Meeky Moose

yeah i figured that would be the hard part, all 6'3" of me upside down tryin to figure out which way to turn the nuts

if i had the $$ to start my own shop / carlot i would do it in a heartbeat.. could undercut all these shops around here on labor and still make a killin..

just called a shop for ****s and giggles to see what they'd charge to put a headgasket in my RX.. you better be sittin down.. they wanted $1200-$1500 to just do the drivers side gasket.. needless to say, i'm not takin the car in to have that done, lol

hehe seems to be more peeps from VA showin up, woohoo.. i'm just north of charlottesville, btw.. the clutch for my turbo wagon was only 2 somthin from the dealer... i've noticed that advance and autozone here wants more for thier stuff than the dealer does, lol.. go figure...

well i found a near mint 88' 2wd GL spfi wagon... its automatic with a bad tranny.. not going to tell ya what i can get it for.. how hard would it be to swap that auto with a 5-speed from a DL ? i'd have the entire DL for a donor car really..

acctaully i think its the other way around, the us ea82T was rated at like 115 i think maybe it was 135.. one of the 2. the jdm model might acctually be rated at more.. not sure tho..

well the RX doesn't have power steering.. and the parts wagon does.. since i'll be pullin the engine here at some point i was thinkin about swappin the power steering rack over to the RX so the wife can drive it.. can this be done? the wagon is 2wd and the RX is well 4wd.. i was thinkin it might be just a bolt in thing, take the old one out, bolt in the power rack along with the lines, and whala instant power steering.. but i'm not sure if that'll work or not, or if it'll be that easy.. any input on this would be greatly appreciated..

yeah i was wonderin where that ebay auction went to hehe.. thats the one where the guy couldn't tell me what gen heads were on it.. let me know how that engine works out for ya, i may go that route myself..

i don't think my 27"s would fit under the hood, and i might as well drive like ace ventura with my head out the window if its on the hood.. lol

please read.. " TIRES ARE NOT TOO BIG " they really aren't but a couple inches taller than mine, just a little wider is all.. and being that he's got over twice the power and engine that i do, i don't see tires as the problem.. my hatch turns mine just fine with the 70 hp its got.. i can still do 80 on the flats, and tear up the mud pits.. in fact, when these tires get worn out, i'm doin a 6 lug swap and puttin some real meat under it similiar to Scotts (not as wide tho). i figure i may have to get creative and tear my diff's apart and get some 4.11 gears.. or slap an H6 in there for ****s and giggles.. :moon:

ya know i've been contemplating ways to use that space on my lifted hatch... my spare is on teh roof in a rack.. so the space under the hood is wasted.. guess i'll have to figure somethin out.. maybe weld in some sheetmetal with a sliding lid and rubber seal.... would be perfect for cables, bungee cords, and some basic tools... my hatch won't be going scuba diving like it did in the past so theres no need for me to worry about water.. the most i ever see there is mud spots..

i asked that awhile back in another thread.. heres the link to it, it'll explain it.. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8874

theres an ea82T on ebay for like 595 or 650 can't remember which.. i was thinkin about that, but the guy doesn't know what gen heads are on it.. and i won't go with anything other then gen 3 personally.. but its a complete jap pullout motor.. so you'd have to pull yours and put that one in, thats about it since its complete.. even has the fan on the front lol just a suggestion..

well all EA82T engines had hydraulic lifters... in order to remove the head you'll need to take the timing belts off, the cam will have to come out since its an overhead cam engine, then the head should come off.. i've never replaced a head on one of these yet.. there were also 3 generations of heads.. the 1st gen heads cracked for sure when a head gasket was blown or it was over heated.. 2nd gen heads were a little better, and 3rd gen heads still cracked but it was never as bad.. in my RX i'm not going to mess with the head gasket as it has a gen1 head on it, and i'm sure thats the side that blew.. so i'd have to replace a head and a gasket, timing belts as well.. on top of that all my vacuum lines are hard as rocks and need replaced.. i'm just waitin until taxes come back and i'm stickin a complete new engine in there, to be done with it.. the new one will have gen 3 heads as well.. in my opinion, since your pulling the engine to do it, i would go ahead and change both gaskets.. as well as change the timing belts, water pump, oil pump, and reseal the engine.. cam seals, crank seals, etc.. theres nothing worse than doin all that work and 2 weeks down the road you get a rear mainseal leakin or somethin and have to pull it out again.. with that many miles it wouldn't hurt anyways.. my turbo wagon has 290k original on it, started using water, then failed inspection.. so its now a parts car, but if ya do al teh above, you should get many many more miles out of it..

no rubbing on my 84 gl hatch thats lifted heres a pic... http://usmb.net/albums/albup45/IMG_0615.jpg #fixed link#

tis the season for blown ea82T headgaskets.... i feel your pain, mine blew too at the worst time of the year:mad:

well at least we know you 3 won't be stealing gas from a car with a locking cap

hehe no really it came outa a 83' single range 4x4 wagon, pulled the engine myself.. and i'm sure it was original cause it looks like it.. its now in my hatch tho.. only thing different i noticed was some of the internals, they looked totally different from the hitachi.. otherwise the vacuum advance and wires coming off it are the same.. if you don't want it i might stick it in my hatch to check my hitachi.. at 1800 rpm's no matter the gear, its got severe lifter clatter.. the old engine (supposedly new shortblock) did the same thing.. the only things i used off the original motor was the disty and intake.. so my guess is the hitachi might have something wrong with the vacuum advance part and its not retarding or advancing like it should.. acctually tell ya what Ben, i'll put that nippondenso disty in there tomorrow and if that fixes my clatter problem, you can have the hitachi.. all you'd have to do at that point is swap your vacuum advance parts over to it.. other than that it is in great shape..

i have a good nippondenso disty outa an 83 4x4 wagon if ya want it.. might make things easier..

i'd say pull the blower assembly and heatercore assembly out and inspect it internally.. i am still placin my bets on somethin pluggin it.. in my 86 wagon i had fur (cotton stuff) comin outa my vents for the last 16k of its life.. everytime i'd turn on the blower poof more **** came out.. i figure enough came out to fill a 5 gallon bucket.. and it was still coming out when the car got parked..

personally i would say you don't need a tming gun to put one in.. regardless of where it came from the rotor has to point in the same direction as the old one.. so i'd snag a JY one before you pull the old one, then remember exactly how the old one was positioned when putting the new one in.. as long as ya get it in the same position it'll be timed right..

only $65 for a reman from the parts store.... just replaced both of mine in my 84 hatch

sorry to hear about your troubles right at x-mas time.. but i feel your pain. my RX bloew a headgasket/cracked a head saturday :boohoo:

every turbo subaru i've ever had both had surging problems.. never did find a fix.. guess i'll get to rule the internals of the engine out when i get a new one for the RX in febuary..

i read your other post... i wonder if theres something in the fins of the heater core not letting the air flow through it entirely.. but letting enough come through to where its got air coming out of the vents.. maybe a mouse got in there and made a home.. i don't see how though lol. my RX has a similiar problem although not as bad.. heatoer core doesn't leak or anythng, and the rest of the cooling system is in great shape, but when its cold outside, the damn thing barely puts out enough heat to take the chill off.. dunno why.. if you haven't yet, check the valve that opens and closes the hot water flow .. its hooked to the cable that runs the temperature control.. my guess is that mine is partially corroded and not fully opening.. yours may have corroded to the point it won't let any past it.. normally if your heatercore is bad you'll get a leak or the smell of antifreeze in the car.. you should be able to get one at any parts store, if you decide to replace it, but i don't think thats the problem..