subiemech85

I only have experience with the '85 ea82 d/r it was the best combo for showing off in the parking lot, both forward and reverse and driving on the hiway :cool: when the traffic sped up or slowed down, I just shifted ranges

seems to me that you need a convertible conversion kit sure is good YOUR body did so well eyesore, empty your PM BOX

2870A is bigger, the one I used came from autozone, rubber texture, red

it's your computer crap, you don't need it to run do yourself a favor and disconnect it below the steering column

YOU SHOULD HAVE SEARCHED!!!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27068&highlight=COOLANT+HEATER BAR'S LEAK is one of the WORST things to add, shame on YOU!! If you would have removed the RADIATIOR WTIH THE FAN, the fan with the radiator would have fit back in after the coolant heater is installed, and this would have made the removal / installation easier an OVER-RATED IMPACT and a 8"extension and a cornwall 14mm worked nicely

no, no, no, no, that's all wrong, it is designed to go between 4wd and 2wd while moving without using the clutch, "shift on the fly" when you want to shift between 4wd hi and 4wd LOW, you MUST clutch, unless you are stopped and the engine is off TIP: if you can not shoft between 2wd and 4wd, becaue there is a horrible grinding syncromesh sound, and when in 2wd you hear a grinding and when in 4wd, the noise goes away, you may have blown a rear axle, btdt

in grass down hill in reverse, park brake set works

remove a side step, both rear shocks, and 1/2 of each rear wheelwel, and it should run like a champ! , and it will be willing to run and start easily even when it's in the teens for temp

all can be done by SCREWING, NO PRESS

change the fuel filters, then check the oil, then allow to warm up thoroughly, then FLOOR IT for a MINUTE MINIMUM, sure does blow the crap out if it can't do 7,000 rpm, you've got problems

even better, use the REAL thing http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT291_pg30.htm I used it and had no problem MUST have a GOOD air supply

consider it a chance to change the brake fluid, or use a hose pincher, or 2 coins and vice grips go for it !!!!!

drill you need torque go to a place with "free air" and change the fitting to suit yours go to a place with "free air" and fill up your air tank try an electric impact get

I once had a caliper that "would not move" I MADE IT MOVE!! take caliper off car, place in wood pallet use the "cube" 6" extension, and 1/2" dr air impact wrench in forward cw rotation this allowed me to press down firmly and turn at the same time worked great!

oil filter, crankshaft pulley seal, oil pump

LAST I knew they are solid bumpers, no covers

What I did remove rad cap remove rad cock drain plug remove lower rad hose remove upper rad hose remove temp sender wire remove rad use 3/4" drive impact, air tool, the 1/2" did nothing use 14mm hex bit from cornwall tools, $8, it fits, snapon, $24, is too long make sure gasket is on heater install, 34mm? socket install and route cord enjoy if you have extra cord, loop it around the passing lamp BTDT

Did I hear someone wants a brat?? see one pic here .. http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo65/a0019_15a?full=1 McBrat, keep quiet on this one

grind to fit torque sounds good

1. go by what real idle speed is, and what "indicated" idle speed is 2. use a non contact optical tach 3. use a contact mechanical tach :cool:

sounds good to me I have noticed that when I am flogging it, crop circles, cruise at 5,000 rpm, the exhaust temp warms up and burns off all the accumulated oil

use a torque wrench, 150 ftlbs the cone washer and spring washer may be bad or in the wrong way

I would call that a mild frist stage of bending I've got worse

run them naked

check the fuses and look for the evil greenies while you're at it, check the grounds