carfreak85

If the leather is already cracking it's too late to reverse it. The "leather" in older Subarus is not leather, in many cases. I know the OEM "leather" in my wife's '99 Forester S has fabric glued to the back, if that tells you anything... Any leather cleaner/protector from a reputable brand will be fine, just follow the directions. If you do indeed have fake leather, just use vinyl or automotive interior cleaner on it.

You have my list...

Oh, I know what you meant by it, which is why I told you to cut it the **** out. I also provided you with the etymological history of that insult, so that you would know where it began and what the original connotation was, I expect they don't teach much U.S. history up in B.C.

Soooooo, any word on this? I'm happy to offer my services going forward. I'd like to see the show keep going.

Hey kid, lose the ******* attitude. I wasn't going to comment on this thread because there is nothing of interest here, but I'm not going to judge. It's your car though, do with it as you please. However, you clearly don't understand the origins of your "insult". I suggest you rethink your use of that term, you never know when you might run into someone bigger and meaner than you who doesn't appreciate being called a snowflake. "In the 1970s snowflake was a disparaging term for a white man or for a black man who was seen as acting white. It was also used as a slang term for cocaine. But before either of those it was used for a time with a very particular political meaning. In Missouri in the early 1860s, a "Snowflake" was a person who was opposed to the abolition of slavery—the implication of the name being that such people valued white people over black people. The Snowflakes hoped slavery would survive the country's civil war..."

That wagon is the coolest thing I've seen today!

Aftermarket ALKs will have stiffer bushings vs the soft bubblegum of the OEM Forester mounts, if that does anything for you. My plan on my '02 WRX is to keep the stock geometry and replace the soft bushings with MSI graphite-impregnated polyurethane bushings. This will eliminate the awful play the stock bushings allow without introducing some quirks associated with the ALK.

OK Paul, I spent some time climbing in and out of the '75 4WD wagon and I came up with a tentative list of things I wouldn't mind having: Shift knobs, both Rear hatch wiper bracket (the big gold zinc plated thing) Hatch trim panel (or template to make my own) Steering wheel Non-A/C HVAC panel, black Non-A/C glovebox, black HVAC temp knob Black front/rear seats or upholstery Gauges with tach Ignition switch may be seized Driver's side interior door release handle air cleaner assembly Mud flaps Also any other fun accessories/goodies/whathaveyous that you have for this vehicle

When did folks start mixing and matching lift heights between the crossmember and strut tops? Back in my day () if your strut mounts were a 4-inch lift, you dropped your crossmember 4 inches. Three inch strut spacers? Three inch crossmember blocks... Seems like a pretty simple concept to me, but all the Forester guys keep asking why they're tearing axle boots. Gee, I wonder why...

What are you looking to get for the lot? Give us a starting point, this isn't an auction house.

It's one of those new-fangled aftermarket axles. OP, most of us stay as far away from aftermarket axles as possible. Your axle is hitting the frame because it's not OEM and the axle shaft is oversized. Check your engine and transmission mounts for tears, check your suspension and subframes for accident damage.

We have the "no AWD/inconsistent AWD" engagement issue on our 1999 Forester. There are times when I mash the throttle in the snow and the front wheels dig like crazy while the rear end just hangs about until you lift off the throttle, then BANG!!! AWD engages as if nothing was wrong. Even feels inconsistent when shifted into 1-2 on the AT shifter. I've read this is caused by the Duty-C solenoid but also center diff clutch pack could be going bad. I also read a TSB that suggested swapping to a later TCU that had a less harsh AWD engagement program. I'm not sure where to start.

There is a decent blue dash up here in a BRAT in the yard. Only a few minor cracks on the driver's side.

Extra cost is why it was left off the AT vehicles. The weight increase is negligible, but is being added to the heavy end of the car.

KYB Shock Part Numbers for 1986 Subaru GL 4WD

You'll need a fuel surge tank, your stock fuel tank doesn't have any baffles.

...and the point the author was making, which you are choosing to overlook, is that because BOTH LED and HID light sources are drastically different than that of an incandescent filament, they are BOTH unsuitable as a plug and play bulb. LEDs are not "exactly" like HIDs, but they ARE wrong for an incandescent lamp housing for the "exact" same reasons. Also, HIDs are not a "point" of light, the shape of their output is an arc, with glowing electrodes.

I'll start off by saying I have no problem with HID or LED. They are brighter than incandescent bulbs, can be more reliable. When someone does a true retrofit of OEM-designed parts into a different lamp housing, like Turbone did on his RX, they can reap massive increases in night vision. The flip side is, of course, the cheap "plug 'n' play" HID/LED blubs that people mistakenly believe improve their forward lighting (Spoiler alert: they do not). True retrofits are not the point of contention here. If you are taking the entire LED (or HID) assembly and swapping it into a different housing, I can get behind that. I'm currently working on a RX350 bi-xenon HID retrofit into JDM STI bugeye headlamps. However, if you believe that just slapping a LED bulb into any old lamp housing is somehow better, you're kidding yourself. The only assumption between HIDs and LEDs in the article I posted is that they both have different sources of light compared to an incandescent bulb. The SHAPE of the light source has more to do with beam pattern than just about any other factor. Incandescent bulbs have a straight, line shaped light source that is brighter at the ends of the line "____", HIDs have an arc shaped light source that is brightest in the middle " ) ", while LEDs are s single point of light "." There is more surface area in the light source of an incandescent filament and thus the reflectors must be designed with this in mind. When a plug 'n' play LED blub is slapped into that same lamp housing, the reflector doesn't magically rearrange itself to optimize the physical light emitting characteristics of the LED.

Please read this before upgrading your forward lighting: Thinking of converting your halogen headlamps to HID or LED?

The glovebox door uses its own, small key. I was lucky enough to find a key and matching glovebox lock in a car in the junkyard years ago, which I happily swapped into my wagon.

People need to be able to think critically for themselves. If we give a few options on where/how to source parts we expect the person on the receiving end to do a bit of research on their own. If the recommended (dealer) part is too expensive for the OP, it is on them to seek out equivalent alternatives, not mine. The old adage about teaching a man to fish comes to mind. The affordability of dealer parts is up to the end user. When I was in high school and college and living on a tight budget I would usually lean towards the least expensive option, often to have that part fail shortly after. Now that I'm an adult with a solid job and a dual income household (no kids) I have zero problem going to the dealership for parts, especially when I know there is a massive gap in quality between OEM and aftermarket, as is the case with head gaskets and other parts, such as EA81 intake manifold gaskets.

Manufacturers are only required to stock replacement parts for seven years after the model ends production, so consider yourself lucky when you can still buy a 32-year-old hood release cable from the dealership...

Dealership is always the safest bet, but if you do some research you can find the OEM parts much cheaper online.

I'll see what I can do about a "Wanted" list for the '75.

I agree with @Imdew, you need to adjust the latch to tighten the hatch to the body when shut.