Gloyale

It absolutely will cause the Revs to be limited to about 4200 RPMs. Also CAN cause running on 3cyls......#1 injector is cut out when ECU senses it can't properly control idle.....which if it thinks you are stopped when you are moving and RPMs are much higher than expected (cause your rollling when it thiks you are sitting still) it will do this to prevent runaway revving like from a major intake leak or other issue.

I can confirm this too. There is a blank "button" were the EGR pipe would go......but it is flat.........no hole in the center like EJ25 and 95+ EJ22 heads. The 90-94 heads just don't have the same inner shape to the water jacket to allow for threading. They cannot be tapped for EGR any way that I can see. The later heads have a depression in that button, start of the inner hole.....these CAN be tapped for EGR.

No need to take carb off to clean out the jets/emulsions and rebuild the upper half. Only time I ever remove them is if base gasket is leaking, or throttle shaft so bad whole carb needs replaced (only needed to do that once) otherwise, I just take the top off and the plugs out of the bowl and clean it/rebuild it all like that on the manifold.

Do you mean "backup" like the reverse light circuit? Or "backup" like key off battery 12v+ backup? What size fuse and which # on the fuse board?

Maybe.....but actually if the intake HLA's were not pumped up then he wasn't getting full lift/intake opening. I know I can feel the difference when I properly adjust valves on the Solid ones.....makes sense that fully pumped up would make a few more ponies than collapsed.

A tranny jack or even a floor jack will help with this. I completely disagree. You can buy a creeper and a trans jack cheaper than an engine hoist. No fuel lines to disconnect....no lose of coolant.....no need to even remove the y-pipe on later models.... But it does come down to personal circumstances and preferences. Some people cannot stand being under a car.....me I can't stand doing extra unneeded steps.

OE type thermostats are bigger pellet and spring, larger throat opening. Light weigth crappy ones are aftermarket replacements that are sub-standard to the OE. IF you pulled a wimpy one out, it's not the original.

I bet you are the kind also to keep his battery and Alt. in tip top shape.... I wasn't advising "messing" with the wiring in the car. If you look at my relay bank, you will see that it's made to plug right into the factory sockets.....and supplied power from the battery through a fuse and fusible link. Silverstars may not increase the Amp load too much....IDK.....but I know that I get lots of cars.....some even newer Imps and Legos that have burned up connectors from running extra bright bulbs.....perhaps not specifically silverstars.....but have seen it many, many times.

That's why it stripped You need a 4mm. Might still come out with that.

Flipping the mount you need clearance directly above the shock. Where the shock nut/washer/rubber are on top. I Used a big punch hit with the hammer to keep the bashing centered where it was needed. There is a hole in the layers of sheet stamping right where it needs to be just punch that up 1/2" or so.

Well technically he'll get whatever amps the bulbs need......and not a mA more. Which at 14.5v 100 watts will draw 6.89 amps. Ever try it in an 32 year old car? 81 is an old model....with the old wiring setup (glass fuse) and the cars are getting older all the time. Copper corrodes too. Keep the volts high with a good battery and Alt.....and if your ignition switch is good....the 2 bulbs toghether on the grounded side of the circuit carry roughly 15 amps back to the battery (@ 13v+) The stock wiring was barely rated for that. Now......add brighter bulbs......and 30 years of time to that. First time that the bat or alt drop off a bit, and the voltage to the lights drops to 10.9 now your up to almost 20 Amps on the circuit. The corroded copper contacts just can't take it. Just cause it didn't happen to you, doesn't mean it can't happen.....it does.....I keep new sockets in stock and replace half dozen or more every year. The older the more likely to be burned up

Brake booster.

MAybe the IAC hose got cracked or dislodged? That or some other vac or unmetered air leak/s

Did you remove and blow out the emulsion tubes??? 4 of them....2 are under brass caps the other 2 screw out directly. It sounds like the primary main emulsion tube and the secondary slow emulsion are clogged. Probably the secondary worst of all. If you do not want to remove them or they won't come out (sometimes the brass strips out.) You can remove the bowl plugs.....and try removeing the jets at the bottom of the bowl. Then with the brass caps removed blow compressed air through the tops of the tubes. Were goggles....avoid spraying gas everywhere if you can.....don't blow the ball out of the accel pump and lose it. Also, did you remvoe the air horns and replace the orings between them and the carb base? that too is a must. With all that said.....this is a carbed car. They need to warm up. It really isn't unreasonable to have to warm the car up for at least 2-3 mins before driving.....and if you don't you gotta forgive a bit of hesitation. This is just true for any carbed rig and something that older generations just expected to have to do.

