newsoobdude

Living in the Foothills of Central Cali, I see quite a few from EA82s to new. I myself have 6, a friend of mine has 15, a guy I know has 10 and I cannot go more than 5 minutes without seeing one on the road, but then again I live in a small town and see the same ones all the time:lol: .

I've heard of some forest service roads that go from Hwy 50 to Hwy 88, other than that everything I know of is in Amador County up Hwy 88. Subieman- You know anything about Burnside? I was up there last week and it was closed. I'm hoping to find out when/ if it will open to do some riding and wheelin.

It will be getting an EJ22 swap, D/r 5spd, and 6 inch lift. It will become my weekend wheeler/ camper and the BRAT my bike hauler:headbang: .

Well, I was finally able to get my dad to bring up Cyberbackpackers old GL Wagon I bought from him. I ordered new IM, Head and Valve cover gaskets 10 minutes ago from AutoPartsWarehouse and they should be here by the weekend so I can pull the engine out of the wagon and drop it into the Brat til I get it's engine built (SPFI Pistons, SPFI, Delta cammed:headbang: ) :banana: . Cannot wait to get it swapped in so I can FINALLY take the thing for a spin and take my bike out w/o having to borrow my friends truck. Wish me luck!

A lot of talk over the years about the EA82 front suspension swap into an EA81 (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/5inchlift.html), but no one talks about the rear. I've seen sk'o's B.A. BRAT and like the fact he has the EA82 front suspension with P/S and all, but his front track width is wider than the rear and I'd like equal track widths personally. I have a parts EA82 Wagon with ALL the goodies (PS, D/r, DOJs, rear struts) and am planning on swapping the suspension over to y EA81 Wagon that's going to get a 6 inch lift:headbang: via a modified version of McBrats writeup (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/5inchlift.html) and SJR bits. I'm just curious as to how to do the rear suspension due to the EA81 having trailing arms and EA82s not. I just want the EA82 rear track width the EASIEST way possible. Any help would be appreciated.

I've talked to Scott about that a couple of times and he does NOT want the liability of something breaking. IF I remember right, lifting an EA82 3 inches you can use a first gen (96-99) Legacy Outback steering coupler. It bolts right in and is the correct length. Somewhere in this section is the info on it. I'm going to be using SJR parts to lift both my EA81s (one is going 5 inch and the other 6 inch) and I'm going to have to have someone weld the steering shaft longer with parts from my other EA81s. As for steel vs aluminum, the steel will rust if not coated and the aluminum will not. I, personally, am not sure which one I'll be going with but it will probably be a mix of both. Good luck and enjoy.

Not fair!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want I want I wwwwwaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnntttttttttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Man do those make your ride look SIC!!!!! Couldn't ask for a better combo wheel wise with your color. 2 years to find though OUCH! My friend has a set of them that I might have to try and talk him out of for a future use and a guy up country from me has some on his Hatch 4X.

Joy, I'll have to start looking around for an EA81T tank and see what I can do.

I have my 86 Brat that I'm finally going to get running in the next month but was wondering since I'm going to be going SPFI in it later, will the SPFI fuel tank fit in the stock location on my Brat since my friend has on in his parts car. I'll be lifting it 4 inches anyways if it matters

Yeah, I was mistaken on the carb idle when cold it was around 11-1200. Finally got time to fiddle around with it and got it to idle when warm, just very low (500rpms). I did notice a vacuum sound coming from the carb itself that wont go away but.... None of the vacuum hoses are disconnected and the only things I've played with since getting the car is the round thing on the passenger side of the carb itself and the "valve" that is attached to it (mine originally spun freely and my parts cars one did not, so I switched the 2. I don't think my idle screw is working any more as I can turn it both ways and it really doesn't do much:confused: . I'm no engine genius, let alone carb. But it is running now while warm so:headbang: . I'll be taking it up to my Subie friend tomorrow to tinker on it some more.

Well, turns out I'm not going to able to get the Brats I posted above, not enough space for them so I'm going to be posting them in the FS section for my friend .

My 98 LOB Limited have the same dang high pitched whine coming from the rear. (Glad I'm not the only one who hears it. I hear the most high pitched annoying sounds, yet am deaf as a door nail for the most part.) Where is yours coming from? I'm thinking due to bheinen74s post, it might be my fuel pump because it's coming from the underside of the car. Doesn't bother me too much as I'm never really near the rear of my car with it running.

Anyone interested on one for their H6 equipped rides (SVX, Tribecca, Outback). Trying to get some interest to see about production and group buys. "Thermal spacers lift the intake manifold off the super heated engine to lessen the transfer of heat. Both the intake manifold and engine block are aluminum so the high heat transfers very quickly....well these spacers stop that. The cooler the intake charge the more HP and TQ your engine will make. In addition to cooling your intake charge, these will also give you larger intake volume similar to that of a throttle body spacer."

Durania, will do. Unfortunately it'll not be able to happen until Friday or Saturday. I don't think it's a factory box, but then again.....

Granted I haven't been able to take my Brat out yet, but mine doesn't have the straps behind the seat you are referring to. I do have the fun tops but a storage box in the middle behind the seats and am figuring if I take them off I'll just keep them in the garage, and if on and decide to take off I'll just open them up instead of removing them.

1988 GL 4X4 wagon with carbed EA82. When cold it idles fine at 750- 1000 rpms but when warm (running 5 minutes) it wont idle, period. Any one have any ideas? Sorry I'm not overly descriptive, I'm no good at describing things.

I had my Alpine in the top din first but when changing a CD with cups in the holder, I had to take the cups out and close the holder:mad: . Never had a problem with removing the face though. Moved it to the bottom and have had no problems with it whatsoever minus not being able to read the face with the glare:rolleyes: .

I'm doing a temporary engine transplant into my BRAT. It's a 275K mile EA81 and was wondering besides the HGs, Water Pump, Oil Pump, and seals, what else should I replace w/o splitting the block? I don't think I'll put more than 25K miles on the temp motor but figure I might as well replace AT LEAST the HGs due to overheating due to electrical gremlins and making sure the surfaces aren't warped.

+1. I did barely feel the one in Paso a few years ago (thought my dog bumped my bed).

How about July 26th everyone?

Driving is fun. Thankfully I live in a small town and have lots of nice twisty roads with elevation changes and all the goodies to race up and down:headbang: . Only down side is I have as much law enforcement in the 33k population county as in LA:eek: , so cannot really fly like I want to. If I get the need for speed bug, I wish I was back in LA where you CAN fly around and not have to watch your rear view for the cops.

Start posting dates that are good for ya'll and we'll go from there . Brian- no worries on space, I'm up in the air at the moment on everything when it comes to WCSS, might drive myself up and might not go at all, depends on $$$.

Interested in a 3rd person joining you? Gas prices been one of the reasons I haven't made definite plans on going even though I'd love to go.