4x4_Welder

Yeah, almost there. Wish I was. Still need to pull the rear end out of my Hatch, still need to finish the rebuild of my new EA81, and now have to buy new lifters or have these ones reground since the neighbors kid got into the garage and played with the old lifters, getting them all out of order. Plus, -somebody- took a rock to a perfectly nice wagon I wanted to build out. Not to mention the nearly new 390 I was going to put into my 72 F100 got scrapped out by my ********************* former landlords, who seem to think anything not theirs is junk. Oh well, they're being sued by me and the county now- I need to get some cash together so I can finish my trailer and go get a couple parts trucks about 50miles away with my worn-out local hauling truck, so I can build a replacement that can go beyond the local area. My wife is due to have our first kid in the next couple weeks, but the kid is sitting the wrong way so it'll be a c-section unless the thing flips in the next week or so. Nothing ever goes to plan.

Man, someone had too much time and aluminum on their hands-

Take a hard look and tell me the only damaged part is the door. That kind of a dent, twists the pillar, and the hinge mounts to the point that another door won't close properly. Just because it's a 4x4 doesn't mean it has to be trashed. I am glad that you showed this now, though- If I would have hauled a trailer all the way down there at 12mpg to find that, I probably would have finished it off myself. You can keep your "7/8 straight" car. I can find another one.

Ok, then I won't take it. I told you the only thing I really cared about was that the body was halfway decent.

Ford filters won't fit, they are a 3/4" thread, the Subaru uses an 18mm (I think) thread, might thread on, but won't be secure. Plus, I think the FL1A filter is physically too large to fit there. Might have to double check. I run Napa filters on my Subarus since they and Wix seem to be the only ones that get more than 1/2 a thread to grab on, plus they are good filters. I run FL1A filters on all my Fords, they have the only approved check valve, and also the only way to keep a 300-6 from having a valve tick on startup. As a further example of a junk filter, try a Firestone- I think it's a repainted Fram. When I worked there, I had TWO blow apart off Hondas in a single week. They had a recall a few weeks later for those ones and five or six other numbers.

I'd say run it for a couple years, then send in a story to SOA- I bought this thing with only 1,7xx,xxx miles on it, and it was just getting broken in. Might get you a free one!

On all my turbo vehicles, I've always run diesel oil, usually 15w40, but that may be a bit thick on these cars- running 15w40 on my old Hatch, since that's what I had, the oil pressure was a bit odd and it burned a lot more oil. I do know that Castrol is designed for turbo engines, and I have always liked to run that. I usually run Castrol 10w30 in my non-turbo cars, with no problems, and a nice clean engine. You'll probably be fine as long as you don't run q-state or Penzoil. They both leave massive amounts of waxy buildup- you can always tell when an engine ran those, they are bright orange inside.

That's great, until you come off a jump or something, hit full extension, and pull them apart.

I have had wipers just up and run by cycling the ignition switch several times fast. Clean your battery terminals, don't just look at them, and tighten them down. If there is any play in the cable where it comes out of the terminal, or there are any signs of corrosion around that junction, change it out. These cars have such weak electrical systems, that any corrosion or bad connection will make it fail.

As long as the body is mostly there, not missing doors, fenders, etc. , and the driveshaft is there. The rest can be gone for all I care, I have the pieces to put it back together. It'll be a little bit before I get the new truck together. I still need to go get the body and frame donors, that should be next week, then it's just a matter of bolting it all together.

How tired of looking at it? I need to wrap up some stuff, but that's what I'm looking for. Just don't trust my truck for that kind of haul right now.

Got any pics? 2wd or 4x4?

That makes it a standard Florida car, then- rotted to death wherever the rain washes the salt to. When a jack goes through your floor, or you can take half your rocker off by hand without any force, or when you scrape a curb and then can't open and close the doors right, let me know.

You ought to tell the webmaster to change all the site's internal links to .org instead of .net- makes navigation a little easier.

That would be sweet- I might have to get a car for that. My Galaxie was a little pricey for the competition, but I could probably pick up another beater Hatch or wagon for it.

Rent one from uhaul, give me gas money, and I'll gladly haul it for you. I have next weekend open as of now, but that can change- let me know by Wed. if you want to do this.

You'd be better off starting with a big chunk of aluminum, and drilling a couple passages through it lengthwise, put fittings on each end, and run your heater hoses through there. Much more controlled cooking environment, only gets up to ~200º, while an exhaust box gets over 500º.

Special lugs- check the sticky in the wanted forum.

The inner shouldn't be too hard, just pull the boot back from the rack, loosen the inner tie rod end, and replace. You may need to grind your wrench thinner to get it onto the flats.

I can see why they don't make 17s or 18s for these cars- the 15s look like 20s in those wheelwells! On edit: I am definetely painting my Pugs for whatever Subaru I wind up getting next. Those things rock!

Two possibilities- bad turbo, or bad cat, just going by sounds. If it was an internal noise, it would have come apart by now.

How many times do you pump the gas before starting it cold?

Also called GMAW, gas metal arc welding. One thing to watch for on any machine is the number of heat settings, number of wire feed settings on a mig, and duty cycle. A machine with a 10 or 15% duty cycle is just about worthless. My snap-on YA217 has a duty cycle of about 35%, and I have hit that a few times. My Miller Dynasty 200 has a 20% duty cycle maxed out, but that isn't too bad on a stick machine. I have only tripped it when running 5/32" rods on thick steel for an extended time, it's fine for 1/8" rods even for extended use.

First, check the fuel pressure regulator. If there is fuel in that vacuum line, it's bad and is the source of your issues. If that's not the case, you will need to establish if the injectors are sticking, or if the computer is dumping fuel in.

Just watch out for the coast cars, and east coast imports. My 82 DL Wagon was from the west originally, but I bought it in CT, after the bubbling began. After a year and a half here, the rust had gotten bad enough that it wasn't worth fixing. My Hatch, I have no history on. It might have had leaking rear windows, but I never saw water on the floor, and it never smelled damp. But, the rockers are gone at the rear, and it's extensive. It almost seems to have rusted from the inside out, the outside looked decent, but a jack went right through when the pinch weld finally gave out.