backwoodsboy

BACKWOODSBOY = EXCITED!!!! I finally had a good day to work on my brat yesterday! Dropped the fuel tank....it was swiss cheese. found more rust. (duh) Welded, fabricated... and painted. New gas tank, lines, and a LOT of new steel Now I just need my motor.

Lookin good! I see fender cutting and bashing in your future, sir.

Im thinking either OE or FelPro for the EA81 gaskets. As far as the "day or 2 to fix" ... I dont know if it will take THAT long. If you have to get going temporarily, take it apart and fix just the one side. Your biggest fight will probably be getting the caliper to swing off the brake rotor since its seized. EDIT : NAPA part # SDC 2426719 LIST PRICE = 101.00 (eeesh!):-\

All the plugs from subaru are NGKs ... and thats all we stock.

Yeah... sounds like the classic stuck brake caliper. I dont wanna be the one to tell you this... but you may not be delivering pizzas with your brat tonight. :-\ If youve never done work on your front brakes before... you probably are due for pads and rotors anyway. Hit your local NAPA (or parts store of choice) for calipers, pads and rotors. Depending on the rust that is present once you remove the wheel (and if the last person to service the brakes used antiseize) youre probably looking at anywhere from 2 - 3 hours to a full Saturday worth of rebuilding. Its a good idea to do L&R sides at once.

Also, beware of someplace that *doesnt* need your vin OR key code... but rather asks to see your old key for a minute. More times than not, you will be getting a "trace" of your old worn out key, which works... sometimes:-\

Sorry for the caps.... I get a lil carried away sometimes:rolleyes:

Gary, I dont know about YOUR state... but in NY you MUST SHOW PROPER ID. I work in the Subaru parts room. I know. If a dealer is giving someone a key cut from code WITHOUT showing proofs, they are not following orders. This was effective as of May 2008.

Indeed. Drivers license and your registration are acceptable proofs (bring em both) My dealership requires us to make copies and hold em on file even!

Limited slip underwear sound GREAT! I CAN understand your fear of sticker mis-use though. What are we lookin at for prices?

That would look GOOD as a rear window graphic! roll with it! :burnout:

Even with lack of service... (or even flat-out NEGLECT) I have YET to see a customer have to replace a hub or wheel due to corrosion between the aluminum and steel. Theres a first time for everything, but Im willing to bet youre fine. Clean em up with some light wire-wheel action, anti seize em ... and torque the lugs to 100 ft-lbs in the typical cross-pattern. Keep us posted

and you always said BUCKY was a li'l brat! LB here is throwing a full blown temper tantrum (for MONTHS) I have a regular ea81 alt if you want it to try...

The cork gasket IS cheaper (by far) .... AND more "original restoration" ... but the advantage of the tube sealer is that you dont have to snake the oil pan all the way out. Just undo the bolts, break up the old pan gasket (clean!) ... squirt the goo on the pan and send the bolts home.

Shawn has a real good point here. All of the oil pan re-seals we do get this stuff... and we're a dealer. Cant believe I didnt suggest this. The part # is 004403007 if you are interested... and the cost for a tube is 27.20 to be exact. It is REALLY good stuff- you wont be dissapointed.

I would think lowering the x member would be MORE work. You would STILL have to undo the engine mounts in order to get the engine away from the crossmember. You wont need a lot of clearance, but you will need more than is there I believe

You would at least have to unbolt and "lift" the engine away from the crossmember... I guess it doesnt count as pulling the engine if you dont take it out of the car.

Thanks for the support there guys!

Since WHEN have you ever worried about THAT?! Youre telling ME about a lot to do! .... My brats engine case is laying in half, still at the machine shop with the pistons holding down a stack of receipts.:-\ The heads are still in Colorado, and the Cam is in the mail back from Washington! I have to fabricate a full 2" exhaust from cat-back ... and swap out my gas tank. After I get all this done next weekend, I can come up and give you a hand.

WOOHOOOO! :banana: Now THAT is good news! I wanna see that coupe at Carlisle

I cant stand coffee.

This is something we fight with in the shop ALL the time. Corrosion on alloy rims is just like the rust on steel panels. Dont matter WHAT you do, its gonna come back. We brighten up the hubs and wheels with a roloc disc, and re-assemble. Antiseize definitely helps

If youve got good quality rust going on, then the lower control ARM should cut through fairly easily. Cut slowly and soak the area with the spray lubricant of your choice AS you cut. (save your blade) Cutting through the ARM should be a 10 -15 minute easy job Cutting through the HARDENED ball joint... not so much of a good idea. :-\

Might be easier to unbolt the arm on the inboard side where it bolts to the x-member? Should that prove near-impossible, it is do-able to cut through the lower control arm.

Everyone in the shop here just uses the regular 1/2" drive. We're talking about a square drive here. There really isnt the amount of "play" that their picture leads you to believe. I would say to keep your money... I have NEVER seen a diff drain plug strip.