woundedbrat

I used to have a 78 sr650 kawasaki It should have two sets of points under the cover also as for the gas leak the rubber between the carbs tends to dry out and shrink causing them to leak. The points can be cleaned by running some fine grit sand paper between them when they are closed, however afterwards you will need to re set the gap.As far as the carbs go if it is what i mentioned earlier you are in for a pricy repair. Oh yeah nice bike I always liked the classic kawasaki's andyou have the cast rims with the triple disks. I lived in california when the highway patrol was phasing out the kawasaki's for the bmw's and you could pick up a nice kz 1000 for about two grand.

That looks way newer than 83. what is it 91? never mind just saw the other thread.

Any body have any experience with a hydraulic winch something run off a power steering pump?

This is true but he did not specify that the front would be higher!

No that is how it appears on my ea81 brat.

Grab the tie rod and yank on it if there is any play at all it should be replaced.

I'm sure that eventually with a lot of therapy and drugs you will get over it. I would love to own a cobra even if it was just a kit car I guess I'm just not hung up on originality but feel that a car is not truly mine unless I customize It the way I want it.DIY

I would look at brakes then I would check motor trannie mounts.

I wouldn't do that. putting the diff at an angle like you describe would be hard on the driveshaft universals. this is what I did but I have seen many versions of these.

Maybe you just don't get it. I like most people on this board like the style of the older cars but realize the advantages of newer technology. Its not just subarus a lot of us have done engine upgrades on other vehicles. With the brat (and my bronco) the designs have been discontinued but we still want these cars and we want them to run/perform as if they were new:burnout:

Deisel in my brat:banana:

Scott talks about mods to the distributor. I see now that what he's talking about is the grey electronic thing that is usually on the distibutor is rewired so it can now be mounted elswhere. (I can't think of the name right now even though I had to buy one once for a bronco II I used to own ( cost about 60 bucks!).)

What are the mods to the distributor? from what I see you cut the (keys) so they fit into the cam.

can you turn the strut 180 degrees so the camber adjusters are inboard on the strut and make the bracket so the top mounts are on the inside and the bottoms are on the outside like they should be. ?

It sounds possible similar to what I did when lifting my brat With the adjustable camber you may need to design a system that lets you adjust it more as the longer strut will cause a positive camber \--/.

Prove it.

whats that tank hold It looks pretty big or maybe its just the pics.

salvage operations ?

Adjusted the mixture on my carb today and its all thanks to this thread. I had looked for the adjusting screw once before but couldn't find it. I wonder why they hid it behind that stupid roll pin maybe job security for suby mech/dealerships anyhow the hardest part was removing that roll pin, had to push it down and cut it off with my dremel repeat until it was out of the way. runs a lot better now turned the screw almost an entire rotation towards lean used to hesitate a bit going from idle to throttle but not any longer.Any how great thread thanks and keep em comming.

Thats good,when you first said conversation piece I envisioned it hanging on a wall with a lot of lame pinstrips swirls and what not.

Where'd you find that.

Put the rhd in but also keep the lhd controls now that would be awesome:headbang:

Sounds like a timing issue to me also. I assume its an EA81. have these gear driven cams ever jump a tooth is that even possible or was it possible put together wrong. Maybe the timing gear is worn out of spec. one way to check is to put the timing marks at tdc, remove distributor cap , turn crank pulley until you see rotor start to turn then look at timing marks and see how many degrees before movement. I had a bronco that wouldnt pass smog all the mechanics were stumped because they were looking at the smog controlls and everything checked out. I did this check got about 7 degrees of backlash, changed timing chain and gears and presto passed with flying colors.I beleive up to 4 degrees slack is acceptable hope this helps.

I have heard that the fluid couplings or vlsd take severa rotations for the friction to build in the fluid