Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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So, your gonna have an EGR code. No EGR with an EGR ECU = CEL.......common on 2.5-2.2 swaps when EGR isn't used. No biggy. EA thermoswitch? I would ditch that and let the ECU control the relay. You could tie the thermoswitch in as a backup trigger for the relay. But it isn't nessecary. The EJ fan control works great. I trust it more than the thermoswitches which I've seen fail numerous times. The pin should be on the ECU....just needs a wire in the connector to attach to it. If there is no pin there on the ECU, then you probably are gonna have to live with that code too.
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If you've got the proper 95 diagrahm, and know to user that it really isn't an issue. ECU's seldom fail, so needing another once your fully installed, is unlikely. So, one at a time. Is there an EGR vavle on teh engine? or just blcoked off. Do you have a Fan relay installed? Is the ECU triggering your electric fan/s? ECU is from Auto car, it want's to see a live TCU on that input circuit. I am not sure if that ECU can be tripped to Manual mode. If it can, you will need to add a pin for the missing Nuetral switch wire.
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Be careful. 95 Lego uses an ECU with the same connector as later 96-98,99, but with a completely different pin arrangement. You must make sure you use only 95 wiring diagrahms, and if you ever need another ECU, it must be for a 95. Kinduv a bummer that you used that harness/ECU.....It's the one model I ussually tell people NOT to use as an EJ donor swap.(not the electronics anyhow. 95 engines are fine just use a 90-94 or a 96-98 harness/ECU/Intake.
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Indeed. It's even reinforced with 3/8 plate under the very center. It got smashed and dented at the Mounaintop Mud Bogs competition. Dented the pan pretty good too thorugh the plate. I am sure I would have destroyed the pan if there had been no plate or even just a stock plate. New one is in the works.
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D/R's barely hold up to EJ swaps in light old EA cars. My buddy with a D/R in his legacy blows front axles, and whole trannies all the time. I like the lighter chassis with more HP/weight ratio. Oh yeah, I also hate sitting (and espescially wheeling) in a car with an explosive device in the steering wheel right in front of my face (airbag)
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Long travel Bilsteins. I think the application is for a lifted Toyota 4-runner. I did build and weld some perches to take the shocks. You can get almost the same results bolt in using Chevy S-10 rears. I just used these cause they are aluminum highend jobbies I got from the wrecking yard and a bit longer travel.
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Probably more likely to find the whole pump. Either new, or look in the for sale section on the board here.
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Gloyale replied to xbeerd's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXThe VC should hold more than tight enough for this test, without any spinning. If you want to get a sense of the grip it has jack up only one tire, and then try to spin it. You might be able to budge it a little if you strain. I am thinking that this trans has a 1.1:1 transfer ratio, and should be paired to a 3.7 rear diff. On the upside, the gearhack chart shows this to be the Helical LSD variant of the 02 Legacy GT-B 5 spd.
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Gloyale replied to xbeerd's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXRepeat the test. If you can't get them to turn 1:1 then there is a mismatch in the diff. Definately repeat the test until you have consitant results. Weren't there some JDM trans that used non- 1:1 transfer gears?
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Gloyale replied to Clippers's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXSounds more like a Throttle position sensor. Check it's adjustment. If the "closed/idle" contacts are closing a bit early, it can cause fuel cut a light throttle coasting. Then you have to stab the gas to get it back. ussually accompanied by a bit of bucking, espescially in a M/T car. Cam sensor going out wouldn't be helped by flooring it, if anything the opposite. Could also be a faulty fuel pump. Perhaps install a gauge and drive for a bit and watch the pressure when it's stumbling. If the pressure runs low, that could be why a Full Throttle fuel dump could be just enough umphh to kick in and run again.
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1.6 or 1.8?
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He has not determined that the belt isn't broken. And why on;y if it was an 86? almost everything you stated would be applicable to any EA82. Again.....this will be wasted time because he has either a broken t-belt or lost the rotor screw. My bet is on the t-belt as ussually there is some spark and backfireing if just the rotor is spinng free.
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His 5 speed is only single range.
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Your probably getting EA81 wires. Brats and hatches were still made in 87, and they are also "GLs" so the listing get fubared. Espescially in areas where Subarus aren't common. Like North Carolina. Order a set of wires for a 91 loyale. These will be correct.
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Gloyale replied to soobie_newbie67's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXIs the speedometer working properly? Is the AT Temp light flashing on startup?
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That's a pretty big assumption. Those welds don't look controlled enough to NOT have transfered heat to the interior wall.
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So, I've been working on my suspension alot latetly. Got the rear super dialed in. 11 inches of travel!!! WOOT WOOT!! But now I need to work on the front. First try: This worked well for the upper shock mount, and the general location. Also, it was super easy to do by hammering a bolt between the channel that made the sway bar mount. Problem is, the bolts stick down low adn got hung up, also, I felt like my down travel was limited. So on to design # 2: I like this setup alot better. While doing this mod I also added 2" to the lift blocks on top of the struts. Also used some aftermarket springs that were on the a De-air suspesnsioned 92 Legacy. This combo is Muuy Bueno!!! 13 inches clearance at the Front Diff!! 4inches of travel Wish that was better, but I can certainly live with it. Questions? Comments? Pics of your mods? Discuss
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Gloyale replied to glkiller2's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXFemale spade connectors will slip right on to the spades on the Alt.
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Gloyale replied to stevetone's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXI've had "new" ones make alot of noise, click clack, and on automatic cars cause vibration when stopped in gear. It's a crap shoot. "new" isn't nessecarily better.....especially when they are cheap and from China.
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Gloyale replied to glkiller2's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXWhich store? It would be nice to figure out what stores and rebuilders have these bad alts. I think these alts would work if the wiring in the car were changed a tad. Cut the yellow wire and leave it off, jumper 12V constant from the main lead over to the pole on the alt for the yellow wire. This is basically how the newer alts are already.
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It's for the tool pouch. SInce there is no trunk or storage compartments.
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Gloyale replied to glkiller2's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXThese ad ethe excact symtoms off the bad alt. try unplugging the alt and the. Try to start the car. The Cel should be steady, full not cycling. It should fire off.
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Gloyale replied to glkiller2's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXIt's the alt. I got 2 from CarQuest that do the same thing. Fault in the sense cicuit. It's the yellow wire at the alt that is also tied directly to the ECU Ig. 12v wire. We replaced the alt with a genuine Subaru alt and the car is all good. There should be a sticky about these bad alts. It affects the 90-94 with the yellow wire at the alt (round plug)
