iluvdrt

bump can someone please answer my questions? i ask questions all the time and no one will answer them, but another person will get a 2 page thats cool responce to a hypothetical question which probably will not even happen. please help, i have no one else to turn to. thanks.

i can only read the first page of the mission 1. how do you get to read all these pages?

well i put the engine back into the offroader the other day(85 gl wagon ea82 5 spd d/r)after redoing the seals/gaskets and de- emissioning it, and i cant get the fuel pump to kick on. i checked the fuses and they are all ok. i dont think its getting power to the fuel pump. i checked the terminal and it didnt show any voltage, but i didnt check it with a multimeter. i dont have an ignition switch so i temporaly wired it up to a toyota ignition switch. now there are are only 4 wires coming out of the subaru harness that go to the switch and here is how i got it. 1 wire is the hot wire from the battery. 1 wire is the accesories. 1 wire is the starter, and the other wire im not sure about, so i connected the hot wire to it. when i connect the hot wire to the other two(not the starter) everything comes on but i cannot get the fuel pump to work. i took the fuel pump off and if i wire it directly to a battery it will work, but it doesnt seem to be pumping very hard, it is like a trickle. it also doesnt work very well. do i need the ign switch in order for the fuel pump to work? is there a fuse or connector somewhere i can check? do i just need a new fuel pump? also, how many fuel lines go into the carb? 2 right a big one feeding it, and a small one for the return. where does the other line coming out of the firewall go to. it is a small line next to what i thought was the fuel return line on the driver side below the wiper motor. its not the break booster. where is the vacume line for the heater selector located. i think it is on the passenger side and connects to that big round ball loking thing, which i havent removed yet, am i right? also what is that metal thing connected to the passenger side fender behind the head light , connected to the same bracket that holds the intake tube for the carb cover. i think it went to the charcoal cannister and is not needed. really other than the fuel problem she will run, a little rough, but i havent gotten to time her yet. please help me and any pictures would be greatly appreciated. thanks

i never got my confermation email from them. i can log on, but i cant post. same user name.

wouldnt it spin the diffs in directions because the axles are spinning in the same direction. in a real 4wd truck the driveshafts spin in opposite directions. so you would have to get some reverse rotation gears in one of the diffs...... i think.

im not sure about the the questions you asked but i still havent had any real takers on my free turbo, in case you need one. all im asking is for someone to pay shipping. pm me if your interetsd, it is in good shape.

mine has some rusted out holes in the rear qtr. panel. i will patck it with some aluminum diamond plate, like the jeeps have. i am done with the emissions now. i have to do the air filter housing. does anyone know what that stuff is inside it? im talking about the brass looking things with the vacume hoses attached. are they important? also where is the vent solenoid valve on the hitachi carb? do i need to plug that into the intake somewhere?

well here is a pic of my subies. the blue is a 87 gl10 turbo, and the grey is the new one from the junk yard i got. i just begun the engine fix. i am taking all the emission junk off, and putting on new timing belts. i will be installing a used turbo clutch from my other turbo engine(about 50%) and then hopefully it will run. the junk yard said when it was put in the car ran prior to the timing belt breaking, so keep your fingers crossed for me. i plan on making bumpers for it and installing a lift by the end of the year. this is a very tight budget build, so i am kind of coping out on some things, but they arent very important things. ill keep everyone updated. excuse thhe quality of the pic, walmart sucks.

well, i was really liking your idea of using atv tires and rims. they aseem to be pretty cheap, and they come in some pretty small sizes. of course the toyota 6 lug could be an option too, but the sizes of tires you can run with an agressive tread are pretty limited. right off the bat(assuming it still runs and i fix the steering) im going to lincoln lock the rear. i plan on doing the lift later, because i am do a new baby in july, so money restraints are tight. i have quite a bit of 1/4" thick aluminum diamond plate to make a skid plate and some rear rocker gaurds to replace the rust holes. sometime in the next 2 weeks, i will be making new bumpers and maybe a tire/ roof rack for it, as i also have plenty of nice stock laying around the shop. i took some pics so maybe i can post them soon:clap: . im pretty excited, this is my savior to offroading. i havent been in over a year, and it was my only hobby. thanks for showing interest and replying, noone else seems to care when i post stuff like this. probably cause im a noob.

well, i went and picked her up yesterday. i bought her, an 85 gl 5 wagon. no luxeries, just a plain jane d/r 5 spd ea82. she appears to be in better shape than i thought. the only real prob area is behind the rear wheels. it has rusted out. i think ill patch it up with some stainless steel sheets and then bondo over it. other than that its perfect. the timing belt broke on it so hopefully no engine damage has occured, and the radiator is gone. the inside of the carb looks brand new, no carbon build up anywhere. the steering colum is gone, but i have the wheel and turn signal switch. i do need an ignition switch with a key, so if anyone has one they can spare, help me out please. i also need some of the hard ware that keeps the steering wheel shaft in place inside the tube. over all the drive line looks ok, 1 busted cv boot, and the breaks might be frozen up(ill have to check this weekend). she has sat in the yard for 9 years, the owner said she was going to the crusher. i picked her up for $250, w/out a title. i know with out a pic its hard to tell, but does anyone think i got a good deal. oh the car also came with all the maintenance records in the glove box. it has 85k on the odo, and appears to have been well taken care of.

on my old 85 wagon, i broke 1 front axle and blew the struts through the towers jumping it. does that count?

thats a lot nicer than my primative attempt. thanks, for me, but where is the link at for helpful things, i cant find it.

mine had 187k on it when the h/g let go. i just bought another engine and put it in. the heads were cracked, and i didnt want to take the chance.

did you bench bleed the master cylinder? i know its not that important, but it will take longer to bleed them other wise. also try doing it this way passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. typically you always want to start with the one farthest away and work closer. if not gravity bleed. if that doesnt work, there is an open in the system.

well a relay is nothing more than an electric switch. when you wire it, it will have a power wire going in from the switch, a ground wire and a power wire going to the consuming object. so it should be wired like : switch- hot wire from source, hot wire to relay relay- ground wire, hot wire from switch into relay, other end of hot wire coming from relay going into the product. product- hot wire from relay, ground. battery+ground % = switch * = relay +ground @ = light+ ground {} = fuse battery++{}+++%+++++++*++++++@ why add the relay, i could understand if you wanted them work off another device, but since it has switch already, thats like giving it 2 switches. im pretty sure this correct, as its been while since ive done one.

i linked it for you. good to tool to have, i might be investing.

here is the link in case anyone woulod like to know a good way to check their engine or a possible buy for a bad h/g or rings. here is the link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13305

although ive never used it, here is an online manual: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

not only that, but the heat will be able to see you are towing something, and are trying to be safe. just get in the slow lane and put on your hazards.

if im not mistaken there is a little o-ring type gasket that should go around the cam holder piece . it would be on the side that bolts to the head.

subymech, what kind do you have?

i have a stack of big washers that i use to help pull the axle through the hub. i put enough on there to get the nut threaded and tourque it , take it off and add mre until its all the way in. just thought i'd add that.

well, i guess ill definatly have to remove one, as ill be using a tow dolly to transport it, or maybe driving it short distances. thanks.

cool, i think i may do that to the suby 3 offroad version 2. thanks. and i guess the draw back would be having a better chance of broken stub shafts and cv axles. of course the sqeaky tires on the dry stuff.

where is this event going to be held?