MilesFox

yes you can change the turbo motor out and put in a carbureted motor. example, i boutght an 87 gl-10 turbo with the motor in the trunk, torn apart. i put in a carbureted motor just the same to use carb motor the motor mount and bellhousing fit the same. if the new motor has a flywheel or clutch you can install the torque converter with the parts from the old motor the distributor will connect to the coil, black wire to + and yellow wire to - leave the other wires connected to the coil as they are, nothing has to be removed from the old system the coil will work with the carb mechanical distributor, and the tachometer on the dash will work the same when using the carb motor you must change fuel pump, as the one in the car is too much pressure and will leak past the carb, you can install a fuel pump with less pressure, and connect it to the ignition circuit, and ground it to the body you may connect the lloe pressure fuel pump under the hood near the filter, and it will dwaw throug the old pump still on the car since there is no turbo you can re-use your exhaust pipes or use one that comes with a carbureted motor(y-pipe)

anything of 85-87 ea82 with carb will work. just hook 'em to the coil

was this some grandma car, having only 25,000 miles and short trips to church and the grocery store? tellus a little more about the car, what tranny it has and what were the circumstanced of it having such lo miles and being for sale, the people you got it from or why they sold it

its not gonna explode. it took 7000 miles for the diff in my car to fall out after the pinion seal went bad, after the u joint broke some 3000 miles earlier. when it did let go it proke off its bolt mount from the vibration, dragging the ground. i took it out and took the axles off at the doj cups, since the pins were seized and i was 50 miles from home coming back 300 miles, tossed it in the trunk, and drove another 200 miles before i chopped the other end of the axles off with an angle grinder because for some reason they were cv ends instead of doj ends......you'll be fine!

wheels straigth when engaging/disengaging 4wd. only use 4wd on surfces with 10% wheel slippage, such as sand, gravel, ice, snow, mud, HEAVY rain you can engage the 4wd at any speed

the one in the sig or the avatar? the avatar is a .gif i did shrink it down unlessit remained the same file size. i'll try to fix that

did they know the rear is lsd and did they use lsd fluid/additive?

the cat is integral to the y pipe, relly to replace it you should find a whole y pipe. some yards cant sell them though because of the cat. but if you are resourceful enough you should be able to find one if nothing else have the heat shield removed or welded up. if you remove it you can have a plate made over the top to protect the axle boot

what it is! yeah i have been trying to get her out of her ford tauris and other tauris derivitaves, the next ones have the same problems as the last ones GET A SUBARU

ok the other day i was playing with this car: i got it running after it sat for 10 years with a bad turbo, drove it 30 miles, it sat for another year. i had to replace teh fuel pump again, this time with one froma turbo ea82. the damper on the end leaked so i rippedit off with a pair of pliers and connected to whats inside. anyway i got this car to run again for the 2nd time, since last year it smokes like a bizzle, choked me out all night. anyway i have an ea81 turbo and a broken downpipe suitable for modification. this car does not have the water cool retrofit so i will have to pipe into the heater hoses. also i have a spare heater core i would like to make an auxiliary turbo cooler out of. should it be before or after the turbo? anyway this is the first step with this car. im a long way from any motor or tranny swaps as of yet needing to accumulate a pedal box and a crossmember, and of course, a tranny i got a spare ea81 4wd axle to play with i need to find a legacy or similar axle to try to find the key to unlock the elusive ea81 5 lug!

how about the axles, are thay any different than regular 4wd ea81?

dam john, you need to get out of the city. or at least the cars. man that sux, all this going on over there in c-bus. hope its not disgruntled neighbors trying to oust your stuff. at least they dont hand out parking tickets for parking in the street over there. park in the yard im sure the neighbors will love that! anyway sorry about all the bas string of luck hopefully a brak comes for you. holllar hollar

your leak may be an intake gasket, generally that will leak into the intake ports. another place to check is the little coolant hose between the thermostat housing and the block. there is also another hose on the back of the throttle body if your ride is spfi. also check the heater hose clamps you can inspect the timing belts by removing the oputer cover on each side, and run through the timing belt alignment procedure. its possible the belt may have shed a tooth, causing it to jump another thing its possible for the disty to jump if the cam retainer bots are stripped out, causing the cam to walk and jump a tooth.

