MilesFox

i have a hard time finding 185-70's every where i go. they ar4e either out of stock or they dont have a complete sset or pair. ask for used tires as they may be more available. seems like the 13 will be extinct with 16 and 17 inch wheels these days...

imagine parking your car in the garage for a few days and when you get it out there is a cat with kittens that appeared since then(locked in the car). happened to me. i just put them in a box whre the car was parked

put some bolts thru some of the crucial points, like where the tailgate meets the sides and the top with some brackets, the bolts will help thension things together. welts can crack. i would trust my own welts but i would tie in bolts wherever i can as well, welds do crack if they dont go deep enough

if you find a gen 2 ea71 (fat case engine) from a 1600 dl hatch or standard hatch (1983-4 or newer) they have the ea71 block that matches ea81 physiucal dimensions, if you find this motor you can swap on your old bellhousing to fit on the new motor.

looks to me to kelp mix up the gases with air, but then again, it reminds me of a balance pipe on a dual exhaust, the gases and air would probably reverberate in this passage, pulsing type forces, and hence the check valve on the pcv to keep the gases moving in one direction. it may be there for whatever gases would otherwise pass thru to the atmospehere(emissions control)

if the shaft was a sliding yoke then yhat would work. on the subaru and specific to its suspension geometry the axle changes length through out its arc hence the DOJ joint to allow for this

the pcv is designed to cause a draft acoss the engine by introdicing air in one side and fumes out the other. the valve controls the flow of the gases in one diretion, otherwise the same gas would pulse in and out but not circulate(as you describe) the hoses will be on one side will let in fresh air from the air filter, the ther side will connect to the pcv valve itself

just swap on the window crank itself. none of it is reiveted in like some ford, its all 10mm bolts. you can change the mechanisn without removing the glass. once you get the door panel off it's starign at you.

i ended up with an 87 gl wagon from the ba/be rally (http://www.baberally.com) the dudes who gave it up had it registered in new hampshire with no title(older than 10 or 15 years) supposedly in wisconsin i can title it with a hand written bill of sale. in indiana you have to have a police VIN affidavit for out of state cars even with title

tou may as well pul lthe steering wheel and center it. the steering with therack and tie rods has not changed, so this willbe ok when i changed my front crossmember from a fwd sedan to a 4wd wagon one, my steering wheel was upside down. this is due to where the pinch bolt fits with the notch on the shafts. i just need to flip the wheel 180

all you really need are the belts. the tensioners are not necessary unless they are sqaualling or you just want to be that particular or spend the money, especially in a land where rust does not exist. here is what you do: eliminate the timing belt covers ant run the belts totally exposed. keeps oil and crap out of them, and the next time you have to change the belts(and tensioners) it will only take 20 minutes. if that sounds scary search for "open belts" for many anecdotals pro or con also makes easy access for future repairs like oil pump seals and what-not

i meant guy wires, like what you see holding utility poles in place, that is wat they do. the idea is to stabilize the platform. its not a stupid idea. i am more or less suggesting ideas based on the fact that i install hitches all day and put on coil springs, towed subarus with subarus and am knowledgeable with towing systems. 300 lbs is not necessarily overloading a subaru

this is not true for EA82 models. this only applies to ea81's the ea82 gas tank has the indentation for the doff already as it is.

what you are contemplating to build is what i am driving right now. my 88 gl sedan that looks like an 86 gl-10 had a 5spd dual range conversion, which is right now rear drivey wit no front axle. tou will have to invent a mount for the driveshaft bearing and drill holes and supply long bolts to mount the rear diff hanger.other than that, its all bolt-on 5spd on the floor, PRNDL on the dash

i think the car would be good for it structurally in the body. the motor wouldnt mind the rpms but if it has old timing belts or an old radiator it would get hot. the trailing arms bend easy but a bent car will still go. i would say the front suspension would still function so long as the ball joints stay intact.

how about no-lenght headers? the motor will still sound the same with no Y-pipe at all, open ports, but more like a misfire and running underwater. the valves and the siamese ports make a blip-blurp sound as the firing order fires both piston on the same bank almost simultaneously alternately. that is why blown exhaust gaskets sound like a misfire or the car has a harley type sound to it.

the brake lines converge in front of the gas tank at a proportioning block and then finally up through a grommet under the rear seat. from there it runs internally along the rocker panel to the firewall along with the fuel lines

you have to bring the top of the strut in as you lift 7mm to every inch of lift. its not that the lower control arm remains too short, its the fact that the top is farther out in proportion compared to the height of the lift, making a wider angle.

seafoam is not bad but change the oil within 100 miles or a few days to drain aout any crap that loosens up.

you would have to bring hte strut tops inward, have some offset with the strut top lift block. i read the proportion is 7mm inward for every inch.

the headlights are live all the time and ground through the switch. try the parking light curcuit. you may have to make a relay that creates a ground before the swithc for that to work. same as with the horn

if you get around to taking the axle off its easier to replace the boot. good time to get at the wheel bearin if need be. it will last for a while my sedan has no boot for over 10,000 miles and seen baja'n and 2 winters. you could do the bag to prolong it. if you continue on shove some greas in it now and again

paint the center of the raised portion where it tapers down to the grille. paint it with a satin black like the old mopar color. follow the contours of hte hood and that will look good! it will set off the trim around the doors and the tonneau cover

the hitch for a gen 2 legacy ties in with thru-bolt on one of the factory tow hooks, and bolts ino twhere the other tow hook bolts onto generally tongue weight is 10 percent of the rated capacity. so in theory that would allow 350 lbs. although the hitch is likely stamped with a 300 lb tongue weight. i wouldnt worry about the extra 5 pounds. there would not be a 2 inch receiver available for this car, but there are adapters. but the adapters will increase the leverage on the setup if anything you oculd try to beef up the rear suspension with coil boosters or helper springs if you hitch is from u-haul the warranty will replace it even if damaged from overloading really the way to go wold be to tuy in some guy wires or something similar to supprt the weight of the hitch-haul platform to somewhere off the back of the top of the car

there is also the rubber line that goes to the brake booster under the plenum. check that