Gloyale

For me it's ussually been 6 full rotations. If it's still moveable by hand, you likely need another 360. If it gets tight before or just after your mark that's probably it. you won't be able to go an "extra" 360 if your there already.......you would know when you have to force it that hard.

Sorry I missed that I had already posted this info. And you are correct, in 95+ Alts the sense wire is jumpered directly to the battery, and not tied to the IG. circuit. Still though, the cahrge wire is not the sense wire and it isn't switched 12v. It's the ground leg of the charge light and will only measure voltage until the ALT grounds it when Key on/eng off. Start the car, voltage goes high on that post and turns off the light.

Yeah, that needs a sleeve.

Unlikely to fall off but it could if it got bad enough. It would most likely need the spindle nut to come off, which it could if the stub starts walking around too much in the loose bearing and getting hot.. Also, the brake caliper bracket would try to hold the rotor from coming all the way off. I actually had a buddy drive back up from california (800 miles)and lost his spindle nut along the way, the wheel was being held on solely by the brake capiper bracket. It had eaten through the outer pad, and ground half the outer bracket off. It probably wouldn't have made it another 100 miles.

This is the layout for a 90-94 legacy. Switched power on the yellow wire is for the sense wire. THIS should be hooked to IG.switched power or it can cause a drain. Black/white wire is the Charge light. 2 seperate cicuits. The current coming through this line is Switches, but it's the negative side of the Charge light, so any voltage measured on that wire will be the "return" current to ground, and will go to zero when grounded illuminating the light. DO NOT HOOK 12v pos to the CHARGE post.

5 spds from turbo car will be 3.7, whether its single range, dual range, part time or full time 4wd All the non turbos are 3.9

86 and up door glass is all the same.

Yes a couple do

If the heads are off, you can pop out the pistons and remove the rod caps with an extension, through the opposite cylinder. So technically you could change just rod bearings without splitting case, but I wouldn't recommend it. You can't access the crank pins to measure and clean. Main bearings obviously require splitting the case

No you are wrong Mikeleda. The Charge wire and the sense wire on 90-94 EJ alts are 2 seperate circuits. Charge wire is White/red in the EA cars. IN an EJ swap you do not need to do anything except connect this White/red wire to the terminal that the B/W wire on the EJ alt used. DO NOT give 12v to that line direectly. If you measure voltage while disconnected on that wire with key ON you get a bit less than 12v, but that is only because the 12v is passing through the lamp, trying to get back to ground. That wire isn't actualy providing the sense function. It does serve to excite but won't surfice for regulation. You need the sense wire that was originally yellow in the EJ cars. On early alts this needs to be switched power. The sense wire is indeed tied directly to the same yellow wire that supplies the ECU with IG. switched Voltage. Later EJ alts eliminated this Yellow wire, and tied that function right into the Battery line. I believe though that these alts are diesigned to function this way so they don't drain batteries like the early ones would if hooked up all the time.

Any engine pulling or sliding forward requires removing more bolts, and draining the coolant. Not to mention powersteering and AC belts and pumps, And fuel lines for removing engine. I just can't justify wasting coolant and R+R'ing more bolts/parts. I guess a good tranny jack and a creeper make the world of difference.

Also, the trans can be opened up, and the stubs in the front diff swapped over to 23 spline. We do the opposite to run D/Rs in new gen cars.

You can also make a thin plate that bolts on between the throttle body (use the 90-94) and the 99 intake. This plate can be the block off for the IAC so no welding involved. THe Dude......your gonna need XT6 rear hubs to switch to 5 lug. Fronts are easy (i hear) but the rear needs either the XT6 rear hub or a crossbreed kit from AUS.

+1 When running lifted over stock geometry, the boots are constantly stretched and can drop futher than the factory setup. Sliding the inner clamp in towards the joint will keep them from tearing prematurely.

