Gloyale

Not DOT approved for highway permanent use. Weak rims and too skinny for that size tire. Bad idea.

The 2 on the left of picture are the coil (equivalent to 85 and 86 of diagrahm) the other 2 are the load (equivalent to 30 and 87)

If you don't have an EGR valve mounted to the car you've got a huge vacuum leak. When you rebuilt the carb, did you actually remove the emulsion tubes and clear them? Also did you replace the small o-rings for the airhorns? (remove pin, pull horn?) And plug that big line and ditch the AAV (or replace EGR with an F.I. one from EA82) That AAV system sucks. You can also unscrew the big stainless tube from the reed blocks and shove a quarter in each and reassemble....blocks off the pipes while lookin stock.

For trans crossmember I used the original EA piece, and modified it to accept the centrer section of a legacy trans mount. (required 2 holes drilled, a little grinding) Then, the "rear" section i just used a piece of flat 1/2" steel bolted in were an EA auto trans crossmember would go. Drilled 2 holes in that to accept the other end of the Legacy center section. Shifter I cut and welded an EJ shifter (trans end) to an EA shifter (interior end) after the trans was fully installed to get the length of the stay and selector both correct. I also ground the bracket off the shifter and moved it up about 1/2" to make the throw shorter. I shortened the EA front driveline section by 2-1/4" No XT6 parts required

It's a 7/8th, 21 spline, but 200 MM 4wd would be 1", 23 spline and 225mm

You do not need a Helicoil. I've fixed this dozens of times......never helicoiled one. Get a 7/16ths-14 tap and run it in the hole. The stripped hole should be perfect size already to run the tap in with a bit of lube. it can even be done with the exhuast in place, through the flange. Get a 7/16ths exhaust stud and nut. install. Done. Way less money and time, and if it should ever happen again you still have room to use a helicoil later.

Hmm......I've seen a couple of ECUs with dead CEL circuits. I am losing faith in the SPFI ECU's.......I've got a drawer with 6 dead ones now......well 4 dead(no power up at all) and 2 with non-working CEL and possible other glitches....but those 2 did still run the car when I pulled them. The 4 "dead" ones have a visibly burned resistor on the Main power supply in. Position "R1" on the board. The non-op CEL I cannot find a physical problem need a more knowledgeable programmer/computer expert to figure those.

You need to hold the drivers side cams. Spring clamps and a couple 17mm wrenches help/

Still puts the output through the transfer gear.

Thanks so much I should have searched....... Damn I'm a Newb

Generic Motors I mean General Motors. Garbage.

That means it has good compression.

Hey all. JUst did an EJ18 in a 87 GL-10. Runs great but I've got the typical non-op tachometer after hooking up the EJ ECU. This isn 't a big deal, but the owner would like to get it working at some point. I know this has been solved by some of the awesome electro-techno guys on here. Anybody got a solution for me? Hook it up to the coil directly? Some kind of modifier circuit? Thanks in advance.

Remove the plastic surround Remove small phillips screw on back of lock cylinder that holds the switch body. done.

No lights on ECU means no power to ECU or ECU is fried. I have been seeing more of this lately. Main Resitor on the power board labeled "R1" burns out. Look at the ECU itself and see if the code light (not the CEL) is on with key on.

One would need to cut an opening on the drivers side of the bell to mount a Starter in the EJ position. OR..... Cut the bell area of the passenger side of the EJ25 to make room for the starter snout.

Walker kits have been good for me.

Oh man......when someone starts thinking it'd be "easier" to adpapt GM junk into their subaru....you know the car is in trouble.J/K Your ECU needs that optical disty unit to operate the F.I. as well as spark, so a GM unit would not work. You can use any 88-94 Fuel injected EA82 disty. Also you can use an 87 F.I. disty too.....but you'd have to swap connectors on the 87 to 88+ style. Why do you think your disty is bad???

If you look at the old hitachi....there is a fitting where the fuel line flows in. It is a "T" of sorts, with the main fuel line being 5/16" or so, and the smaller "T" of the side is a return loop to the tank...is like 1/8". This is common for older carbed cars.

Generic exhaust often has O2 port, so could be replacement y-pipe on a non-feedback system.

Too thick fluid?

Distributor, coil And entire front wiring harness

Under the hood. Near fuel filter + wiper motor (dirvers side behind the strut tower)

Pressed in Leave it

It's not as hard as you'd think. What you need is the following from a proper outback with the "lift" If your's has the crossmember spacers, it wil work. Crossmember spacers w/bolt set Steering coupler A-Arm pivots (they look similar but are different for outback verse legacy) May want to get the trans crossmember but won't likely need it. You do not need different motor mounts.