MilesFox

try some heat and pb blaster. you can also insert a screwdriver between the caliper wndow and the rotor vents to hold the whole works still. the easiest thing to do would be to loosen the nut with the wheel still bolted to the hub and all the weight of the car on the wheel, brake set, in gear. you just may need a good 4 ft long pipe to slip over your breaker bar.

could be a water pump leak or an intake manifold leak. the water pump will leak out of the weep hole behind the pulley or the water pipe o-ring where it goes in the side of the pump. usually these leaks run down the front of the engine and drip off the exhaust. an intake leak will puddle up on the top of the block in one of the spark plug holes and drain out the back of the head. i would suspect these 2 ideas before going into cracked heads. can we see your pics?

NGK wires and plugs are the oem replacement

napa will be better about parts availablility. i'll bet that was the factory original timing belt, which usually holds out till about 140,000 miles before they let go, with my experiences. do the cam and crank seal while you are there. a new water pump will be the single most important part for the longevity of the engine(cooling system)

you can pull the rear axles, and leave the diff and driveshaft isntalled. the diff and driveshaft will remain stationary so long as the car is in FWD, and there are no rear axles turning it.

the green plugs are for setting the disty timing. leave them unplugged for the moment. the white connectors are for clearing the codes. leave both sets unplugged and run the car. the led should be functioning then.

make sure the axle nut is torqued and staked properly, since it hods the wheel bearing assembly together. usually sounds like that are associated with failed bearings.

these motors can be tricky to bleed the air out of. try fulling the block from the upper hose to get some coolant in the block, and unscrew the little bleeder on the radiator. you may have to add coolant in the bleeder when the car is running. run the car til the radiator becomes warm, and also the lower hose. once the lower hose is warm, the thermostat has opened, and you can continue to fill in the radiator. if you are afraid the heater core may be clogged, try reversing the lines to backflush it. hope this hepls you. it is possible to overheat during the fill procedure, so be careful. there needs to be enough volume of coolant for the temp gauge to read it. if the coolant is too low, there will be a steam pocket as the block gets hot, but the gauge will read cold. overall, a dry engine will take on about 2 gallons of coolant

just pull the whole motor, it will be much easier. do both head gaskets, put motor back in. its relatively easy to do if you go about it the right way the motor will sit nice in a 5 gal bucket or a milk crate, or on a work bench squared up with 4x4 wood blocks. the trick is to unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember and jack up the tranny so the motor clears the frame. this will give you better access around the framerails.

i put the smooth side against the head. you can get studs in the 'HELP!" brand from autozone, either a pair of studs, or 3 studs and 2 bolts in the 'gm/toyota(corolla, geo) set. sometimes the threads dont want to hold torque. its best to thread in a stud first, and then the nut. this way the torque is squeezed up by the nut instead of the threads in the head.

Helmholtz snorkus

i forgot about s-k, i used to have a 1/4-3/8 dr set. i guess i got too used to harbor freight lately. when i worked at u-haul we had k-d tools, very similar to s-k, real nice

135,000 miles, fresh head gaskets and engine seals. I may part my car in the fuuture, and if so, what would a good engine be worth? with or without harness, or running still in the shell of the car, to be taken away with the car?

change the coolant temperature sensor. plugs and wires will only result in the same driveability you have now. the CTS is going to play a huge role in the overall engine manegement.

its a direct bolt in if you have all the parts. along withthe trans itself, you will need its crossmember, the body bolts for it, the driveshaft(its a different lenght than the AT, and of course, the flywheel and its bolts. the 5spd dual range is a 3.9 gear. check your rear diff for the gearing on the sticker. if its 3.9 also, you can use it. there is no mods to the shifter hole. the shifter boot fits in the same holes as the shifter mountf or the AT pretty simple to do. it will be easier to install the trans if you remove the motor first, swap trans, and reinstall motor. take this chance to do engine seals

try giving the cam sensor a wiggle. i had this problem and that is what i had to do to get it to start. i had a 95 that had trouble starting, and i suspected the engine temp sensor. cam sensor or engine temp sensor, i bet.