Cracked head. The turbo heads almost always develope cracks in the exhaust port where the divider between the 2 chambers joins the wall. Can be welded. But not that economical. You can keep driving it like that if you keep up the coolant level. Not great for the turbo but I'd just keep nursin' er along til you are ready to EJ swap it.

Seats won'[t "bolt up" but can be done pretty ewasily with a few pieces of flat stock. Steering wheel their are aftermarket kits. Rear sway bar? you'd need the sway bar and the rear trailing arms from an XT or RX model. None of the others had the mounts. there is a 2wd XT here in Corvallis at the wrecking yard. (B+R) that would get you the bar but you'd still need the 4wd arms with mounts. And the FWD sway bar is like 12mm or something small. Turbos and XT6 got 19 or even 21mm bars.

Nah.....they both just pop off. 2 different sizes though. That's why the remans don't have them though....cause they pop off when they clean the cups.

Easy to install a manual in one if you wanted. But......uhh........the H6 will not save you any on gas that's for sure. Probably get better gas mileage out of the 2.5T if you stay out the go pedal.

I agree. If it's leaking water out that bad, some of it's getting into the oil. Which will kill the rod bearings. Conditioner is to prevent leaks in newer engines. (subaru wanted them to make it out of warranty) that's why it was introduced. Will not "fix" a leak that bad. Do the headgaskets, surface the heads (they are all .02mm off on the bottom "back" edge....factory tool deflects as it exits the cut) Don't let the engine get ruined if you do it with the T-belt it'll save labor.

I'll bet he'll burn up the stock sockets. They were not designed for high amps. Getting 13+v to the lamps will help more and be an upgrade suitable to put the higher amp bulbs in.

You might want to save those 2 axle nut washers. They are a spring washer with a slight dome, and you need them to properly secure the hubs. I'd look at the rig and make sure you have them on all 4 axlenuts. Someone may have left them off in the past.

Set them up with Relay power straight from battery to bulbs. Make sure to also provide a short, relay switched path to ground to do the triggering from the light switch. I ussually use 4 relays. 1 per side that provides 12v+ from battery to the common pin of the bulb. And one that grounds BOTH bulbs lo beam side when ground triggered by the switch......and one to provide ground path to both bulbs high beam side when switched to high. like this.... This setup plugs into the stock sockets but you could splice into the OE wiring anywhere you like on the circuit. This is using standard fuji relays.....you could do with just 3 relays or even 2 if you used Bosch style w/ 87/87a pins to switch.

There should be 2 solenoids on the Drivers side strut tower. Just like the Single Range 5spd pt4wd boxes. 2 hoses to the diaphragm one from each solenoid. Electrical switch turns on one or the other solenoid. Both solenoids should be supplied with vacuum from the resevior on the other side strut tower. Being turbo, there should be a check valve in that line too.

So those are higher prices for the new than you stated and higher mileage on the yard cars so your already backtracking..........but i digress. The place I pay to clean and test injectors uses and ultrasonic cleaning machine and a precision calibirated computer measurement system that truly verifies sustained flow at a given rate for a period of time similar to real world use. All for $18 per injector and supplied with new FI rated O-rings sealed in little bags with a printout I can show the customer......Value added product big time. Totally worth it. You cannot beat that.......especially not at home with "cleaner and a battery". WASTE OF TIME!!!! It's so cheap and such a great service.....again........Why would you run used, unkown injectors from a car you don't even know if it ran or not..........instead of PROFESSIONALLY CLEANED AND TESTED??? To save $40 bucks??? There's better way's to spend both the time and the money. I can just imagine telling my customers.......yeah.......I just tossed some junkers in there and said F_it...it's waaay better than cleaned and tested......I swear....... They would run not walk from my shop. You do whatever you want to your car but that is bad advice there buddy and I will say it as long as you profess it to be good.

You kinda have to use both the 88 GL/GL-10 turbo engine wiring diagrahm and the 88 XT Spider manifold diagrahms and transpose them. The real B-tch is that the 87's one of the main engine connectors is a big weird square instead of round like later. And I suspect they have the flip flopped pins for Ref. and Sig. to the disty from ECU. All the 87's are like that for some reason even SPFI??? go figur....