moosens

Cheap and effective. Good man ! Enjoy your time here. Anywhere near Boone ?

Just move on and be thankful she gave you all she did. Sounds like a nice $500 beater for the next guy , which is really nonexistent these days so let’s say it’s a $1500 beater. Hope that doesn’t hurt your feelings. I don’t need it but my friend has a 2005 if it comes to ever dumping it off. I know you won’t be parting it out. You retired guys need reliable cars to get to your golf games and lunches with your friends.

Automatic 4WD starts in the second generation. Then everyone who could drive slowly wanted 4WD. And the world became a more boring place. Let’s hear about this 79 from Santa Cruise!

Right on ! Yes , the trend is to go over to FB but it’s really not for me. I do go there to try to help and sell parts. You post a question and get snarky replies and off topic nonsense or branch off into people making sales , etc... Enjoy !

Also , nobody ever seems to give a rats tail these days but you may choose to add a post in the “Wish List” thread once you’ve gone over it.

Here’s some more info. Start up at the cowl in front of the windshield. Remove that and look down and see the pine needles , leaves , dirt , all in a nice 40 year old salad. That’s where the pinholes start the rust - water into the front interior floor sometimes - and always rot down below at the lower portion of the firewall and also the wheel apron. You’ll likely also see the front wheels have kicked enough to cause holes in the apron but being where you are maybe none of this applies. Do inspect. “ is the windshield cracked? because you're not finding another one! and if you do, they go for $300+ just for the glrump roast, plus shipping, plus installation. “ I have windshields and probably a couple others at least also have them. Currently I’m asking around $200 mostly because of the labor and materials involved in shipping. The gasket is indeed available and you can actually install it yourself. Easy ! Just have to be sure all the metal around the window is rust free and ready to accept a fresh gasket. (Currently I have a Coupe windshield on eBay for $300 but that is super special and way more rare) Ok so yes they are super reliable just don’t forget to shift gears on the highway. That’s how I managed to kill a perfectly good same engine. I was in third and having a blast then €@%~¥!!!!! Someone calculated I was probably doing 7-8k revs ! Be smart , have your coffee before doing what I did. Change oil as you should , can adjust valves yourself , you’ll need valve rocker cover gaskets , and start looking for oil pumps or reseal kits. Subarasaurus there are no automatic 4WD wagons or anything 4WD back then. It’s a manual and your shifter will likely rattle. Look for the bushings. I am stepping aside from ownership for a while as I turn to my motorcycles before I get too old. But you’ll see my stuff on eBay and the face book groups etc. “cashingmystuffin” that’s me on eBay. Best of luck. You’ll be fine and you’re really going to love it. Enjoy !

You still a Justy owner ? Seen a good amount of NOS lately. Couple of parts cars in Norwalk CT a guy keeps posting. Minor resurgence ! Lol

Feel good about it man ! Enjoy ! Think protection once you’ve made your repairs. Good luck with it.

Enjoy ! Two headlights or four ? Curious what your 92 came with.

No sweat. Enjoy your time !

Not ok

With the old school seats it was easiest to swap material onto your old drivers seat. Cut one hole for the handle and you’ll have one hole exposed but nobody can see it.

#1 Not as reliable as you can have. Somewhat notorious. Overheating , headgaskets , turbo issues and heat causing other issues like axles I think. Good old honest EJ is your man for the job. To me , if going EA82 I would go simple as in SPFI but that’s based on my roadgoing experiences and minimal off-roading. #2 Various but for sure remember it’s a closed loop system for air/fuel so leaks especially around the throttle body will/can cause light smoke to near black smoke. Heat often destroys that axle it sits over/next to. #3 MPFI #4 Enjoy the project !!

Hey there ! Spot any oldie Subies up there in the high n dry ? M and Welcome , of course

I have an 89 manual. Getting exhausted so I’m not sure what I can do. Pics too large , I’m needing sleep soon. But hey I’ve got something happening. Going to try to add to FB USMB group

Sometimes even a new oil pump or fresh reseal and you still don’t quite get full pressure up to that last HLA in the flow line. Rev it up for 20 seconds or so nice n high without being crazy.

You’re in TX still ? Just had a radiator or two in my hands at storage. Trying to get there today, maybe an hour from now and then I’ll try to get them out. One of those items I tucked deep back so depending on energy level I can’t promise. Stuff need to get to people though so I’m inspired mentally. It’s the old bones resistant to the cause. What’s one worth these days ? There should be one I got from an old school radiator shop in New Haven CT around 15 years ago or more. They totally cooked it and tested and painted it glossy black. Fairly certain there’s a nice low miles used one there too. Likely from the 76 GF old lady car I had with 57k on it and super well kept by her husband. Talk soon, Paul

Sold

I should apologize. It wasn’t the ADF guys it was Alied Armaments I was referring to. Yeah , Scott has been alongside the USMB so long it’s pretty much a given we older folks are going to point to him first.

Still haven’t found the manuals. Maybe have some little wedges to support the skin as you go alone from one end to the other releasing the clips and stuffing a wedge in there to keep it from seating itself back in ?

If he doesn’t come through I know I just rediscovered some at my storage.

Haven’t seen that manual yet.

Sounds like maybe a perfect parts car. That is if free or dirt cheap. Body repair on these up north in the salt/rust zone can be time consuming and if paying someone very expensive well beyond the value. Solution is to get a nice solid body from out west. Pay the transport , it’s worth it , and several of us have done it. Budget would be happier over trying to repair that body. Maybe get the car you mention and use it as a practice run and then parts car for your future solid body. Have fun learning it and making it run well. Then you’ll have experience and extra parts like a carburetor, engine , transmission , etc As great of a project this is with dad we wouldn’t want you to hit a dead end and be discouraged. As of Sunday I had four starters laid out while trying to sort out and clean up storage. Guys like me are out there with excessive spares. So don’t worry too much when it looks like you can’t find some part. Meanwhile , check the usual places for a solid body. Washington , Oregon , Idaho , Montana , Nevada , NM , CA , those states will yield the most.

This isn’t that expensive brown wagon is it ? Parts , most folks will tell you it’s an uphill battle. But there’s parts out there. Some more difficult to locate than others. What sort of parts are needed to get it going ? 79 is electronic distributor, so no fiddling under the distributor cap. To me , if it’s all there , not rotted away , and not a complete mouse nest , AND cheap enough then I would be all over it. But I’m older and have been around these cars since they were new. Maybe your dad too ? Assuming it’s been sitting a while so you’ll want a carb kit which there are some out there. Around $15-30 on eBay and such. If you’re not pumping fuel it could well be the alternator and/or voltage regulator. Both can still be found. Alt - $25-50 V/R -$10-25 Can’t recall which year all USA went to internal regulators but if a CA vehicle it may well be so equipped. Those should make it run. Float bowl of carb - clean really well and thru sight glass on left side of carb check float level. Carbs are best soaked if you can. Don’t want to carry on if dad knows most of this stuff. But I’ll try to help with costs of parts. When I have a little more time I’ll add more info.