subiemech85

if it is crest brown, I could use the bumpers! no need for a jack how didyou do the 6 lug conversion?

while you are employed, buy the parts and tools to fix it while you are collecting unemployment, rebuild the engine until then, replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets. easy 1/2 hr "in frame" job, especially if you use a gear wrench carb reseal can be done in a LONG day

leave the needle clip ON, it is more important than you think!! I don't care what the fuel level spec is in the instructions, and measuring it is too damn hard, 18mm to what to set fuel level bend tab that needle contacts fuel level is set to the beveled area about 1/2 way up you will see where it transitions from narrow to "slightly" wider on the back wall by the hinge, IIRC set the fuel level to this point, then install gasket and 2 screws to see if fuel runs out! BTDT lats saturday!! also, it is not necessary to have a hollow bolt, a solid one will do just fine the seat did not want to come out

so, let me either make it either clear or confusing!! will axles from a FWD 5spd carter/weber ea81 work for a 4wd AT ea81t ????? if so, if not,

seems good to me

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48297&highlight=winterforce

spend a day cleaning ALL GROUNDS!!!!!!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26766&highlight=GROUNDS alternator swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=789193&highlight=common#post789193 grounds E & G do NOT apply add to list for WAGON under coil bracket, behind fuel filler door side taillight access panel

issues went away after cleaning ALL COMMON GROUNDS replied for "closure"

they are different part # 21110AA waterpump 050 EA71 060 EA81

gas smell = signal to re-seal carb huge increase in performance for $20 engine gasket set $150- what "safety" issues are you pondering? crest brown metallic, got pics????? KEEP IT!!

so, what is the new recipe? maybe http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94121&highlight=clutch will be updated with new results

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14547&highlight=gear+ratio http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95125

this is the version of the first song I like better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiidNcUEIfo added your video to my playlist and here is the only video I have posted if you look through my playlists, you may start to understand me a little bit more, there are probably over 200!! username there is same here and as there clutch will be soon

VLSD is free until excessive slip causes lockup LSD is locked until excessive torque differential forces clutch to slip I'm still by your first paragraph the RX didn't have all that much to begin with the ea82t will last if treated right, which rarely happens clutch LSD is much better for SNOW RX also mazda rotary RX is only an options package LSD is another option you are WRONG it is only an OPTION for the early ones,that was only available if RX option package was selected, probably still an OPTION for the later RX ones also also look out for converted unmarked LSD only the ignorant call ft4wd awd, which makes me AWD auto can have fuse put in holder to "convert" , although it is designed to be temporary you are completely wrong about the EARLY RX SEDAN LSD was only an OPTION they are well worh the $$$$ in the SNOW!!! only on here are we addicted to LSD, and advertise needing to get a fix http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94506&highlight=option http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25227&highlight=rear+lsd http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94716&highlight=options all of this could have been avoided by SEARCHING

I come from the school of thought: tear everything apart, stick it all in one big box, small parts in a bag so they don't fall out of the cracks in the box, clean everything really well, and reassemble the 1,000 piece puzzle you just created I find it easier to memorize the firing order if you need help with keeping track, http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_management/wire_markers/

"I'm an rump roast!" GD sums it up:D flatlander here also, compression barking works even if it's for the next stoplight on level road heck, it even works on a vw diesel with less than 50 hp

1. length, diameter, thread pitch! at this point I'm tempted to screw in a standard bolt held in place with removable thread locker don't need to be exact, going to hardware store to get what's close will need to know dimensions by friday 12 pm cst I am at my week house, and will be travelling back to the weekend house with heated garage where the car and carb is 2. this hitachi has been serving me quite well, runs smooth, ...... just about every BS emissions control has been done away with as part of the swap only issue was smell of gas in cabin while driving coming from slow leaks due to bad gaskets the walker kit with paper gaskets and good rubber boot for the accelerator pump is better than the old leaky cork gasket and rotten boot just need to run this engine until the ea82t is ready to go back in, hence no spfi or weber the carb has been doing just fine, even starts good at -20f with block heater and no choke or pumping ea81 engine with ea82 intake and carb to replace ea82t as a temporary engine until the ea82t is ready to go in, bought car with ea82t that suffered water in cooling system that froze, cracked block, and popped freeze plugs in heads

look at what my friend SEARCH found http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92462&highlight=brembo

no!

still looking for dimensions of the hollow bolt! did not mess with needle and seat

either it works or it doesn't instant liftkit, just push button

add to the list of things that make the tach go wild bad alternator diodes bad dist., even after the hitachi module is replaced

IMPORT a RHD seat

some of us have gotten pretty good at playing the "diagnose my subaru issue" guessing game good to let us know the details!

could also be a rusted tank and plugged system do you have pressure? will it idle as long as you don't touch anything????