Gloyale

88~ish Chevy s-10 pickup 4wd rear shocks work perfect for EA81 w/6 inch lift.(6 inch torsion bar blocks) You do have to open up the upper holes about 1/8th in with a drill bit but otherwise a direct, fairly long travel bolt in (8~9 inch travel)

I've got an endmill you can use/start with.......I"ve needed 2 in the past. they are about $20 bucks for the good carbide one for a dremel. Dremel works fine just have to go slow lots of shallow cuts little by little. Balance.....meh.

Subaru uses common power to bulb and switches Hi/Lo on the grounding side. Almost all HID kits come wired opposite. Ferp that's why the HI beams are always on. You have to rewire the trigger set for the relay to switch on the grounding side and get power to the coil side of the relays from the common 12v+ post. Power for the Load side of the relays should come straight from battery.

Ea81 and Ea82 cranks will not interchange. They use the same bearings but the cranks are different. EA81 crank has area for Distributor gear behind the front pulley.

If the Engine was not grounded, the car would not start as the starter grounds to the engine block.

Leave it off. Its useless anyhow. Supposedly for under car aerodynamics and a bit of skid protection but obviously a little snow is enough to wreck the damn thing. Honestly I think subaru puts those stupid psuedo skid panels on just to catch and absorb enough oil leaks (ever notice the fabric mat on the inner side of them?) to not leave spots on the driveway for 100k miles......so that the 1st owner is out of warranty before they notice the oil leaks.

This IS the switch. Not a relay. The non-electrical part of the ignition assembly is the "lock cylinder" There should be no difference in the switch itself tilt or no tilt. Only the lock cylinder would be different Switch itself comes off the back of the cylinder with a single small phillips screw.

Great. Thanks for the update. This has been a good example thread of simple inspection with the right information solving a problem with an easy fix. And of why it's not a good idea to start willy-nilly buying and replacing parts you don't know what they are or what they do on a "hunch" or because "it worked" for someone else.

Yes they both operate in the same range. MPFI sensor will fit where the SPFI one goes.......But SPFI one will not fit in MPFI "flat" intake........SPFI probe end is too long. Although......I must say all the MPFI ones I've seen are Brown, with a "bosch" style connector like the MPFI injectors.

What are you trying to gain here? The intake has coolant runing through it so you aren't going to make it any colder with spacer......espescially not an aluminium one. One would want to use Phenolic material of some sort to accomplish that.....but again....there is hot coolant in the whole thing so.... Now if you wanted it to run cooler, tap the back of those intake spacers, put fittings in them for the coolant and cap the upper side where the intake would bolt on........removing the coolant from the intake manifold.

+1 Marketing trick to appeal to people who want to do something to "improve" their car but have no real money, knowledge, etc to do any real upgrades. Spend the $65 bucks on something your car actually needs. Stick to paper filter....your engine will thank you for it.

NO 87 4wd Fedral models are all Carbed 87 only 2wd or Cali 4wd are SPFI 88+ are all SPFI

Okay...lets clarify some info about these shifting and light activation systems. 4wd light for this trans is activated by a switch bolted to the floor, inside the car. It can be out of adjustment. Try lifting the lever a bit til you feel the first indent. Regardless of if the light comes on.......then try that to see if you get 4wd Hi. The "LO" light is activated by a switch in the trans....so If you see a "LO" light come on the dash, then it is actually in LO.....if not....you are likely in HI or the "nuetral" that is between Hi and Lo......really just a dead zone not meant to be nuetral. My guess is that the switch for your "4wd" light is out of adjustment....and when you move the lever far enough to activate the light, you've actually gone past 4wd Hi and into the "neutral" dead zone.

I Found about 10 different options for new or Reman PS pumps with a quick search. Plus wrecking yards got em too. I understand wanting a lighter car with a Manual. However it would be pretty easy to put a manual behind the EZ30. That will wake that beast up fo sure. But just trying to be clear for others reading this. The EZ30 has a stellar performance record in my book. Low maintainence with no timing belt and very few HG problems. Much more reliable HP than a turbo motor.

Or a pre-compressed tensioner with a pin in it ready to go As for the Water pump.....Do not use the WP gasket at all if it's a paper one. Which I assume it is because if the pump came with a correct gasket....it wouldn't have said to use sealant. Call a friend, get a ride, or order a OE stamped metal one from reputable seller and have it shipped to you. If you use the paper gasket, with or without sealant.....it will have been a waste of time.

