MilesFox

If you are into modding, you can tap into manual mode to start off in a selected gear. The TCU has it although there is no button on the shifter. worth looking at if you are getting into such a project.

MAybe there is a vacuum pr manifold leak. have the intake gaskets inspected.

One could use anaerobic on the threads to seal it out. This would be a good idea for intake manifold bolts since they rust. So would be regular coolant and oil changes to prevent corrosion and varnitsh

unplug the engine harness, remove the gorund bolt, and get all tose wires out of the way. use a deep socket if you can you wont lose much coolant at all unless you can't find the hole putting in the new one.

I used to run 195-60's on my 95 (trahwagon0 ) with forester strits. This according to the tire size calulator, was the closest match for the 3.900 gear (manual ) to a 185/70/14 a 205/60 would give you 8% difference. 205 70 might not clear regular struts. 205/70 will not fit on my 3door with xt6 strut

The heads bolts thread thru coolant and oil passages. the fluids capillary actoin up the threads. How foul the bolts are are conducive to the location of each one.

You could consider doing the head gasket as future maintenance, such as 100,000 mi when the timing belt is due Either do it preemptively, or budget yourself for it and hae it done t first symptoms. If caught soon enough, replacing the gasket is a permanent fix with an updated gasket design. But if the motor is overheated severly, it compromises the internal bearings and could throw a rod even after HG repairs. Thisis particular to ej25d engine, DOHC. Regular coolant changes will help preserve them as they begin to fail from corrosion. If you are inclined to do your own service or routine maintenance, you will find the subaru is much easier to acess and work on for simple repairs such as an alternator or a starter.

The front axle is on a stub held on by a roll pin. The outer cv was busted. I simply popped out the pin, and pulled the axle out leaving the outer spindle with the hub. i turned the wheel sharp to pull the broken end out of the spindle. It only required a hammer and a drift punch. You could take an axle apart and keep the spindle part and install that to delete a front axle if you were going RWD on purpose. How hard on the rear drivetrain 100% will be based on how you drive. I have done RWD with both the 4eat and part time 4wd ea82 manual trans. Based on the posts in this forum, you remove the tail housing to the trans to get at the duty c. You can remove the trans crossmember and the pitch stopper and let the trans drop down enough to get to it without unbolting it from the motor.

It will need to see a vss signal.

What year and model are you installing it? Tell us more about your car.

From what i understand is the injectors are live all the time, and ground through the resistor to the ecu. If the resistor failed, it would prohibit a signal. If i remember right there are 2 resistors. There is a ceramic resistor in an aluminum shroud mounted on the passenger side strut.

The marine terminals will be anywhere you can buy a battery, such as wal mart or autozone and the like. It would be best to start with the battery terminals to eliminate that as a possibility if the symptoms continue leading to the cause. And it is best for the overall longevity of the car. And witht he marine terminal, you can at lest use the positive side without modification if you can undo the 12mm nut, and a pair of vise grips to hold it for leverage.

The subaru stuff you can add to the coolant.It's pretty inexpensive. Otherwise the 20 dollar 'liquid glass' stuff requires a cpmplete flush with fresh water to apply. I have had success with the liquid glass products (sodium silicate) with ea81 and ea82 engine. The subaru stuff is cheap enough you may as well give that a go first. Your motor might take a while to die. I used to drive 150 miles each way with a blown head gasket, i would run it with the cap loose so that the coolant wouldnt push out. I once drove 40 miles with no water pump so hot the oil was boiling. The motor (ea81)was still good putting on new head gaskets with no machining.

The factor clamps do stretch out and dont fit right after so long. For the positive side, the clamp is held on to the wire by a 12mm nut. I like to replace them with brass marine battery terminals witht he wing nut. You will have to modify the negative wire (crimp on an eyelet) to use the marine terminal. The nice thing with this is you can disconnect the battery by the wingnut instead of compromising the clamps. I would agree that the terminals are just worn out.

For future reference, the dot on the cam lines up withthe valve cover gasket, should yo have to do this agian and ditch the covers for convenience.

The fuse will be 15 amp(blue). Running in 'forced' FWD will overburden the duty c solenoid (100% duty cycle) causing it to potentially burn itself out. As you mentioned the switch mod to fully disengage the duty c (thus locking in 4wd), it is possible to run as a RWD in the instance of a broken front axle to get you home. I had to resort to this. I simply cut the #11 pinout (grey wire) on the trans pigtail under the hood, and removed the inner axle from the font (leaging the outer part in the hub) and ran it as a rwd delivering pizza for a week unti i could replace the axle. Nice things about these cars, is that the same car can be a FWD, 4WD, or RWD

Inspect the radius rod bushings. This is the part that has the rod form the control arm where it fits the bracket on the body behind the wheel. There is a nut to adjust there for alignment. see if the nut is loose or if the bushing is falling apart.

Most likely a leaking cam seal. Also, look under the alternator for the oil pressure sensor, as it can leak and run down the front of the engine behind the belt covers. if this is the case, you will see oil under the alternator.

It could possibly be the ign switch inside the steering wheel. You can remove it easily from the left side after removing the covers. There is probably a bad contact. This is a somewhat common occurrence across all models. If i am not mistaken, the neutral switch should be built into the shifter. This is true with 3spd automatic in 80's model GL and loyale.

Check the PCV system, This engine is known to ingest oil in the pcv with long right hand sweeping turns such as an on ramp. Check the breather hoses to the pcv and valve covers if they are clogged like arteries. This is likely your problem, investigate that first.

HAHA this is a picture floating around on the internet. it once was accused of being one of my cars, but not.

The ground wire mentioned above will connect on the right hand side (lookig at motor)of the intake near the #4 injector (rearmost). and the bolt for it is horizontal and perpendicular to the engine. 12mm tool. try cleaning the ontacts on the pigtails to the cmponents. One especially to consider is the engine temp sensor, which is under the intake at the rear ont he water crossober pipe lust below and to the left of the throttle body. It will be hiding under the bundle of wires that connect on the bellhousing

cut off the muffler. on a more serious note, cut off the muffler, and cut the center section of the exhaust out and install a glasspack, and then replace thae muffler with that center section. That is how i do it. Others may suggest diffeerently. you will not find any aftermarket beyond a muffler itself. If you chose a glasspack, i suggest it in the middle rather than at the end as far as scavenging and exhaust veloity dynamics are concerned. What does it sound like?

You would have to drop the crossmember and diff to drop the tank. the lines run perpendicular to the car along the rear floor roll pan. you can probably get your line above the tank on the driver side. the lines run along the side of the car instead of directly over the tank. hope this helps you. i have used 3/16 compression fittings. although compressin fittings are not recommended. there are metric thread brake lines you can get that will thread up better to the original unions, standards will get tight as you go as the threads jam up after about 3 or 4 turns, but they will work.

the fuel pump comes on at key on for 2 seconds, then again while cranking. if oyu plug in the green connectors, it cycles the pump off and on. check fuse #5, and check the fusible links under the hood on the overflow.