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subiemech85

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Everything posted by subiemech85

  1. input shaft is connected to torque converter which is bolted to flexplate shift selector rod is what u are asking about y did not want to work for ^
  2. either red book for gen 2 or brown book for gen 3
  3. they are 2.83 from subarugenuineparts local $tealer $aid 8
  4. this issue has been covered and would have been found by SEARCH http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48380&highlight=knock+sensor
  5. there may be a vac. operated device that pulls a lever on the carb to increase engine speed
  6. not subaru, but canvas topper : http://vwcaddyforum.com/showthread.php?t=7327 and there are more pics in brochures in the http://vwcaddyforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=52 , especially the french brochures
  7. if you're complaning about GAS mileage , think of FUEL economy of a small EFFICIENT DIESEL 16 or 20 mpg in rx vs. 45 mpg in vw pickup if you need more encouragement to get the subarus, just think that you could be the horse of
  8. I read p. 1 then skipped to "reply" quit your bellyachin and remove the exhaust manifold, clean up the ports, install new studs, gaskets and nuts my rx currently has no studs in the heads :-p
  9. with both test mode and read memory connectors connected, idle speed should be set to 800 +/- 50 with test mode connectors connected, ignition timing should be set to 5 degrees +/- 2 degrees below 1000 rpm "NEXT TIME ASK TO SEE THE D-CKECK REFERENCE BOOKLET" I have one and have been using it for all info provided got ? ask!
  10. the vw pickup is still made in south africa AFAIK and hauls, bigger box than a ranger http://vwcaddyforum.com/index.php? http://www.vwcaddyforum.com/pictures/caddyeng11.jpg
  11. you can also get to them with needle nose vise grips
  12. the connecors are between the hood release cable and the ecm towards the fender side of the clutch pedal the read memory connector has a LgW wire in pin 21 of the 22 pin harness the test mode connector has a GW wire in pin 22 of the 22 pin harness
  13. ate your wires or it could be subaru's common ground system
  14. I'm confused! since when does the crossmembers need to be changed if going from ea81 d/r to ea82 d/r
  15. you may be able to adapt a vw low coolant warning system, ex. '85 diesel and wire it in with the key dinger should be in new gen
  16. reminds me of the time the fuel shutoff solenoid wire came loose trying to accelerate, cuts out, push in clutch, put go pedal down engine catches, rev up let up on clutch, good to go and it was my diesel!
  17. SPFI or MPFI????? IF SPFI, wires # 19 power (output) 20 signal (reference) 21 signal (position) code 11 = crank angle sensor (No reference pulse) IF MPFI, wires # 7 (power) 8 (reference)
  18. seems like there are several posts that mention the coolant lines should be re-routed but that is it where should they be re-routed? here's my guess: turbo out to heater core in trubo in to heater core out BTW: pex t fittings work great as adapters, etx. I recently installed a fuel heater in the vw tapping into the heater core circuit
  19. and I thought you were talking about the ea82 2 piece driveshaft front driveshaft varies rear dirveshaft constant is there going to be a trans swap?
  20. vac. leak BTDT: I had a BIG vac. leak, idle adjust screw came out your leak may be smaller or it could be an exhaust leak
  21. use the gasket as a template for when you make the block off plate I used a piece of mower blade engine should be able to run without anything covering the hole gives it a different sound, low power, major vac. leak
  22. which kind of glycol? ethylene or propylene don't drink drinkable I have had good luck with NAPA superstat thermostats and gaskets
  23. if none of those would work, you could go hydro or ecvt my favorite is a 5spd!

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