ll do my best to dig them out. Problem is I just packed up everything thinking I had a buyer for my lot. When I get back to my manuals I’ll see what info I can offer for part number and possibilities of a 70’s 1600 being the same. Since you’re going this far you would be doing yourself a favor by hunting down whatever you can for that transmission. Don’t accept “discontinued” or can’t find that , keep looking. I’m confident you’ll come up with many of the seals and shims etc you’ll need to have it done right. Don’t forget shifter rattle (bushings).

Some of us may have them. I know I just went through a miscellaneous nuts n bolts box to help fill out a flat rate shipping to one of us and I’m pretty sure I have some from various years and models. But looking at them I couldn’t pinpoint which goes to what. So if you can add a pic with measurements. Two are long and four are shorter. You know that. Or maybe I don’t know , geez might be the opposite. Brain fart. Best to use penetrant and heat , turn IN just a touch and then out , spray , heat , repeat over n over little at a time working it out. And of course you’re going to find being on the east coast that oxidation has chalked up the entire stem , threads look like hell and no way are you using it again and likely (certainly) have to deal with the holes. Some of us go to heli coils , others like me go to a Timesert or equivalent. Especially if you expect to carry forward long term. Find your favorite kit and go at it. Good luck. Drills , easy-outs , you’ll get there. Many of us have suffered the same. Just like 18 years ago or so.

Thanks again ! Late model - phooey !!!

Gen one seems a mystery ! Tried to find it in the FSM and can’t at this time.

And this is a gen two not gen one.

Pardon my lack of rotation on those. Can’t see how but anyways those are form a Brat-MPV supplement for factory parts manuals. Let me know if I failed and I’ll see what else there is for you.

Thanks ! Kind of figured the EJ22 version would be pretty much as you described. But I really know zip about these later models, which to me would be anything after ‘05.

And this from a guy who avoids turbos. So forgetting EA cars , which later models have you experienced high mileage with minimal repairs on ? This is simple curiosity and I am currently not in the market. Guys like me are generally too cheap or are paying too much elsewhere to put out for a real muscular Subaru. Takes decades sometimes for technology to trickle down to this poor boy. But if there’s an era where they gave us a more reliable turbo engine please post your evidence ! Cheers!

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171195-mustache-bar-bushings/

Yes I just posted the GEN ONE brat pages from the parts manual. They are the same and called stoppers. That is if I read your post correctly.

This lot is one heck of a deal. I don’t understand why this is taking so long. Now I’ve taken my postings down. Cancelled a bid and removed all Subaru vintage parts auctions. There’s NO DEPOSIT on my stash if anyone else is interested.

It’s up in the air now. Had thought I had the right guy. Need to pay rent so let me know what you need and I’ll do my best. Hot and sticky out now. Not my favorite time of year.

That engine I would love to see still operating. The 1300 boxer was said to be the most fuel efficient of all combustion engines at that time. It was a workhorse type engine like the 1600 and the EJ22 but they bored it out and made the walls too thin as a 1400 and way more head issues occurred. Wet liner engines , not the easiest to maintain. It would be interesting to see some young person step forward and learn these engines. Given a choice the 1300 is best of the 1000(non USA) 1100 1300 and 1400 wet sleeve engines. Very very few folks are still pushing their 1300 around. And I can only think of one in the USA. A few 1400’s for sure. Hoping it lives. Good luck !

This is the one (both sides) to check.

Going forward I’d be concerned with the bracket unit which handles this whole bar and diff. Put a good eye to those as you have the unit down.

Inside those flat disks with their crowns are the sleeved bushings. Need 4 of those bushings for mustache bar and lateral bracket. Note the same crowned disks are on the ends of the diff. mount bracket. So you will need 8 of those to do a complete job. 8 disks 4 bushings original p/n for “stopper” aka the crowned disk is 6220 10001 and the bushings p/n 6220 04020 Maybe be worth hunting. I know most likely they’re going to be out but you never know. I see you’re up north. Back when my local was way past keeping that old stock I would have them use a west coast or other regional distributor and often I would score.

Last call , going into overall sale if I don’t hear from someone with an automatic. Does not work on wagons.

If the body is solid it’s worth getting going. I agree although I don’t know your skill level , with doing it yourself. For now. And hopefully you’re the only cat this car needs to purr. Lots of drama about the Hitachi but many are fine to go forward with. There’s several issues that can occur , or not. Best to remove , soak , and using forced air clean it out with no metal , maybe you know this stuff ?? And then a fresh carb kit. They’re around $20ish on eBay. Don’t be afraid to get most any brand. You’re not going to find a factory kit , some may hoard them but virtually don’t see them. They’re pretty much about all the same kit. Watch your float level through the sight glass on the drivers side of the carb. You’ll likely need to adjust or at least clean the heck out of the float bowl chamber. Get a factory service manual. There’s several on eBay now that apply. You can use any of those thick manuals from October 1977 through 79 for sure. They’re all the same animal. Very little to note at all. Your 79 is the first year of all States getting electronic ignition. No points ! Enjoy that. If trouble starting breath and relax. Take note of the alternator and the signal it sends to the voltage regulator and to the fuel pump. That catches lots of folks off guard. Its all got to be harmonious or it will start and die out in a few seconds. See that happening , read this all again. They recommend replacing the VR and Alt at the same time. But several folks say that doesn’t have to happen. Check each component or have them checked. No matter how solid or where you live there’s a couple spots to note for debris accumulating and causing rust-into pinhole rot , etc if in worse climate. One spot is way down under the cowl which sits in front of the front windshield. Take that off and clean up the corners. Use good light from inside and look for pinholes or any holes. Wheel aprons are notorious in salty road places. Lower firewall too. Pull the lower bolts off the fender tails and rinse out and crap with a hose. Open the front doors and you’ll see. Typical build us spot often causes that lower tail of the fender to rot. And then the body where it mates up at the sill. Rear - check brake lines , and body generally all around the tank and suspension especially where it bolts to the unibody. Fuse block has a tendency to get super hot , even catch fire on the bottom two fuses , maybe bottom three. Headlight fuses. You’ll read about it. Shifters rattle - find the bushings , little white polypropylene or similar. Not too easy to find but they’re out there. Hopefully guys are copying those and other parts now. And there’s a sort of Seat bushing on that shifter , for lack of proper name , and that sits on the tranny and takes an effort to do but also worth it if you’re really wanting to get every little itch scratched. Also a seal there atop the trans which leaks so find that. It’s small. Which brings me to the Factory Parts Manual. A few guys like me will have them. I think you may be able to find online. If so , DO IT !! Exploded views are SO helpful. You’re going to have a blast and show them up ! And way before September. Enjoy !