silverhelme
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Everything posted by silverhelme
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Do not put the rocker arm set itself on just the bolts from it. Do your torque then remove the bolts and spacers and install the rocker arms.
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If you can't get it from 2.7 Turbo send me a PM with your email and I will send one.
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Not really. Most of us just lay the harness out, install the spfi (or in my case the whole engine ), hook everything up temporarily and try to get it started before tucking in all the wiring.
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Double post.
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It isn't all that great to keep. If you have already removed it no problem. You can get most of the same information from the ECM itself but it is easier to read with a scanner.
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I just did a quick search and they are available in several places. Look up for a 1984 Brat or GL to avoid the gen 2 gen 3 split. One was available here http://www.oemautopartsandaccessories.com/catalog/parts/view/n/fuel-gauge-sending-unit-785111000/v/subaru-brat-1984/vtec/45790/pid/c8623ea793bcfb83/
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I don't know about the ecu because I used it auto to auto so just had to wire for relays. The plug for using a scanner is the one you showed in the first picture above.
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I left mine in place so that I can plug in my Snap On scanner for diagnostics. Makes it much easier to track problems.
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Double post. See above.
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The first one is the diagnostic plug and you do nothing with it just leave it as is do not remove. The other two pictures are to dark to make out what it is. If you PM me with an email address I think I have a copy of GD's write up.
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It is an almost direct swap if you are willing to have a drive shaft made. As far as " clutching it " that's great as long as it doesn't hurt. Having a bad knee precludes " clutching it " for me and why should I change something that ain't broke. Mine has 200k on it and is still going strong despite going to a 2.2 almost 2 years ago. If you have one that is working well, just maintain it as it should be and call it good. If you have a bad one it's your choice as to what you do but being as it is a little rare and if it is in good shape you might want to " keep it all original ".
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It can be done but you will need to install the correct ea82 drive shaft. You could also change out the tail shaft to the ea81 setup. Either one may be more than you may want to do but the drive shaft swap is fairly straight forward.
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That a good deal, to bad they will not ship to the USA.
- 73 replies
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- Ea81
- windshield
- windscreen
- wind
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I was told about a week ago by my glass installer that he can't get front seals anymore and the coupe rear window seals haven't been around for years. What gives?
- 73 replies
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- Ea81
- windshield
- windscreen
- wind
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I would be in for both coupe and Brat sets. I need to replace the windshield on my coupe and the rear window leaks.
- 73 replies
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- Ea81
- windshield
- windscreen
- wind
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My Brat had a similar problem and would not stay engaged when the button was released. I found that the end of the little spring loaded metal piece inside was worn round on the end. I filed it back flat and it has worked since. It is a little piece of rod about 2 tenths of an inch long and i/8th inch in diameter.
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Undo and remove the adjustment bolt in the center which leaves the bar to act as a sway bar of sorts.
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Do not leave it at 'zero' point, it will still be noisy. I made a similar mistake 20 years ago on my Brat and called an old Subaru mechanic I knew and was told to treat it like a small block chev. Do the sequence like the book says for order but for adjustment back them off till loose then take them down to 'zero' then tighten 3/4 of a turn and lock. I did this to mine and it ran for 15 years like that.
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Are you adjusting them all at once or using the sequence called out in the manual? If you are adjusting them all at once that would explain the noise.
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Calipers and rotors and still available a rockauto. Look up for a '90 as for some reason their system doesn't show all the parts if you look up for '88, '89 XT6. This is stock stuff not Brembo's.
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If you can find a SOHC 2.5 it should be exactly the same as doing a 2.2. It will be an obd 2 wiring setup but that has been done and is thought to be a better way to go. The only real problem you might have is using the EJ trans because if I remember correctly it is 25 spline and the Brat is 23 so you have to make a custom axle to fit or at least swap the stubs in the trans.
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You could get something like this and put it in the thermostat hose http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-3423/overview/
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I am surprised someone else hasn't answered already but here is what I can tell you. If it is an automatic car it is a bolt in. Swap the SPFI over to the EA81, again a bolt on. Rig up some hoses for the radiator or swap to the EA81 radiator and the rest is just small stuff. I think even the exhaust is bolt on. For a stick it might be a little more involved but if I remember correctly it is just a matter of mixing and matching parts but I don't use a stick.
