john in KY

Sears sells a small kit of special sockets designed for this problem. Sort of "easy out" sockets. They only grip turned one way and once they bit, they really hold. Wife or someone bought a set for me years ago and have only had 2 or 3 times when I needed them. I could send a photo if I can again find your email address. John

A malfunctioning AFM and/or an exhaust leak before the turbo can produce this problem. Another thing could be a restricted exhaust as in a clogged CAt or a baffle inside the muffler is flopping around.

Try WD-40.

Did it years ago with a Dodge Colt. Takes 2 people. Hinges at the top and probably a wire or two needs disconnected. Guessing all you need is a 12mm socket. It's somewhat heavy and awkward so remember, 2 people .

The TPS has an adjustment range. Adjusted too far one way and the shifts occur at higher rpms and are hard. Too far the other way and the shifts are mushy. I think the TPS is either loose or out of adjustment or both.

Sounds like an oil pump failure. Mostly likely will be cheaper to just replace this engine with another.

Probably didn't fully seat the input shaft. Often it hangs up 1/4 inch from being fully seated. If the car still moves in gear than that means you haven't destroyed the transmission pump. As for the noise, are the TC bolts tight? Noise seems to me just about has to TC related.

Anyone out there ever install that SAT radio receiver kit? Just attempted it and think I have a problem. The SAT receiver has what looks like an antenna port but I can't find an antenna wire anywhere. My question is does the Outback with the SAT radio have a second antenna wire to plug into the SAT receiver? Edit: Problems identified and resolved. Radio sounds great.

Take a look at the steering rack. My 95 also started to pull to the right and also developed that low speed shake. The problem turned out to be a "blown" rack.

100% it is an air intake air leak. Most likely one of the many smaller hoses is still disconnected.

All I know is in 1985 the MPFI had a ground wire on the manifold. The injectors won't fire unless this wire was grounded. Recall it used one of the intake manifold bolts on the passenger side.

Experiencing the exact same symptoms on a recent 1500 mile trip. Got home and the steering wheel "wobble" became more pronounced. Did an inspection under the car and noticed the right side of the rack was coming apart. Replaced the rack and problem solved. 1995 Legacy with almost 300K miles.

Could the problem be defective brake pads as in not level across their faces?

Pull the cap, crank the engine and note if the rotor turns. No turn means broken timing belt. Also, grab the rotor, engine not being cranked, and see if you can spin it on its shaft.

Problem here is the spark from the center terminal is not getting to the spark plug terminals. Only thing i can think of is the rotor is not turning with the rest of the distributor.

Is there a fusible link/fuse associated with the ignition system?

The coil bracket must be grounded to the body. May want to check for that.

Almost sure the timing needs to be 22 BTDC and has to be set with the green test connectors connected.

Blown fusible link indicates a short in the wiring somewhere. That clicking sound you hear is most likely a relay. Which one, I don't know. Maybe if you start pulling fuses one at a time, that could pinpoint which circuit the clicking relay is on. Electrical problems can be an easy fix but often are a very expensive experience. Unless the asking price for the car is very low, I'd walk from this problem.

Suspect a broken timing belt

Make sure you installed the belts correctly. On the 85 model there is a ground wire attached to the right side of the intake manifold. Has to be there for the injectors to fire. Just to test for a ground problem, use a test light. Probe one of the injectors and crank the engine. If the engine fires, the problem is a bad ground somewhere.

Sounds like a great deal.

No.

Fairly sure there is no starter relay. The older models didn't use one. Anyways, get a 4-pole relay. Use the wire currently connected to that small spade on the solenoid to "trigger" the relay. Run a fairly large wire from the battery, through the relay, and then to that small spade. Your problem I believe is the starter solenoid isn't getting enough current to energize probably due to increased resistance in the circuit. I've used this modification many times on older models and solved the no0start problem every time.

100k is correct. Make damn sure when you replace the filter you also remove the gasket. Changed the filter in my 08 Bean and didn't notice the original gasket remained in the housing. Blew out a couple of days later. What a mess.