silverhelme

If you have spark at the coil when cranking the problem has to be the coil wire, the cap or the rotor. As long as you installed the star piece correctly it has nothing to do with it except to trigger the coil. Start buy pulling the coil wire at the cap and see if you have spark there. If you don't replace and try again. If you do then it is the cap and/or rotor.

Hope to see more updates.

Some parts do interchange but the axles don't. The ea82 axles are longer than ea81 (brat).

While you have the crank pulley off check it for cracks. I've had two that leaked because of a crack in the pulley.

What GD said' if it leaks with synthetic you need to reseal it or didn't seal it correctly to start with. I've done that and had to fix it but sealed right the don't leak. I have four vehicles I run synthetic in. I built the engines in three myself and none leak.

The 3at has a switch that downshifts if you push the pedal to the floor and it can be pretty violent depending on what speed you are at. Probably nothing wrong with the trans, it is something with the engine itself causing lack of power.

Is it the 3at? If so you have to very carefully disassemble the shifter and the switch the there is a small pin in the switch that needs to be filed carefully to remove the wear. It is a brass pin about a quarter of an inch long and about 1/8th of an inch around. You may have to source another shifter if you can't repair the switch. Once that is fixed if it still does not work check the fuse then you are left with the 4wd engagement solenoid on the side of the transmission.

The governor should not unscrew. There should be three bolts holding the cover on then governor should just slid out.

Should be the same. As Dave said need pics. Try adjusting 2/3 band per manual after you figure out the governor.

Unless you have debris in the fluid there is no reason to change the filter. It is nothing but a fine screen. The manual does not say to use seal but I use a light coating of ultra grey rtv and have never had a problem. Be sure to check your governor valve and adjust your 2-3 band per the manual. Most people dislike the 3at but with proper maintenance I've never had a problem.

I did mine using the existing alternator and wiring and have had no problems with it. I did have to shorten the main output stud about a 1/4 inch for clearance.

Several of us have done it but no posts about it. Mine is a low budget beater hack job with a 2.2 obd 1 backed up by a 3at auto in an '83 Brat. I used parts that for the most part I already had. I only spent about $300 cash on the project. Before I get trashed on the 3at I have to have an auto and it has held up to 5000 rpm shifts for two years.

Mine is a low dollar beater and I'm using a 3at behind an ej22. I don't worry about traction, if I plan on matting the throttle I just hit the 4wd button under my thumb. If I can scrounge the right parts I will eventually change to a 4eat and not have to worry about it.

I ran an ea82 in my Brat for a while.It was interesting how much difference 10 hp makes. I have since graduated to an ej.

Look up on Rockauto for an '83 Brat turbo, they offer a rebuild service for $95.

I'm with you. I have problems with my knee and can't shift well but love my '83 Brat. I must be the exception but I've never had much problem with the 3at including running one behind an EJ22 for the past 3 years. Rockauto says they still have 3 of them left.

In the ea82 cars per the service manual both the 3at and the 4eat used behind turbo engines had 3.454 front diffs. All others used 3.70 or 3.90 diffs. I made the mistake of using a turbo 3at in a nonturbo car and it almost killed me when I put it in 4wd on the snow.

If you have the original engine it doesn't have timing belts. Sounds like an idle circuit problem and it could be the fuel cutoff solenoid has died.

I ran an EA82 in my Brat for two years before I changed to an EJ. Using all stock parts it was basically a boltin job. The hardest part was wiring the fuel injection. Using a 3at for a trans it was much better power wise. It would not seem like 10 or so horsepower would make that much difference but it really ran much better. The reason I used the EA82 was I already had a doner, the EA81 died and I was broke.

I've been running one in my Brat for a couple of years. No clearance problems that I know of. Mine is out of a '93.

I wonder how long the transmission will last being used as a rwd rather than awd. It looks like they just plug the openings for the front axles.

Darn, I used up my months data allowance to read but following.

Those look more like a beaver chewed on the or you have some mice with steel teeth.

Not to be picky but when you replaced the fuel pump, was it a carb or spfi pump? Carb pump doesn't have enough pressure for the spfi system.

It would probably be best to advertise in the wanted section. There are no new ones out there that I can find so a used one or repair your old one. As you said I have looked at a fuel cell but lost fuel size and fitment was the biggest problem.