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subiemech85

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Everything posted by subiemech85

  1. my dirtiest job ever was midwest mud fest, midwest meet II second dirtiest job was washing it after a week of driving to let most of it fall off the "dirty job" is tackled with 200* water @ 3000 psi
  2. sounds fine to me I did test drive one once, and like to rev scan from '87 fsm
  3. MAF senosr the engine would die when the intake pipe would come disconnected, and would not start it acted like it wanted to go, but couldn't , similar to running out of gas it might start when you disconnect the maf senosr, and should idle worse, BTDT
  4. Been There Done That canister on side opposite battery, round, black, has 3-4lines going to it you need to plug the small line, and leave the others open, IIRC IIRC = If I Recall Correctly
  5. BTDT california emissions removed canister light rarely came on when light did come on, unplugged computer WHILE DRIVING !!!!!
  6. for both ea81 and ea82, remove the 8mm square head plug the thread is 1/8-28 BSPT BRITISH STANDARD, not metric 1/8-27 is NPT NATIONAL, it will work for a while to put the 27 in the 28
  7. ecs = check engine led on = rich led off = lean red led = ea81 green led = ea82 for "U-CHECK" mode, do NOT connect connectors for "D-CHECK" mode, connect GREEN connectors if you are in "D-CHECK" mode, the ecs or check engine light will blink you MUST be in "D-CHECK" mode to set timing you Must be in "U-CHECK" mode to read present codes
  8. cool! can I get a couple good pics of the alt. mount bracket?? I'm with the "panasonic"
  9. my 1.6d does not sound like the hla problem add enough atf to bring the oil level to the top hole on the stick
  10. take a look at this: http://www.vwcaddyforum.com/pictures/caddyeng11.jpg
  11. FWIW my '85 d/r 3.9 wagon did run at the same speed and rpm as my '89 rx 3.7 d/r does. suberdave, I would trade you the '85 d/r 3.9 from the wagon that I put in the brat for your 3.7 d/r with diflock or I know of an '86 d/r 3.9 in a local j/y and yes, the gears are different between '85 and '86
  12. for "U-CHECK" mode, do NOT connect connectors for "D-CHECK" mode, connect GREEN connectors if you are in "D-CHECK" mode, the ecs or check engine light will blink you MUST be in "D-CHECK" mode to set timing
  13. " Is an EQUAL length Y-pipe possible" what a silly question :-p all you would have to do is use your imagination
  14. both coil and alternator popped into my head when I read the title also bring speaker wire, BFH, oil, oil filter, coolant, ca$h, luck
  15. you might be in luck because your ea81 has an automatic trans, which usually had the engine that did not require valve adjustments but to make the atf in the engine work, it will take more than a couple of minutes of idling try driving 1/2 hour at 4k then change oil to a good 15w40, castrol tection works good for me, and a purolator filter -- got rid of the tod for me
  16. don't bother with flushing your oil system with mmo or whatever, it only applies to ea82 you need to adjust the valves, they are mechanical, do it in firing order, there have been several postings about this also a good time to replace the valve cover gaskets, I'm sure they are leaking
  17. for head gasket sealant use hylomar ... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/471729/8 and for some discussion ... http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2960&sid=3377132eef16abd43c1e36d9ef51186b
  18. take a BFH = long dledgehammer and beat on the tire of course, make sure all the nust are off
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