my roommate just did the same repair. he re-soldered the connections and was good to go. that is the trick as it has been documented

put a jack under the transmission to raise the motor up out of the crossmemer. do the same when you reinsall the motor. use a pry bar and gently wiggle the motor away, if you already have a gap. a putty knife and a flat screwdriver work to start a gap to gey your bar in there.

check the wore to the oil sender, it runs down along the dipstick tube and plugs into the oil pump. its possible the wire came off. check the ground wire on the water pipe by the battery. the big one goes to the fender, and the small one plugs into a clip near the coil there is also a ground wire on one of the intake bolts on the manifold for the engine harness.

an ea82 5spd will bolt in if you ise the flywheel, driveshaft. the ea81 crossmember will mount on the ea82 trans. you will have to fabricate a mount for the carrier bearing. an ea82 engine will fit. you can modify the disty by flipping the gear and making longer wires to run it in an ea82 engine, and the ea81 carb manifold will fit on an ea82 motor if you eliminate the egr valve. you can swap in an ea82 carb motor using its intake and disty, just connect everything. the disty may interfere withthe master cylinder, its easier to install the motor fitst, then the disty. you might have to cut off one of the mounting tabs and clock the disty over and set the rotor and move so that the #3 wire is #1. i have swapped several ea82's into ea81's, its mostly a direct swap.

harbor freight is good for buying cheap socket sets. they are as good or better than cheap 20 dollar 'mechanics tool set' that you find at wal mart. cheap sockets get by just good, and are good for the price, easy to replace. spend your money on a good RATCHET, since chap ratchets are annoying to use. use 1/4 drive on small bolts such as on the fender, and 10mm bolts on the motor(t-belts, oil pump, etc) use 3/8 drive for most of the other bolts, 12 and 14mm. use 1/2 dr for suspension bolts 17 and 19mm dont forget open end/box wrench, sometimes a good ol wrench is easier than a ratchet. 8mm thru 22mm offset box wrenches are great for pulling engines, 12mm for the flex plate bolts, 14mm for the bellhousing, 22mm for turning the crank if you get gear wrenches(ratcheting) 10mm is great for clutch fan and valve covers. 14mm is great for the bellhousing you could buy this whole assortment at harbor freight for within 100 bucks. you are better off with smaller tool sets vs one big set in a case. the big sets are too east yo bump into and knock all the sockets out of their places, and its tedious to keep organized. individual sets in a case are ideal, such as your 3/8 tools in one set, 1/4 in another set, metrics or standards in their own sets. having a case makes it easy to see what tool you have out by which ones are missing from the case, makes it easier to not misplace tools. ea81/2 axle nuts are 36mm, ej cars are 32mm

at first i was like "oh, no carbon fiber" But it looks good, excellent workaround the body work on the hood. the blue scoop looks good against it. great job. mad skills with the shifter console:headbang:

earlier 2.2s from 90-96 models are the more reliable ones. leter models 2.5's often had head gasket issues around 150,000 miles if you want something relaiable and go from 85 hp to 135 then a normal ej22 would be the most practical and reliable option you can make the swap work with the 4spd trans for now, and then upgrade to a 5spd trans and carryover any bellhousing adapters to it the easiest way around having to make a bellhousing is to use an ej motor and its trans, but youwill have to modify driveshaft and trans mounts. you might be able to find a 5spd legacy or impreza for cheap, since having a complete donor car for a swap is the way to go vs sourcing parts individually

virgin...

bleed the line at the wheel cylinder by undoing the line. i have done it this way to work around a broken bleeder. its not 100% but definately better tnan no brakes. if your car is manual transmssion, hold down the clutch so fluid can move through thte hill holder to the rear.