Gloyale

The EA82 presusre plate bolts right onto the EA81 Flywheeel. Keep you're EA81 Flywheel and use EA82 PP and Disc.

Wheel bearing. Typical for the sound from them to change when loaded/unloaded by weight shifting in turns. IIRC, outback tire size is 205/70/15.....althoug 95 outbacks don't have the body lift so it may have come with 195/70/15

One nice thing I discovered doing my SPFI swap in my 84 wagon was that there is already a connector in the body harness that gives you access to 3 key parts of your wiring. It is the FPCU, or Rev Sensor unit. You know, the thing mounted in the drivers footwell, that sends power out to the Fuel Pump and Choke only when Ignition pulse (tach signal) is present. Simply put a male spade on the end of the EJ harness wires and plug it in. You can hook your IG. switched power wires(IG. Relay, ECU, Fuel Pump Relay) to the 12v switched wire in the connector. Your Tach output signal wire in the EJ harness can be plugged into the original tach pulse wire. The signal will feed back to the tachometer for RPM reading. And finally, the wire out of the EJ fuel pump relay(power to pump) can be plugged in at this connector. Thus eleminating the need to run new wiring to the new EJ pump. Simply splice the connector from the original fuel pump onto your new one. That means the only other wiring is grounding of the relays, and tapping a constant battery voltage, which can be done onto the back of the fuse panel. I wired mine to the fuse already labeled ECS.

So, then you did block down the subframes to match the lift on the top of hte struts. How large a block did you use on the subframe/ crossmememer? And did you block down the Control arm pivot as well? If you had just shoved OB struts and a 2 inch spacer on the top, you'd be having issues.

I've worked on a few 96 and 97 Legacy Brightons that had dual ports, original motors (I checked the numbers because of the dual ports) Brightons were built in Japan, whereas the up level Legacy and Outbacks were built in Indiana. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. On a side note, I have seen lots of 96+ EJ18s in Imprezas, all with dual ports, and I think all with roller rockers(which early dual port 2.2s do not have) They might be valuable for doing a 2.5>2.2 swap. Use EJ18 heads, with the roller rockers AND dual ports. The 2.2 manifold bolts right on.

http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/1169/new-rollover-protection-criteria-lead-to-fewer-iihs-top-safety-picks-for-2010/ This article is not entirely about Subarus, but in the middle of it it mentions Subaru as the ONLY maker to meet new Top Pick standards with ALL models.

I just got some brass, barbed adapters to step up to the EJ hose sizes. I needed one back at the supply line to the pump, and one into the return line at the firewall.

So......you added 2inch blocks to the top of Outback Struts? On a standard legacy? That means your wheels are 4 inches+ further "down" from the body than witht eh original geometry. I would be concerned that is too much lift to the top of the stuts wihtout spacing down the subframes.(espescially with no camber compensation) Let us know how your CV joints hold out. It would be nice to see some pics of you're CV angles and Camber angles after the lift. Could you take some shots looking dead center from down low front and rear?

Yeah, out there, you can't keep a car longer than 20 years without major body repair. All the PB blaster does is disolve the rust......WHICH IS THE WHOLE CAR!!!.....so yeah. I agree.....I'd take mandatory snow tires over salt anytime. Not having to replace your vehichle so often, you can afford to buy 2 sets of tires.

It is so easy to make an appropriate length pitch stopper, why not do it? Just use a bracket from an EJ trans and modify it it to bolt to the spine of you're EA trans, then cut your old pitch stopper, sleeve it, bolt it all in place then weld it. remove and paint optional without one you will break motor mounts.......sooner or later......

If you learn how to do it right, you don't really need the rear ebrake to drift. I preffer to have the e-brake on the front for emergency and for the fact that on a slippery slope the stopped wheels are the ones with more weight on them. Additionally, you can seperate the two cables to each use a seperate lever for each. This allows you to lock a freespinning(unloaded) wheel and transfer power to the one on the ground still to get over obstacles. It allows a fair amount of brake steering in the mud.

Looks like the factory turbo hood scoop, just a different color one.

If it is an original Subaru axle, and there is no bad contamination or other signs of damage, I'd be inclide to reboot it. The aftermarket axles are sheeit. I've been noticing that alot of them have odd size shafts and joints too, so you won't be able to use them to mix and match cups/shafts with the original Subaru stuff. But reboot is more work. If you azre gonna do it, carefully open the lock tabs on the clamps, and you'll be able to reuse them. You will need a roll of paper rags, and a set of snap ring pliers. Take the boot of the inner DOJ, then reach into the cup and pry the ring out of the inside lip of the cup. Then the axle with the inner race, balls, and cage will slide out. Use the snap ring plier to remove the inner race from the end of the shaft, then the boot can be slid off and replaced.

Yup, I read his post too quick. Trans crossmember wouldn't be too hard to use, but I actually fabbed my own. Yeah, I was talking about the whole front end.

On the later models there are also 2 larger 16mm bolt heads(only bolt on a Suby I've ever seen with 16mm heads)

I did this on a lifted car, but it would prbably work without a lift. The EA81 crossmember is about 1 inch narrower thant the EA82, so......... I torch cut a the inner area around the bolt holes on the crossmember on 3 sides, to form a tab that I could bend up and drill new holes in. Then after bolted to my blocks, I welded in some support brackets. the EA82 radius rods will bolt right into the EA81 rod mounts. You must use EA82 front axles.

Yeah, the tilt mechnism can pinch the wires for the ignition switch if they aren't routed just right.

It is pretty easy to remvoe the choke housing cover (drill out rivets) and then reset the Existing spring. Even if it's broke, you can simply bend a new hook on it and reset it. Must be done cold, on a reasonably cool day.

Where are you located? I've got a few EA71s sitting on the floor of the shop. One runner and 2 cores. PM me.

88 and 89 GLs the 4EAT was an option on turbo cars as well. Swap will work fine. TCU will be a little goofed up by the missing TPS, but otherwise will run fine.

doesn't look like there is any angle to those blocks. Hope you don't have camber issues. Otherwise, nice job.

If it is a 4EAT, you can simply put a bar between the cup and the trans, and wedge the axle stub outward just an inch or so. If it is a 5mt, you will need ot punch the pin out. No need ot do any other axle removal. With the cup slid over, use a swivel and an extension from below.

The split hair is whether or not the rear engagement is 80% or 90% or 99.44% or 100% The truth is the every 4eat at this point only transfers as much as it's particular clutch will hold. They are all worn and some work great, nearly full locked for all intents and purposes. However, once worn, the engagement can get a bit, well soft or "soggy" would be my best desciption. I've also encountered a few that have sheared the outer hub of the transfer clutch from the end of the main shaft. (It's basically spotwelded onto the end of the shaft in 3 places. I want to build a beefier one for my 4.44)

This is probably the best description ever on the operation of both the 4EAT and the true differential action of the the 5mt.

PM me about our HighGuys Lift kit for your Subaru. I have kits made and ready to ship for your car. Or email me at Loveyoursubaru@yahoo.com