when and where was the timing belts last serviced?

the one spark is the coil turning on and off, withthe key. its not getting signal from the disty. one of my cars did this, when i turned the key i had no spark but it sparked once when i turned it opff or quit cranking. i ran a hotwire to the coil from the battery and it would start for some reason. it sparked fine as long as it was turning, but nmot when turning the key. a push start would work every time try jumping from the battery to the coil with alligator clips. this will turn the car on even with no key. see if she starts. if she does start take theleads off and see if she still rund note: if you get the car to run like this it will continue to run with the key off until you disconnect the jumper

depending on how cooperative the yard man is you can do like i did i hauled a junk soob to the yard, to junk the body but i was keeping everything else. we stripped the interior to the bone first. i towed the car to the yard with my towbar, took it back and jacked it up, took out the strut/knuckle/hub assy, and the rear end assembly then i dropped the crossmember and tranny mount from under the vehicle i had the yard man pick the body up off the car and haul it away. he then came back and used the tard truck to lift themotr/tranny/crossmember assembly and i backed the truck up underneath, broke down the remaining parts and loaded them mind you i had everything pre loosened before the yard, and the yard man was cool and the yard not very busy, i made short work of it within 2 hours tops but if you can get the yard man out in the fork lift then i would just have it done like i did if you have a buddy to help you can pull the motor by hand. jack the tranny up so the motor mounts come above the fram its easier to lift a moto by hand if you take everything off the top first, to make it light as possible. a short block can be wrestled out by 2 people easily. i myself wrestled a motor out by myself, taking it down what i could and prying it out with a 2xr. off to the side, and loading it into a sedan, boy was that fun

you are better off with the block sealer stuff than the bars leaks. you dont want to clog your new radiator! napa offers a product, anyway the block seal product requires that you flush out all antifreeze and use the product with clean water. drive around for 15 min or so to let it circulate through, then drain all the water out of the cooling system even the block it recommends you let the syestem dry 12 hours or so, leave teh radiator cap off and the hoses disconnected. ther should be drain plugs on the head s as well

and if you do find something with a rod knock or whatever, you still cant go wrong if you have spare motors or other parts laying around, so long as teh price is right. iu have bought a turbo wagon with the motor torn apart in the back and was driving it a week later with a mix and mathc carb motor i threw together, hence TRASHWAGON 6

i just found a 92 loyalke for 50 bucks with a broken timing bely. i already had a belt, bought 7 dollars worth of cam seals. runs good, has cold ac, good brakes, axles, tranny, 123,ooo miles, it drives better than my sedan

how high were you jackstands, and was the motor/tranny unit tilted 45 deg or more? i did it once this way and i had all kinds of hell clearing the spare tire well, had to remove the swaybar(ea81) and jack the car up all crazy just to get the rigght angle on my motor. if i wanted to pull the motor and tranny as a unit again i would find it easier to drop the whole crossmember and suspension assembly

both the nut and the stud will me m10 X 1.25 thats 10mm in diameter ansd 1.25 thread per mm you can find the studs in the HELP aisle at adv or auto zone. the nut will be the same as any ohter 14mm bolt on the car, you may find them elsewhere or at the junkyard be aware that when looking for bolts at the hardware store the 1.25 is a hard to find thread. also some bolts of this size will have larger heads but that is ok dont ley yhe man there try to sell you sayin 1.0 or 1.5 fits, as it will thread on about 4-4 turns then be tight, you dont want this and make sure you specify 1.25 threads

yeah tighten up the cable a small bit. i picked up this wagon in iowa supposely a bad clutch but the cable was loose. it wouldnt go into gear rinning, so i tightened it up. them put 2000 miles on it within a week, including the Hot Rod Power Tour

this place you jumped it is where i discovered to bypass the park and neutral switches, in a car that was converted from 4at to 5spd dual range.

take off the cover plate. look up and remove thee 2 screws that hold the speaker bracket. twist and turn and fanagle the unit till you can pull it thru!

2nd fuel filter exists on ea81 models but not on ea82, to clarify things