MilesFox

People always confuse the term 'backpressure' with 'scavenging'. The idea of scavenging is keeping the exhaust velocity up to pull exhaust out of the combustion chamber. The idea of 'backpressure' is the exhaust pulses reflecting in the system to give a charging effect, especially with expansion chambers in 2-stroke engines.

carry over the driveshaft and the rear diff to match the final drive ratio

Ok, i see now. I failed to take that into consideration. Gasket matches the block, then. Too bad there isn't an aftermarket composite 2.5 gasket.

IT can hold park while running, but once you shut it off, it will roll. I had to get by like this, and keep a block of wood in the floorboard to throw under the car as a parking brake. Then when time to go, roll forward and pick it up. Then i chopped a wire to lock in the rear drive and removed the broken axle. then i finally replaced it and restored the wire. This is a dynamic platform, if you will.

The ecu knows when the car is in gear or neutral/park to kick theidle up when there is load form the trans, then lets it down while in park. this is normal operation what you describe. The defroster ven, when the ac is working, engages the compressor to dehumidfy, creating load on the engine. the IACV sits off the side of the throttle body/intake with the fat hose running under the intake tube to near the airbox. there are 2 screws on top with slotted holes, you can turn it one way or the other. I would only screw with it if the car is stumbling or stalling. I suppose you can play with it just to learn your car. Be careful not to strip the screws. perhaps crack them loose with a flat jaw vise grip. Take the unit off, if necessary, to accomplish this.

Broken axle

It would start in 1 and shift into 2 and stay there. It would probably shift if you forced it long enough. this is an electronically shifted trans with no vacuum modulation. Therefore it can be electrically manipulated. There is also a 'power mode' that works something like being in manual mode and a signal from the kickdown switch will alter the shift map and hold the rpms out longer.

Also, I am supporting the idea of composite gasket considering the head bolts on ej22e are external allowing for re-torque without removing cams or valve covers.

I would try this for my own curiosity. You are welcome to the results if (when) i do. I fi remember right, the rule to apply is use the gasket that goes to the head. I can see where this gets confused using MLS with phase 2 engines. Both the ej25d and the ej22e are open deck blocks. Now, do the phase 1 dohc engines in the overseas markets WRC era 90-95 use composite or MLS?

I inherited an ea82 driveshaft that had zerk fittongs on theu-joints. i don't know if the joints came that way, or if the guy who installed them modified them. But it can be done as my driveshaft is an example

So i have a forester engine for the ej25d block, and just got a set of phase 1 first gen legacy ej22e heads, dual ports. I also got a set of ej22e composite HG's. I have alredy done a frankenmotor using he cometic hybrid MLS gaskets. Considering i have all the parts, but don't have the 200 bucks for cometics, soes anyone see a problem withusing the composite head gaskets on the ej25d block. I will be using the ej22e heads with their original head bolts. And i will also have to port match the water jacket. Pros and cons? Opinions? (have i asked this before? MY car has some farmer built straight pipe and won't pass emissions, and i have a catte mid pipe to use(with dual port header), but the engine in my car is single ports, and i could put a dual port engine together to swap in sooner than i can find a single port header.

1200 is a fair offer. really bout a thousand considering the age. When i mention rust, i am talking about whole sections of the body rusted through, captive nuts ripping out, not a dime or quarter size spot that can be sanded out. I am talking about absurd amounts of road salts here in the misdwest, vs sand in rural areas of the mountains. Salt on the roads where black ice or inches of snow, instead of a dusting now an again in mid 30 degree weather. A car here in wisconsin after 5 years will be far rustier than any 25 year old car in the PNW 1200 is a fair offer, go towards 1500 but try to stat below that. I would consider those prices for something with no rust (by midwest standards( but the same car with the same work done to it with miwest rust wold be barely worth 500 bucks

The first gen legacy had the manu mode button on the shifter. They did away with it in the 2nd gen, but the TCU still has it in its circuitry. Also, some overseas spec 2nd gens had the feature. Yes, this feature allos you to lock in a gear and start off in 2nd gear. I have not oem the mod myself, but i could figure it out by comparing schematics. What i am saying is the TCU has the feature if you tap the pinouts to use it. there should be articles in the archives as i am mentioning the idea having read about it on the forum. As far as where to tap in, i would need to see a schematic and poke at harnesses to figure it out.

The code p0108 is the MAP sensor code. Check that the vacuum lines and intake boots are all connected. the map sensor is located on the passenger side strut tower. IT is a black module with a vac line going to a orange colored solenoid, and the vac line from that goes to the vacuum tee on the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side. check the connections. This ties i to cvacuum lines that also tie into the fuel pressure regulator. IF the FPR was disconnected, the fuel rail wuld see max pressure all the time. Any history on the car?

$1500 or so mean value. No rust is a bonus, and in a climate where it won't rust is extra bonus. Offer 1500 and make the case that putting (analogy) 100 bucks into a car that i only worht 100 bucks does not make it worht 2000 if it is a 1000 dollar car. I can imagine the asking price has to do with te amount of work on it. Otherwise, a solid running car is worth the price for 1500

going by the gauge, or a digital meter? low idle is fine, subarus idle fairly low, as long as it is not stalling, and the idle kicks up if you put load on it. You can adjust the initial idle by clocking the IACV if you think it is too low. Sounds normal if it kicks up with load vs stalling. The mark on the tacho will look to be about 500 based on the graduations. AT's do call for a higher initial idle than an MT. it should be displayed on the emissions sticker under the hood

I go the route of jacking up the one side of the car to get the trans out past the frame rails

Try wiggling the lines where they connect on the struts. there are 2 o-rings, which wiggling them sometimes makes them seal. try some silicone grease on them. There should be a height sensor in the rear struts, check the connections. Should the struts themselves be failed, you can retrofit conventional springed struts in their place. There are probably no more oem NOS stocks available anymore

I suppose you could do either way. Perhaps it makes more sense to put the largest tires on the right side to make up for road crown.

Do this

If in doubt, tale the 2 matching tires and mount them diagonal. that way at least one rear and one front tire are the same rotation sepeed, and any difference in the other tires will be absorbed by the diff

You can press out the axle and bearings with a 3 lb hammer, a block of wood, and a drift.

If you are running one odd tire, you will be ok. IF you are running a PAIR of different size tires, mount them diagonal from eachother. OR, if you run them in the front, (assuming automatic) use the FWD fuse and limit your driving until you get matching wheels. for manual trans mount them diagonal

It is possible the belts have been done with that mileage. It is possible the HG had been done with the miles. But then again you are at the miles where they usually fail (about 150,000) If you pull the motor, you can re-torque the heads and get by that way. HG failures are caused by corrosion from lack of coolant maintenance. definitely do the seals and timing belt

Find a whole car for cheap or at the junkyard to salvage your parts. It's easier to get a whole setup rom the same rig vs sourcing bits and pieces. Otherwise, you can retrofit the rear suspension from the subframe, trailing arms, diff and axle bit by bit, and then come up on the trans and driveshaft and there you go. If you source the trans and driveshaft, you can install the first part of the driveshaft by the carrier bearing (you will have to make mount), and drive the trans in FWD until you source rear parts. Theoretically, this platorm can be FWD, 4wd, or RWD