Gloyale

Dumb question......Are you sure you've got a 2.5? the reason I ask, is that a 95 Legacy, unless an LSi or GT model.........would have a 2.2 in it from factory?

It's not a "safety" switch. It has nothing to do with starting/clutch lockout. that is a seperate switch on the clutch pedal tied to a relay. Nuetral switch is only for ECU operation. In nuetral, ECU will idle engine, If it thinks your in gear...it will not. Also, Off throttle, in gear, ECU cuts fuel for maximum decel engine braking. That is it's only functions.

There is a sheetmetal plate attached to the bottom of engine, accross the area under the flywheel. Make sure that plate isn't being bent and caught between the engine and trans. Helps to wedge a block of 2x4 between the alt and the radiator top to angle the engine "back" towards the trans. loosen the flywheel mounting bolts a bit, then tighten them after installing engine to trans. Access them through the starter hole.

Aircraft guy in my area says a 2.2 longblock, dry, weighs 262.

96 is single port, none interference, roller follower/hydraulic tensioned lifters. I believe the single port engines have a bit more low end torque

Sounds like a regular dual range that is stuck in 4wd. Usually from a broken selector collar. Take off the inspection cover and see hats broke

4eat wasn't used till 88. If its push button 4wd it's a 3at

Your book was referring to ea81 body cars like brats and early 80s GL/DLs. You loyale doesn't need It and the radiator is just old.

I hate to say, but the issue will probably come back These cars are known for weak ignition switches. They conduct, but not enough amps to hold the solenoid closed and actually operate the starter. It's even happening now on the 90's legacies and outbacks (they use the same switch, and they are all getting old too. The standard fix is to add a pushbutton starter switch. I personally preffer a relay. If the switch fails totally, you can add a pushbutton later. 9 out of 10 times, adding a relay triggered by the original starter wire will fix it.

Did you do the final retorque? or just the first torque before the 180 loosening, and then retightening. I guess what I'm getting at, is these gaskets ARE designed to be crushed, loosened, and then recrushed under the final 90 + 90 more degrees tightening sequence. So if you didn't finish the entire sequence......the gasket is still good. If you completed the whole sequence........hmmmm? not sure if you could get it to seal properly again unless you torqued/crushed it even harder. I am gonna say it's a gamble, but could work, at least for 10-50k miles. Is it worth the risk? that's up to the OP.

Yazaki plugs wires would be the originals from 1997. Might wanna replace those

Angled in and back.

Lift bent or body of car?

I found I couldn't get enough pull going straight to the cable. Also they didn't line up well. So what I did, was to use the original piece that connected the 2 cables, and removed the cable from the one side. Then I bolted the open side to the body, as a pivot point. Repeat for both handles. This almost doubles the cable pull, although it increases the effort needed but I got strong arms. I'll try to post some pics.

If it is a Fulltime 4wd from RX there will be a selector rod that runs through the transfer, and up to the front portion of the case for hi/lo. It will ALSO have a lever, low on the passenger side of the transfer section, hooked to a cable that is Vac/solenoid/button operated (just like S/R 4wds) If it doesn't have that lever low on the side, then its not an RX box. Also, if it's binding while on pavement, turning in 4wd, that's true 4wd. An RX box has the open center diff that won't bind unless the above mentioned lever is moved to the "diff lock" position. I would lower the rear end of the trans, and pull the coverplate off the top of the transfer and see if the interlock/selector fork is broken or stuck.

A cap with clips and no screw in the rotor? Are you sure you have the right disty in there for SPFI? Does it have 2 wires to the coil, or a 4 plug round connector? Are you sure it's SPFI not carbed? is it 2wd or 4wd? only 2wd would have been SPFI in 87.

2 sensors Leave the 2 prong one alone. You only need the 1 prong sender from the gauge. If it's pegging to hot, you have it grounded. That aside. I would wire the resistor on the manifold, right near the sensor. Parrallel. Are you sure you have your wire colors right? EA temp wire = Yellow/green EJ temp wire = White/green(90-94 Leg) EA Oil pres. = Yellow/black EJ Oil light. = Green/white(90-94 Leg)

Dual front Ebrake.

Sounds like he drained the front diff. Then tried to refill it through the Auto Trans dipstick hole. I've heard of this happening at Jiffylube before. Subaru Automatics have 3 Drain plugs underneath. Oil pan plug = 17mm head. Forwardmost, on bottom of the black oilpan (hidden by undercover/brushgaurd....remove to drain) Fill through oil cap. Front Diff = 22mm or Torx Right behind crossmember, visible without removing brushgaurd (which is why these get drained, rather than the oil ) Fill through dipstick on PASS. side of vehichle above axle. Transmission fluid = 17mm head Drivers side of the big flat trans oilpan. Fill with ATF from dipstick on Drivers side.

Anything interference (97+ EJ22, any EJ25, or DOHC EJ20) You definately should have covers on. AND check out the condition of tensioners after any major mudding.

Sounds crazy, but pull the oilpan. You want to look for any debris in the oil......possibly the valve piece. Like I said, it sounds crazy but I just found the missing chunk from an Exhaust valve on an 06 2.5 turbo.......in the oilpan. Don't know how it got there (PCV system?) But it definately was the missing face of the valve. good to do anyhow for reseal.

Yes, it will. One thing EJ swaps will teach you over time is EXCACTLY how to set up the charge system. It does absolutely need the light, or at least something with a load, on that circuit.

No....you didn't read carefully. With the plug disconnected = no light. Key on, Eng off.......plug disconnected..............Jumper the WHITE/REDstripe wire to ground.........THEN the battery light should illuminate. If it does not.....then, there is a problem. And did you test for 12v from Ig. on the Black/white stripe wire? Should be 12v with Key on.

That method makes no correction for camber. Any pics of that rig sitting on flat ground from the front? I would wager the front wheels look like this \ --- /

I've got a little box with a tensioner (precompressed), all 4 rollers, and a belt all wrapped up and stored in the smugglers compartment. And I've got my covers on. I will say EVERY time i've run or seen friends run with no covers in either deep snow or mudholes........timing belt jumps teeth. That said.....when you run covers, and then go through deep mudholes.....you better take them off and inspect everything within the next month. The idler rollers get gummed up with mud that dries and turns to dusty hard clay that siezes them prematurely.