Loyale 2.7 Turbo

...or are you writing about the metallic inserts to place the screws? At some point, there was a change in the production, to improve them.

Maybe you obtained the Part for the EA82 with MPFi "Spider" styled intake manifold, while the other is for the Regular EA82. Kind Regards.

Awesome! Don't forget to share photos here, with us. Kind Regards.

The thing works Flawlessly!

Long ago, the plastic pieces that hangs up the sun visors, got broken; so I used this electrical wiring holders, made of Metal but insulated with black rubber (found at the local Napa store), they doesn't allow the side movement, which almost never was used by us; but they looks good, fits perfectly, and works awesome. The new metallic ones are up, while the Old plastic ones are down.

Recently I decided to change the rubber bushings from the Rear stabilizer Bar; because they became a little Noisy somehow; here I share a Photo of them, with their part number clearly shown on the Bag; which strangely, was written in Spanish:

Besides a Busted C.V. Joint and a 4WD lever placed in between gears; the only third thing that could be Happening, is a Clutch fail... but even if the Clutch disk slips, the car had to move a little. Let us know what happened; Kind Regards.

Sadly, the West Coast Subaru Show @ Facebook, is a Restricted page, thus means that only invited / added folks can view it... Kind Regards.

You know that it is Hard to diagnose a fail on an engine that I can not see, hear or test by myself; and I'll like to know if the engine has a clean / new air filter's Element; and also it is important to know \ see, in which state came out the old sparkplugs: they actually tells a lot of information from the Engine's combustion behaviour. Assuming that they came very Fouled, plus the fact that the engine is using a Lot of Gasoline; I believe that there should be a Bad amount of carbon deposits / sludge buildup on the Combustion Chambers, and the Valves' necks; Besides that, the engine might have dirty injectors, and also a Failing IAC valve, plus a dirty MAF. In that case, a good Cleansing of the injectors, plus a Seafoam cleansing for the Upper Engine / combustion Chambers and Valves, along a Cleansing of the MAF / IAC valve might take care of all those problems... But also it worth checking the Exhaust system, in order to establish if there is a Clogged Catalytic converter(s) or Muffler, in combination with the rest of above stated probabilities. Kind Regards.

That's Awesome! Welcome Back, Kind Regards.

No, because Extra Fuel, burns out in a Black Smoke, not "pure White" smoke. No, because Coolant doesn't make White Smoke, it makes Blueish Smoke, usually. I agree with this: So, I kindly suggest you to check the routing of the PCV system, and check the state of the PCV Valve. Let us know the results. Kind Regards.

I'm interested to see that, but in my own humble opinion, there's no need for a new thread; You can continue here, if you want to... Good Luck! Kind Regards.

Those are chunks from a damaged Catalytic Converter.

Welcome! Your Subaru looks like it got its Suspension, Lowered; somehow... But it looks nice and Clean. Kind Regards.

Yes, New Hoses Kind Regards.

Your Facebook's web link to your Video, doesn't work here, except for the ones who are already on your Friend list there; due to the restrictions established on your account. So, I kindly suggest you to upload your Videos on YouTube, and share 'em from there. Kind Regards.

Never trust on an Old hose without a good Brand on it: This one was only three years old, but was a cheap hose. Kind Regards.

The Maximum time I 've left the main Radiator hoses to stay, were ten years, but they were Gates brand, not cheap ones for sure; after a Decade, I changed them only to stay safe on the Road, however, they felt still soft to the touch, and only had minor deformity on the part where the hose joins the pipe, due to the clamp. However, I believe that Five years is the best bet to change ALL the hoses on the cooling system; to stay safe. Consider it cheap insurance, somehow. Kind Regards.

Sadly, I can't reach to see those Photos: the Links says Error 404. Edit: added the image that displays on all those links above

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152891-recurrent-question-how-to-share-photos-on-your-posts/

As Far As I Know, Subaru of America (SOA) imported to USA, only Seven dual range Legacies on year 1989, all of them were used as Display models on certain Dealers in USA; after that, some were sold, one of them reached here to USMB, but to find a Dual Range EJ subaru in USA is pretty hard. However, I came across this Cragslist advertisment, of one of those EJ Dual range Transmissions for sale: ~► http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5563869077.html I bet that lots of Folks in USMB will be interested in having EJ dual range AWD on their rigs. Kind Regards.

Why don't you try to run Twin Webers?

During all these years, besides worn coil springs after sixteen years of use; the only trouble I've had with the Suspension parts of this Sephia, is not the vehicle's fault, but the crappy aftermarket parts' quality; the links for the rear Sway Bar had a bolt that pops out from its rubber base, as you can see in the following photo: The simple and permanent solution to that, is to use an Oversized Washer on each side's link: And the thing Never pops out again. Kind Regards.

That entire post of grossgary is full of Great Advice. I Agree with him, Completely. Yes and No. Yes, any liquid will find a way thru any welding that is poorly done; however, if the Aluminium Welding is done properly, it should Never leak a single drop; however, due to the inherent imperfections of the Weldings, the Welders, and the equipment used; you can smear a layer of JB weld on the outside of the case welded, and let it cure for more than enough time, only to be Sure that the thing will not Leak. Kind Regards.