tcspeer

If you are at the point of wanting another engine, I would first try some Gold Eagle stop leak. It worked wonders on stopping my rear seal leak. I was thinking it may be leaking at the valve stem seals if you are not losing power. But I dont know if the Boxer engine would leak their with the way it is placed.

I dont know how the air is controled, I do know their is the mass air flow device and idle air control maybe one of these could be giving problems. Did you see if a code would come up.

I would think the fuel injectors are O.K. If this was a fuel problem wouldn't it most likely spit and sputter. With the explanation of dying like the key is turn off I would think electrical. May be something cutting air off also.

We had this very same problem with a 1992 Buick, It turned out to be the little wire connector that bolted to the coil pact was loose almost to the point of falling off. I would look over the wiring and make sure nothing is loose.

I think we would have seen a smiley face had he got a new car. But if the people that helped him was as good as the ones that helped me Iam sure he is happy.

It may be a good ideal to document this as MTSMITHS suggested, however I know a lot of us here have learned about trapped air by getting our own cars hot, and I have not seen anyone post about trouble later. I did get a Dodge Colt so hot one time that it blew the head gasket.

If you have a Harbor Freight store near you they sell a Giant 1/2 in breaker bar get it and use the pipe you have and P.B. blaster as suggested and it will come off.

O2 sensor,Thats better than coil pact if I remember right my coil pact was not cheap to replace.

Sounds like a coil pact. Easy to check with meter or by pulling codes.

I agree its air, I never seen this problem with others cars I have had, But it happens ever time with my Subaru when I have to refill my system with coolant. I have always been able to let mine cool and then add coolant till full, then start and idle with cap off and heater on and add coolant as it goes down.

Sounds like you got a good deal on that one!

Sorry, Luckily I have not had to do this so I cant help. Did you search in the search feature here? I do not recall much talk on this subject. You also might find help in the Haynes Manuel.

I had a rear seal leaking in my 97 2.2 at around 100,000 miles, I put the Gold Eagle stop leak in and it stopped leaking and was still not leaking when I replaced the engine at 288,000 miles. I am a big fan of these products that have the chemicals to gently expand the seals. I never had to replace a cam seal in this engine. Subaru replaced one when it was in warranty. I did have to replace the crank seal twice.

Dont kid yourself about Crafstman, most of their tools are now being made in the same places as Wal Mart (China) I just bought a Whirlpol Air Cond. from Sears a couple of weeks ago and it was also made in China. The fact that China makes most things is not the problem, what I dont like is the fact that our Gov. takes our tax money and help our factories move through the Agency Of International Devolpment. And now soon under GATT it will be a violation of law to post on the products what country they were manufactured in. I know this is a post about tools, but Crafsman is not the same as long ago.

I have had good luck with Wal Mart tools, as long as you dont get the cheap ones they have. After Christmas you can sometime get their Stanley tools really marked down. Also the Great Neck tools from Auto Zone are not bad.

When I done my belt by the Haynes manuel I brought # 1 to T.D.C. then when I took the covers off, the directions I remember then said to rotate the engine with belt on to line the mark, so I guess that then put the pistons in the middle. I had no trouble the first time going slow by the book, but the next time I tried to do it by memory and I used the wrong mark on the crank spocket. Lucky for me the engine was already shot or I would have surley ruined it. I think to figure out how many times that engine would have to rotate to line every thing back up would require the use of that pie number I heard the teachers say we would need after we got in the real world. To bad I dont remember that one.

Surely the marks on the belt will line up again sometime, Where are the engineers that can figure out how many rotations it would take?

Frag, I was on your side of this debate last year and went round and round with O.B.W. but he finnally proved his point to me. If the belt is on, their is only one top dead center. With the belt off it dont matter the crank makes two turns to the cams one. So you can have T.D.C. at what used to be the exhaust stroke. Iam thanksful that someone made the job eaisly for me.

My son has a truck that had a squeek he could never find, so he ask me to help him, ever time I rode it would not do it. So finnaly he got out and let me drive sure enough it started then. It was the seat lock device on passenger side, setting there would stop it and getting out would start it again. A little grease stopped it and it has not started back in years.

My love of mirrows came from many years of running a large haul unit on Const. jobs, no back window to see out. It takes a while to trust them but it comes with time. Another good trick when changing lanes is to slow just a little and any car in blind spot will appear in mirrow. However I dont think the radio transmission to race drivers is telling them when to change lanes, most likely that is used to warn of danger ahead. When I speak of mirrows I am taking about the ones that come on the car, and then adding the little blind spot mirrow to it.

Torque wrenches are funny, sometimes you think they ought to click and they just wont do it. I would check it with the old fashion kind that has the pointer needle. Most likely you just havent got there yet.

Go for it. Sometimes the crank pully bolt can be tough to get off. I use the big chain wrench from Harbor Freight, not the little chain vise grips. Wrap your pully with a peice of the belt that is on it I cut mine to fit and then use duct tape to hold it. when going back together be sure and use the timing mark on the little tangs, of crankshaft spocket and not the arrow on the face of the spocket. More than one of us have made this mistake.

Dont take them out when it is hot, also if it is like my 97 2.2 it is best to take washer tank off and out of way.

If I had any concern I would replace them, cheap peace of mind. Surely they dont cost to much.

If you are on the adjuster you will fell the spring on it as you push in an out on it. Get you a small long nail and put a 90 bend in the end that way you can get to it easily. When you get on it push it away from you, get the larger screwdriver and get under star wheel and push handle down towards the ground. If all else fails get the puller with three arms and pull it off. The hold down clips will pull loose from the pins and you can then replace them with a new spring kit. This is how I do my 97 Legacy maybe it will work on the older ones also.