Gloyale

There is no linkage adjustment. You need to extend teh linkage.

Check that the bushings in the stay rod are still there and tight/not squished.

Do not use cheap headgaskets, unless you want to do them again next year.

Hanresses are completely different. Will NOT plug and play you need a full harness swap or a piggyback. Stock OBS 5mt will not hold up long to EJ20g power. Oh yeah, the front crossmember will need to be swapped with a turbo one.

Brats/hatches/EA81 wagons etc.....they do have a marker on the side of the front bumper......small bulb. And both legs are not positive. You are seeing a backfeed from the marker on the other side.

Dream machine. Pretty reliable from what I understand. 4EAT trans is probably the weakest link as they age. Just oddball as far as getting parts. I would love one of these "Super Station" cars.

99 2.2 is the weird year where they have 2 airfilter boxes. Make sure the second one (attached to throttle body)the bottom tabs are seated securely and the clips are locked tight. Check for any other leaks in the Air intake. These will throw off the MAF.

Weld a washer to broken bolt. Weld Nut to the top of washer. Let cool for 5 mins. Use a wrench on the nut to remove.

Stripped hub would spin all the time. I would bet this is a Flywheel step issue. Surface it to proper spec.

Yeah that's what I thought too but more and more people ARE modifying trannies so anythings possible.

Would have been the dealer add on kit for a DL. Seen several of them actually. 14 wires is an excact match for that system and like I said IIRC, the Yellow/White wire is the tach signal wire should go to coil - neg.

Putting the taller tires on opposite axles allows the diffs at each axle to "split" the difference between the 2 on each axle....and then in theory the "average" between both axles will be the same so the center diff/clutch pack (MT/AT) sees the same rotation.

So.....the trans you are using.........do you have an adapter plate for it? Or does it mate directly to the EJ engine? I would pull the transmission drain plug.......mark the ring gear and start counting teeth by rotating it until teh mark comes back around. the number of teeth will give you a clue, but not a definative answer which ratio it is.......since the pinion # of teeth is part of the equation too and thete is no easy way to count those in the car. 39/11=3.545 (SVX) 37/10 = 3.7 (RX, XT, Turbo GLs) 39/10 = 3.9 37/9 = 4.11 40/9=4.44 Based on this, if you get 39 ring teeth, you definately have a 3.9 since no SVX came with D/R and no D/Rs came 3.545 to my knowledge anywhere. Now if you get 37 teeth......you could have either 3.7 or 4.11......could probably figure which by observing if the front wheels want to travel faster or slower than the rear. Front faster=3.7, front slower=4.11 If you've got a 4.11 D/R you are a lucky SOB.

Good engines. That's pretty low miles for one. Only issue with them is serpentine belt idler and tensioner like to seize bearings (same 6203 bearing IIRC) High price but for low miles it's I guess reasonable.

Put the N/A motor in with the NA intake. Put the Turbo crank and cam sensors on the N/A block. Put an N/A exhaust on it. Drive it.

Does it have cruise control installed? The box could be cruise unit and wire could be the tach signal wire to - side of coil. Probably not the no start issue.

Permatex black "the Right Stuff" brand RTV sealant is the best. it's all I use. Clean surfaces well and DO NOT use any kind of gasket orther than whatever sealant you use. Use "the Right Stuff"

There is an impreza based "outback sport" also. This is a smaller car not lifted any more than regular Impreza but with bigger wheels, disc brakes and some trim changes

Flush or just a hair below Do not drive it to the bottom......it will leak.

T-bone: 84 wagon w/8" lift EJ22 OBD I EA82 5spd D/R Dual E-brake Long travel rear suspension Rear Disc CB Roof Rack 31x10.5x15 Mud Rovers on redrilled Isuzu rims Axle Folley: 84 factory 4wd sedan Sunroof, PS, PW, Cruise control, A/C 1-1/2" front end lift 96 Outback Heated seats CB Pheonix......Rolled rally style....roof collapse was not as bad until whinching it over it got mangled.....She had just turned 300K....Gone now to the crusher. RIP And introducing, Mr. Stee,............ Eck Stee Non-turbo 89 XT 4cyl 4wd, now Fulltime w/difflock Sach's EA82 adjustable front 4wd wagon struts, front. Cranked about halfway Front crossmember, trans dropped w/outback spacer 1-1/4" 2" Rear shock lift 205/65/15 Nokian Studded Snow Tires on redrilled toyota rims. And Miss Cleo 87-1/2 XT turbo on a custom Isuzu/Subaru frame N/A ea82 mpfi, 5spd d/r with welded transfer collar. Nissan 720 2:1 divorced transfer case 86 trooper front suspension, hubs and brakes, running Subaru diff and hybrid Isuzu/Subaru axles 4.11 diff welded Subaru ea81 rear suspension w/ 4.11 diff welded (front hubs unlock for hi traction areas) 33x12.50 BFG tires

Temp sensor is the culprit. That code will not set unless there is a real issue. And with tehe ECU not having a correct temp, it's not able to properly set the mix for startup. Crank sensor code set because of no-start but is not the issue. O2 sensor can affect running but won't cause no start. Purge solenoid also will not affect starting.

Okay Here's a few diagrahms. First one is simple switched operation independant of any other wiring in the car. And also this simple version runs the actual load of the lamp through the switch, not the relay.....so you must use a switch that can handle the load of the center lamp (About 5 amps) Now here's a more complicated setup. First off it uses 2 relays, one for lamp load and one for door operation. Also, in this setup the first relay is triggered by the running light +, so you can't leave it on w/ key off. Additionally there is a toggle that allows the user to select "always on" independant of headlights, or to come on with the "LO" beam......or "HI" beam whichever you preffer to have the center lamp on with. Diagrahm shows "LO" connection **No idea why Photobucket made them pink. They were done on white paper and color scanned, and are white in my files on the computer. Photobucket uploaded twice and both times went pink......ughh. Okay.....now they are not pink? IDK..... Important note......the Black/red wire and the Green/orange wire at the lamp unit get looped back toghether....shown more clearly in the first diagrahm. Also in the second one I forgot to show the Lamp and Motor black wire going to ground. Look at the first diagrahm to see example.

Take the seal to Home Depot or anywhere they sell PVC/ABS pipe fittings. Match up the seal diameter to the correct size PVC pipe......If you need a half size between use an end cap or piece with a "female" side. Use that cap and hit it with a mallot as a seal driver

96 Roller follower cams with a good torque profile. Still non-interference.

This was just what I though. No point in pulling the tank.....likely to be more problems with that on a rusty car. I replaced a set of rear lines on a rustbucket (former east coast car) and the customer could not affrord alot of money.....so I cut the old lines and routed the new ones behind the tank above the crossmember as best I could. They are tucked up tight and don't vibrate so should be fine.