Hondasucks

Dammit why do I have to live so far south and get such crappy mileage...

well, you can fill it up with ATF and like, drive it around the block a couple of times, just go easy and don't hammer on it, then when you change it, use a 50/50 mix of synthetic and regular gear oil. Made my turbowagon shift like all smooth and stuff.

There is a place here in Albany that will grind a cam for 45 bucks, but someone told me that they don't heat treat it and it will only last for 30,000 miles or so :-( That would be sweet to get a big monster cam for my Turbowagon :-) Ricer: Dude does that have a cam in it? Me: No it just runs liek crap, want to race?

Don't drive the car with it in the tranny, the ATF won't properly lubricate the hypoid gears in the front differential (That's why the Subamatics have gear oil in the front diff), and running it in a motor you are going to tear down is fine, but if you fill a motor with ATF all that gunk it breaks free will clog your oil filter and send all that garbage through your bearings if you are not careful. Although my car was a quart low on oil, dumped a quart of ATF in there and no more lifter tap. Also dont' drive it with more than a quart or so in the motor, because ATF does not lubricate the cylinder walls as well as motor oil does.

might be your coil pack or the ignitor thinger for the coil pack.

I'd do a compression check if I were you, that would aid the diagnosis. I dunno about back there, but out here Schucks has a tune-up kit that comes with a timing light, compression tester, and like 2 other tools for like $40 bucks.

Thats not an 86, it's an 85. 85's had the mirrors attached to the doors, 86s had them attached in the corner of where the window is on the 85. (Unless someone put 85 doors on it and repainted it or something)

http://www.smallcar.com

no he wasn;t there, he was in LA, I emailed him about pics already :-(

GRRRRRR no more pics from the october one then i take it?:temper: :temper: :temper: oh well I guess I'll get some action pics next year :boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo:

the throwout bearing is not supposed to ride on the pressure plate al the time, that is why a properly adjusted clutch cable and hill-holder (if equipped) is so important.

If you are going to have head work done, get a set of 84 or later EA81 heads, I read somewhere that they have bigger valves.

a four barrel would be FAR too much carb for a Soob motor. I don't know about one of the small hitachi 4 barrels they used on Mazda RX-7s, but even a Holley 650 CFM would be way too much for a stock soob motor.

yeah it goes pretty good, I need to get an I/C though. And I might switch to a non-turbo DR 5 speed tranny, so I have 3.90 gears for better spool time, if I end up doing that my 85 RX tranny will be up for $250.

don't know about the Fuel Efficent part, but those did come with a 9.3:1 compression EA71 and are quite rare.

DAmmit one of those needs to come up for sale out here so Andrew can buy it :-)

I read somewhere that the turbo stuff off of a Turbo Sprint will bolt onto a Justy.

*bump*

Hey John, I want that RX rally car. Give ya $300 if you include both seats and harnesses :-) It will be a while, since I won't have the $$$ until after I sell the 84 turbowagon I haven't gotten yet :-P but I do want the car. Hell, I have a place I can stash it if you dont' want it sitting alongside your shop... PS my cell # is 541-979-0564 and my home # is 541-924-9001 PS I also need a 4WD Hitachi for an EA82, non-computerized. Don't care as long as its rebuildable.

so what are we talkin here, bracket piping and intercooler :-) I'd really liek one with the BOV cuz I dont' want to go spend a bunch of money on an aftermarket BOV, the stock WRX one is noisy enough for me :-)

I used to go to Mark Thomas Motors here in Albany for my parts for my soob. They deal with Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Subaru, and Hyundai. Until the day when I NEEDED timing belts for my 87 Turbowagon. After about 20 minutes arguing with the parts guy that there is no difference between a Loyale and a GL timing belt (not that it mattered he didn't stock either one, and gave me the same part number for BOTH BELTS ding ding ding ONE IS LONGER, but then again he couldn't find it in his book correctly... At any rate, it was like $40 a pop for the belts. I did not want to go to Schucks and get a garbage belt, so I drove 20 minutes to Corvallis and stopped at John and Phils Toyota/Subaru. They had them in stock for $26 a piece. Last week I got a new PCV valve, MTM had it in stock, wanted 20 bucks, J&P had to order it but it only cost me $11.20. So if you live near Corvallis, I recommend John and Phils if you need Subaru parts.

My 83 GL-10 was listed as a SUBA G4D (GL 4 door I guess) and my 84 4WD wagon was a SUBA GL 4W

well I didn't ge the I/C, but I am still interested in your bracket. $40 sounds good enough for me, I'll let you know when I get the $$$ if ya hang on to it for me...

they started doing that in 1983 actually, my 82 sedan does not have it but my 83 sedan did.

If the distributor does not rotate you have one of three things. The first, and most common, is a broken timing belt, which is likely if the belt was not installed properly. The second and third, although not as common, can happen, and that is either the pin that holds the drive gear on the end of the distibutor shaft broke, or the drive gears are stripped out. You can check the belts by removing the covers, the one on the driver's side drives the distributor, so you can remove that side's cover and see if the belt is broken or not. Other possibility is a broken camshaft.