I seldom question GD, but in this case his description of how to do this is wrong. First off, there is on;y one wire at the sender so you can't run one wire to ground and then completing the circuit through the OP switch? Second, you cannot "ground" the relay coil through the sender. It ALWAYS has some resitance to ground, so it will always ground the coil. Besides, Loyales don't have a gauge (ussually) Like I said.....you would need to use a relay that opens when the light goes on, and closes to complete the circuit through the OP switch when the light goes out. A common GM/Bosch with 85/86 for coil, 30 connects to 87a when "off", connects to 87 when "on". SO you would run the12v to the 85 and 30 terminals, run the OP switch wire to the 86, and power out to the pump to 30. When "off" 12 v will run through the 30 to the 87a and power pump. When "on" (light on) the 30 will connect to 87(nothing, pump off) GM's and others that use the OP as a fuel pump safety use a switch with 3 poles.....one for the light, and 2 that complete a seperate path for either the ground, or 12v....through the switch. 2 seperate ciruits in those switches.

I don't think so. the "sleeves" are cast into the blcok, and they aren't very thick.

The injector wires are paired. Where they go through connectors, they seperate, double up though the connector, then are crimped back toghether. The XT's develope injector problems when teh crimps in the harness get corroded. I would test the continuity end to end from the ECU to the engine on the injector wires. Should be less than 5~10 ohms.

Power from the key to positve of pump. And a relay that has a normally closed(87a), passing the ground though to the pump. Ground the coil side relay through the OP switch, so the pump runs only when the light is out. If the light goes on (grounded) then it will open the relay turning off the pump. This could be done, but it's a weird workaround

Again. The OIl pressure switch connects to ground when there is no oil pressure. Opens (turns off light) when engine is running. Will not work to control fuel pump. Also, the fuel pumps are not in the tank. None of them on EA82 or EA81 cars. They are under the car, in front of the rear wheel well passenger side. All carbed EA81 and EA82 cars used the FPCU. They aren't hard to find at all. I've got litterally dozens of them. Even the Fuel injected loyales with auto seatbelts also used them, to tell the seatbelt timer wether the car was running or not. This is all irrelavent because swapping an FI car to carbed is a downgrade. The FI systems are super simple, easy to replace the few things that can fail. To the OP. I would highly recommend keeping the EA82 engine. Do a timing belt job, reseal the engine so it doesn't leak, and keep driving it. Swapping to an EA81 is a downgrade unless you have an extreme aversion to OHC engines.

I"ve got a silver door and a white door. PM me if you want either of them. I could possibly meet you in Sweethome to deliver.

"stroker" rods made for putting a 2.5 crank into a 2.2 might be just the right thing. They are shorter than 2.5 rods, have the same 48mm crank pin should fit EA82 crank, and correct wristpin size for EJ pistons?

An EA81 with any carbuerator would be about the same work. He would absolutle not need to add a pickup to the tank. And no need to splice in a fuel pump in the engine bay. A low pressure pump can be added right where the EFI pump lives now. Fuel pump wiring could be a standard subaru Fuel Pump control unit. Give it 12v Batt, 12v IG. ground and a tach signal. Then run the control wire to the pump. I know, sounds complicated but it's a super simple device. Grounding a pump control through the Oil Light switch would turn the pump OFF when the engine is running......unless you use a different switch. NOW......after addressing that......there is an alternate way. The Loyale intake manifold, and entire fueling system will bolt right onto an EA81. The EA81 disty needs modified as per GD's SPFI swap right up. The IAC needs flipped. After that bolt it on. Use an EA82 water pump and extension tube and use all EA82 radiator hoses. Power steering is the one issue you may run into. Pump might need relocated, or use an EA81 power steering pump.

This isn't the problem. Unless the diff is run completely out of oil the sidebearings will be fine. They hardly ever wear, let alone become "completely shot". The gears will fail from low fluid way before the bearings will. As I said. The Bearing cup tightens or loosens the DIFF CARRIER side bearings. The diff bearing isn't the issue, it's the slop between the stubs, and the spiders they slip into INSIDE the diff carrier. There is no way to tighten this without replacing the spiders and stubs. Even brand new ones have a bit of wobble. Properly done, there wouldn't be any harm in inspecting the bearings. PROPERLY DONE, is the key. Messing with the bearing cups without knowing what your doing, or without marking and reinstalling properly, is a quick way to ruin your ring & pinion. To the OP......I'm telling ya, new axles commonly make noise. If you've got a reciept, I'd try taking it back and trading for another.

A piece of flatbar across the floor of the trunk, with tabs on each end that go up each rear strut tower and bolt to them. Then run your bolts up through the floor through that flatbar with some big washers. A box piece that craddles over the original "beam" and meets the floor is a good idea too.