chef_tim

Hey yohy, does your FSM have a detail of the brakes showing the clips and their possitions. The end clips are easy but in the kit there are two smaller clips I can't figure out. They could be extras, but I'd like to know for sure. If you could put that up it would be great. Thanks, Tim

Okay, so there I was smoking crack............ Yep, hub is behind the rotor. I'm sure glad I didn't try and have the studs pressed through the holes in the rotor . Please forgive me, this is only the second time doing brakes on an EJ car. Later and thanks, Tim

My Hatch with 28" Swampers and a CCR built motor with a Weber carb gets 16-18. 20% difference in the speedo/odo figured in Tim

Not sure what Ru your diagram is for but, the 97 Outback has the hub and rotor as a single piece. It would be easy to swap hubs, unfortunately not in this case. Later, Tim

Does anyone have a part number for lug studs on a 97 Outback??? The Dorman parts book shows 601-410 (might be backwards on the 0s and 1s, dyslexic:-p !!). I got new rotors from the dealer and of course, no studs:rolleyes: . I'm going to have the old ones pressed out and pressed back into the new rotors but just had to know what the correct stud was. Thanks, tim

Place to start...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89549

Okay, I'll play:banana: Love those SVXs'

I ordered calipers and rotors today from the dealership . I rebuilt the calipers last year, but the passenger side is sticking again so I figure just spend the real money and be done with it for a long time. Got so hot the lugnuts sizzled when I spit on them (my hillbilly version of an inferred thermometer). I really hope the wheel bearings survived the . I think I'm going to go with ceramic pads, and I'll also replace the rubber lines. Good luck with yours Ben, I'll let you know how mine turn out. Tim PS just noticed I was in the Ol'school section. I'm doing my 97 OB wagon but last year I did the rear caliper, pads and rotors on the 87 wagon for about $180. Not to bad considering the rotors and calipers alone for the OB are $350!!

Thanks for all the good words. I had to drop off some paper work at the dealer today so I got a final look at "Ruby". All the typical windscreen writing on it; "one owner", "only 10K miles", etc. The Outback is a nice car and the main thing is that my wife really likes it. Later, Tim

Take a look at the Goodyear Assurance triple tread. They are one of the best rated tyres on the Tire rack site. When I'm ready for tyres that's what i'll be getting and we have 9 monthes of winter here Later, Tim

Well it is done, we went ahead and traded in our WRX for a new Outback. I'm gonna miss that little red rocket. But the new Outback is a nice car and far more practical. Vicky actually did the deal while I was TDY in MT. Probably better that wasy, as I don't know if I could have gone through with the trade. Well, with out any further adue, here it is............. Enjoy, Tim

I used 1" x 2" (I thnk), steel stock and with a bit of persuation it fit very nicely into the chanels. I then drilled out the original mounting holes and ran 5/8ths" (again, I think) bolts all the way through. I think the car would be pulled in half before the bumper pulled out. Just an example if you decide to go all the way with your bumper. Later, Tim

Just got your PM, glad to see you got an answer. Tim

Won't be able to make the party, but we wish you the happiest of birthdays and a great retirement :banana: . T&V W

http://www.ireport.com/docs/DOC-31190?ref=feeds%2Foncnn :( :( :(

Mick, If the car was for me, I'd be first in line!!!! 360, turbo is no longer an issue, we need to have an efficient, cost effective vehicle. (yes I know, not the most E/E but it has other benefits). I'm doing the deal long distance, my dealership is over-nighting the paper work to the dealer here in Helena MT, then I'm going to send it back (prepaid, overnight). I think they gave me a good deal, and most importain is Vicky is really excited about "her" new car :headbang: Later, Tim

I go 15,000 miles on synthy oil with a filter change and top off every 5,000 miles. Your wasting money if you change it out every 5000 miles, might as well go with dino oil at that rate. Just my .02, Tim

Yeah, I really have, some times it just helps to see it in writeing (seeing the writeing on the wall??) And hearing from a few commen sense friends. Here's another reason, not really having to worry about where to park. Sure i don't want door dings in any new car but I think it would be easier to take with an Outback. We're going in today to talk to them, if the dealer is open. Thanks all, Tim PS I've got my last two speeding tickets in our 97 Outback never even a second look from cops in the San Remo red WRX :-p

I am really torn on this. I love my WRX like nothing else, but in the two years we have had it we have put 10k on it. It was never intended to be a daily driver, but a toy. We were going to pay it off and then get a new Outback, but I have come to the realization that an Outback is a far more usefull car for us, that and my wife really deserves a new car. I see that I am using "but" an awefull lot in this thread. I just filled up the WRX and it cost me $55:eek: , and I don't see that getting better any time soon. With a new Outback we can get the dogs in, go camping and just have a very reliable daily driver, and a little better milage on cheaper fuel. I would also move up into our 97 Outback which gets better milage and is much more comfortable then my 86 lifted hatch. It just killes me to think that I could be giving up a "once in a life time" car, 'cause once it's gone I'll never be able to find another 06/07 WRX with that kind of miles that hasn't been beat to death. Sorry for the book, I'll add cliff notes Cliff notes: chef tim should trade in his WRX but is torn over it. Thanks for listening, Tim

If you go so far as to R&R the radiator, you might as well replace the water pump too. Cheap insurance and alot easier to do with the rad out of the way. Later, Tim

Have you checked the U-joints in the drive shaft??? Tim

Sorry Tom, but that is MT, not MI :lol:

Don't forget to throw reman vs new in to the equation too. I use LUK brand clutches in mine. They are new, come as a full kit... Disk, PP, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and as a bonus the pilot tool. Usually about $200 Later, Tim

Anyone?? Anyone?? Heading out on Tuesday. Tim

Already put it in the "Subarus in Movies" thread :-p Tim