backwoodsboy

Those are 6-lug rims.... ... do the conversion. I dont see a problem here Brian.

Dont forget... a rust free car is not always a problem-free car. Many things may need to be replaced or freshened up at least on a different vehicle. Even IF youre swapping parts off the sedan, its a lot of time to do the work.

Hey! I was gonna post that! Happy newyear Connie!

:eek: Holy crap! I need to come on the board more often! :eek: ...why am I just finding out about this NOW? :-\ Steve, obviously and first of all... VERY sorry about your sedan bro. At least youre not hurt. After reading this whole thread (and your last post about fixing your car) ...I just want you to know that you have one more person backing you with support and parts. Anything funky that you may not be able to get I can see about ordering out of Japan if its economically feasable. NOW.... while youre in there repairing, you KNOW there is no better time to pull that engine and build it! Lets do this.

Im a little further down... but I work in the parts dept at Five Star Subaru in Oneonta. Lemme know if I can be of help.

+1 for Delta Cam! I had them do an EA81 torque grind for me last spring. Highly recommend. Also, I would advise you find yourself a good machine shop that will work with you. My machinists advice has proven very valuable.

You just need an EA82 lifted utility wagon.

+1 on the rubber exhaust hangers. Not a big deal for the DIYer. Just be glad you got the Outback. The 09 & 10 Foresters... you have to remove the rear bumper cover and reinforcement to install the hitch. :-\

Holy crap... GD is dead on as usual. I need to stop posting when Im half asleep. The NON-hydro blocks require head removal to get the lifters out.

GREAT post! Share the love. Glad to see that wagon go to a good home. I will put my name down as another that wouldve liked to own her... but I think ive hit my "white wagons from Connie" quota for now. (Bucky is doing well) Keep us posted (post pics)

The hydro lifters will flop right out when you take the heads off. ...careful, they like to all come out of one side at a time, good luck if youre trying to keep them in order.

This IS sad. Take it from a guy that lives right in the rust belt of the northeast... :-\ Gen 2 brats, wagons and hatchbacks were last spotted around here circa 1993. Nowadays, locals see my 1992 Loyale and say "wow.... thats the oldest subaru Ive ever seen! " Washing helps, but only adds about 2 more years of life. The only way to save your sube is to not drive it in the salt.

Connie, that sucks if they are really blown. I know you will say f-it... but I am offering to come give you a hand if you decide to put h-gaskts on that thing. Its NOT a bad job... I do them all day. Ill even bring the parts.

The answer you will get (at least on here) is to go for the sube. Youll be giving up some ground clearance (a little) and a certain amount of power... but you will come to love the subarus. When it comes to weight distribution and handling (also advantageous in the snow) Subaru has it.

I considered the purchase of those very same panels. After carefully looking over the year-range though, I reached the unfortunate conclusion that the panels are for the EA82 "loyale" body style. :-\ Great for those with rusty loyales.... for us brat owners, not so much.

86 deathwagon.... cool username. On to your trouble, 600 bucks is a TOTAL scam. You dont need a press to do them either. Once the front hubs are off the car, you can drift the bearings out with a punch and hammer. You CAN get your parts at NAPA, but all the aftermarket bearings come from China (and suck) The bearing and seal kit from Subaru is your best bet, and has everything you should need. I have one in front of me right now $47.95 Part # 699901010

Rob, STELLAR job on the engine! Lookin good. :cool: Do you have any pics of the case apart and going back together? Damn I love those motors!

Ha ha... I also get a charge out of seeing this topic come up again. (Nice to know others are driving their GEN 2s enough to need cup holders!) I dont have the picture any longer, but I made a single cupholder that hooked onto the top leading edge of the glovebox door. Close the glove door on the hook, and it is quite stable!

PO420 code is cat-converter low efficiency. I get this almost weekly on newer subes in the shop. If they are under warranty, sometimes we're changing cats. There is never anything "wrong" with the converter material though... it is my speculation that the electronics are overly sensitive.

Welcome to USMB! It IS a little slower pace here (sometimes) but you will NOT find a more knowlegeable forum when it comes to your old school subes. Enjoy your stay!

Dirk, What motor are we talking about? Im guessing EA71 or EA81 from where youre posting. As far as I can see, you wont know WHERE the wear is until you pop that piston out to see. BUT if one is worn, Id be willing to bet theres wear on the other surface as well. If you get the head off, and have to go deeper into the motor to fix the problem, the heads have to come off to split the case ANYWAY. (sounds like youve been into this engine before?) If your motor is worn enough to have a sloppy pin or piston, I would recommend a full case-split rebuild anyway. I would personally pull the engine out and go to town (AFTER I was sure it wasnt just piston slap)

Looks like a 95 legacy. EJ22 & 4EAT trans... started life in Boise Idaho. What do you need to know?

Thats a good idea! Its like a firewall for your digidash... by the firewall. SO GLAD youre loving LB!

Eesh. I went over mine pretty well when I painted it... but never thought about drilling drain holes, as I assumed it was a sealed unit. :-\ Thanks for the heads up Paul.

Changing the t-belt at 60k is WAY too soon. A 60k change interval on the plugs is not unreasonable. To expect a set of plugs to go 100k is just asking for trouble IMO. I have seen plugs that end up stuck in the cylinder heads from leaving them in too long.