subiemech85

snake oil !!

after a few years it is mostly worn off and looks like crap also fades terribly rhinoline it and be done http://rhinoliningsindustrial.com/products/chemicals/hardline?/22/32

fuel runs out when carb is assembled, what't the trick to put it together so it doesn't happen? how is the float position measured correctly, or method that works to ajust so it works? when carb top is turned upside down without rest of carb attached, the float holds down the needle and no fuel flows, works like it should there seems to be something that makes the carb and decide to torture me every time I try to assemble and test installed modified solid bolt m6x1x45 end edit the whole process went fairly well except for the moment of truth turn on fuel pump and gas pours out of uncapped port below fuel supply inlet and between cast iron and aluminum pieces the HOLLOW screw that runs from bottom of cast iron base up into the aluminum bowl block, head twisted off :-\ what is the dimensions of this screw, length and diameter??? fairly sure something was not right with the needle and seat

check the oil and hammer down

don't bother with the SPFI pump, it is not built for the pressure MPFI TURBO requires fuel pump pressures and flow SPFI 38 - 50 psi max relief valve setting, 80 L / 21.1 gpm @ 21 psi the pressure regulator adjusts the fuel pressure to 21 psi compared to the intake manifold pressure standard 20 - 24 psi p. 17 section 2-7 p. 3 section 2-8 '90 loyale fsm pub. G148BE

unless they were updated

remove bellhousing and wrist pins read the manual

fuzzy memory did you look in the typical subaru fuel pump hiding spot, infront of right rear tire?? for the underhood pump, is there 3 hoses, 1 on top and 2 bottom side in v shape? wix http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=33201 or only 2 hoses http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=33089 and if it is truly inline http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=33002

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EA_engine is the link that should have started this thread and so we don't leave out the justy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EF_engine notice the ea72

Anyway, I drove some 100k in rwd only, could I have done any damage? NO

http://www.robinamerica.com/pfeatures.aspx?pid=49 I have the http://www.robinamerica.com/pfeatures.aspx?pid=48 on my blower http://www.hobuk.co.uk/acatalog/BHX2500.html bought at big orange toy store for $200 about the same time I bought the miller welder it is by far the best blower I have ever used partial hijack

yes, I have 2 portable welders miller bluestar 180k 0-180A DC 24V and 5KW 120 / 240v AC 60hz http://www.buysellcommunity.com/sale/PMRUSQOJ lincoln pro-core 100 30-100A http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=14344 for me it's the best of both worlds just combine with a good auto-darkening helmet as long as I can get there, I can weld it, even in the middle of nowhere

ea81 with side mount starter bellhousing ea81

GDL http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=5 pop off the door panel and lube the moving componets, including window motor gears and tracks lube hinges it penetrates well, doesn't attract dust, is clear, and almost no smell with temps of -20f all works smooth and quiet

No!!!

ECG 54 NPN-Si AF Power Amp case to-220 fig. T41 hopefully the one in the link from digikey will work for you, based on a search and just enough knowledge to be dangerous please chech and confirm before ordering assuming this is the digidash for gen 2 http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=2N3442GOS-ND

the right combination of baling wire and duck tape can fix alot, also apply lots of despair and lack of money and a pinch of boredom, etc and stuff will get fixed, my secret recipe

a gen 2 rad will fit after you remove the top steel rail, most seem to be somewhat loose and just take a bit of heat from a propane torch to soften the solder so that it can pop off easily after the rad is in position, secure it with some soft wire on the top side, one wire around hose fitting, and one wire around filler cap the filler cap can take a bit of skill to remove and reinstall, but it is possible, even with a lever vent type connect the overflow tube to the overflow outlet, and fill to the bottom of "level plate" inside rad. end tank the hoses alone seem to do a good job of keeping the rad in position a flex hose may be needed for the bottom to go from rad to water pump pipe works even better when you have ea81 engine with ea82 intake and carb all mated together

so, what is the calorie count for shoveling out the offending snow drift, especially when you try to keep driving and end up getting high centered?? yes I am skinny 5'6" 120 lbs have been that way for many years sadly I wear 30x30 pants so long that the waist seems to stretch after a few years and loose shape, recently had to switch over to 28x28 just to find some that fit must be the "new styles" :-\

I hate that "feature" self locking doors

nice to have a plane black panel, see attached link http://brandendesign.com/images/gl/GL_dash_3893.jpg

seems like just weekend before last I replaced the foam seals of the air box clamps, and last weekend installed working resistor pack and rear wing think about the air flow of the system: fresh air enters the system at the cowl, goes down to the blower motor, across the condensor, and then runs into the temp control door, if COLD is selected, air goes up the ductwork box behind the radio bypassing the heater core!, but if HOT is selected the air goes through the heater core and then to it's destination, so when the door is less than 100% either way, a BLEND is created if RECIRC is selected, the air from passenger footwell is sucked up into the air box above the blower motor, and on down the stream it goes if there are any leaks, passenger gets the cold air blown at their feet I used wide gap pvc closed cell foam gray 3/8 x 1/2 x 10ft item # 204 Dennis http://www.wjdennis-rcr.com/pdf/weatherstripping/foam_tapes.pdf the large clamp was easy to remove with the box is position I removed the air box that holds the blower motor and the air box that holds the AC evaporator to repalce the seals the evaporator had accumulated alot of crud and leaves, and is now sitting with the rest of the AC lines and parts in storage all "gaskets" were deteriorated or non-existant there is a "gasket" between the body and air box that holds blower motor, remove under panel, glovebox, glovebox brace, fresh air duct, etc. to access once AC evaporator lines are disconnected, and clamps loosened, it is possible to remove the AC condensor air box to remove the last clamp remove all of the old "gaskets", then apply new foam, sticky side down to metal when installing the foam, you will need to apply a strip to each 1/2 of the clamp, the CL is quite obvious

I knew there would be a use for the info I typed http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=786797&highlight=fuel+pump#post786797 fuel pump pressures and flow carb 2.6 - 3.3 psi 38L / 10 gmp mpfi 61 - 71 psi max relief valve setting, 95L / 25.1 gpm @ 43.4 psi the pressure regulator adjusts the fuel pressure to 36.3 psi compared to the intake manifold pressure pressure engine at idle 26 - 30 psi pressure with pump on and engine off 37 psi pressure with pump off and engine off 33 psi '85 fsm spfi is approx. 20 psi to get you home, find a pump with atleast 30 psi and 1/2" fittings if possible

just to clarify: is this the digidash? seems that trunk lock is also a stupid light tinkerbell is easy to get rid of

mystic jt-8 15w50 and purolator filter mmo not necessary fuel filter life depends on quality of fuel, not miles replace when plugged