EZ30 (3.0 in the outback) is one of the best engines subaru has ever made. What parts have you had trouble finding? The only thing they ever need is Serpentine belt tensioner/idler bearings (same part. a $12, 6203 bearing either RS or ZZ will work fine. IIRC) EGR will be the only hiccup putting 2.2 into the Impreza. Still will run fine but will throw a CEL. Unless you use the "bypass" trick that's been done by some here. I think it involes routing the EGR pipe from the Mani over to a "T" into the IAC line. Search the USRM

The blue box is the Diode pack for several of the different circuits. Not a Diagnostic connector despite it's resemblence to the newer OBD II plug. The Green connectors are the "test" mode connectors....Puts the car in "D-check" mode...for checking relay, fuel pump, and code reading....as well as setting timing. The white ones could be the "Read" connectors...although I see 2 wires in them and I though they should be black....if there is a black pair up in there then the white ones are for something else...Maybe just a illumination connector for one of the swithces? the larger multi pin connectors are parallel legs of the MPFI circuits. Can probed to test for voltage, pulses, etc... I've got the FSM that outlines testing using them....but it's kinda a pain. Mostly they were used for line end checking of functions at the assembly plant.

Like naru said....it's .05mm limit .008 is closer to .10mm But the head can be ground .3mm so you should be able to surface those and use them. Standard height is 90.6mm so you can take them to 90.3mm. They'd have to be cut several times to get to the limit.

If the clutch cable isn't connected to the battery.....it cannot provide a ground. Something has to be connected to the negative post of the battery. Period. I don't understand why this is a hard concept. How would the cable be connecting to the battery? Are you saying the engine is grounded but the chassis is not? There would have to be several disconnected grounds for this to happen. Battery to frame (which he states is in place) And the wire from back of trans to firewall, And the wire from the passenger side PS bolt to the chassis......as well as all the ECU grounds that go to the Engine. The engine would not cut out power even if the Chassis was COMPLETELY disconnected from ground as the ECU is grounded through the intake manifold bolt. I bet dollars to donuts that the clutch pedal is hitting either the White or the Blue Main power leads.....Which have only fusible links upstream so no fuse would blow and would take several seconds of arcing/shorting to melt the FL.

I'd be skeptical of a Helicoil here. Some of the head bolts are very close to water and oil passeges. Not much extra meat around them..I know on an EJ some of the holes a Helicoil would not work. 7/16ths fine thread is so close to m11 that it can be used. 1 thread difference over a 2 1/2" run. I've replaced EJ head bolts with 7/16th fine thread B9 rod (high grade all thread) as head studs. Drive the rod in tight to the bottom.....it won't ever come out. This allows you to catch teh extra threads at the bottom.....although if the hole is badly stripped it may not be enough to hold. I'm running an EJ22 in my wheeler like this right now.

BFH FTW!

2200 is steep.....espescially since you can reuse your T-belt, Idlers, WP...etc....since they are not old. Just do the next timing belt job when that belt has 100k on it. Engine doesn't NEED to be pulled but most do.....it amkes the job easier.

Once again to be clear. Step "4" in that proceedure should not be there. Loosen by 180 degrees only once. Twice is too far removed and allows the head and gasket to shift between the steps. And also......Why the hell would they give the center bolts torque in Ft/lbs, and the outer ones in In/lbs?......stupid haynes/chiltons Torque to 51 ft/lbs (fsm doesn't say to do the 22 ft/lbs first...not for grapithe gasket 2.2) loosen 180 degrees Torque Center bolt torque......25 ft/lbs Outer bolts....14 ft/lbs then tighten 90 degrees then tighten another 90 degrees

That wagon is worth $3000 tops. Espescially since it's a california car......and an 87.....and a 3spd Automatic......yuck. Makes the wiring, and the disty and engine connectors all 1 year only hard to find parts.

Large bearing at the rear of the upper shaft. When it goes the shaft can walk fore/aft in the case so when the sshift fork pushes the collar the whole shaft moves....instead of the just the collar.......When they start popping out of 4th or 5th you know it's bad. Replacement is fairly easy with just a simple press.....or remove shaft and take it to machine shop to press. Once fixed...the trans will work great again.....unless you let it go so long that debris damaged other gears. Sometimes there will be evidence of the bearing spinning in the case.......when this happens a series of "peens" from a pointed punch will bulge the inside area of the bearing seat enough to grab it again.......sounds ghetto but totally works. Make sure the large bearing is installed with the snap collar towards the back.....and don't forget the spacer collar when reassembling the rear section to the main cases.