Gloyale

Okay. Update. Got the factory relay from Crazy.....it was useful. I also happened across an 83 Factory FSM Full Book all 6 sections!!! A friend that does all new Import Repair on Euro cars had the FSM sitting unused in his upstairs.....I asked to borrow it he said take it and keep it!!! Anyhow......After lots of reverse engineering and interpretation of schematics......I concluded the "timer" unit is an overblown 87a relay (standard bosch, Single throw, Double pole) So I am working now on posting pics, video, and a diagrahm with wire colors. I actually plan on 3 diagrahms. One for simple switched, One for "key on" switched so you can't leave it w/ key out, and one for alternately switched by Hi or just ON.

+1 I never liked drag racing

Do all 4 tires match? Same size? Any D/R 5spd with 23 splines (that hasn't been modded) should be 3.9 so should match rear diff. There are 3.7 single range trans in Non-turbo xt with 23 splines.....but no D/Rs. You could take the cover off the rear diff and count teeth on the Ring + pinion gear. 39/10 is 3.9 You shouldn't really drive in 4wd on pavement at all.

I do not think there is any problem with your diff. Diffs clunk and thunk and whine and buck, always with metal shavings on the magnet.......but not click. Axles click......

Both CV joints and the axle shaft between each end, are reffered to as a whole as a "CV axle" or also sometimes a "CV half shaft" as opposed to a "solid axle" Force is being trasmitted through the CV joint, through the axle, to the wheel......and there being held by the brakes......this keeps the whole system under load.......the vibration of the motor is no longer isolated to the engine mounts rubber, but now being transfered through more components around the whole car (struts, trans mounts, a-arm bushings) this makes the vibration you feel while stopped in gear. Not excactly sure why subarus do it more than other types.....could be steeper CV angles....but I think it's something to do with the equal length axles. New axles can help......or other times the problem developes after an axles is changed. But for certain the issue is very much related to the axles. I've got a little bit of this in the H6 LL bean.......I just shift to "N" when stopped.

I'd get new heads. But I suppose a thicker HG could be used.

Yeah...that will do it. Not with every car but i had this experience with a few.......go overstock on the geometry and the axles click clack......ESPESCIALLY aftermarkets. (most aftermarket axles are not made to operate at the extreme angles of subarus compared to most FWD cars) Get yourself the crossmember spacers, the A-arm rear pivots, and the steering coupler and pitch stopper from a 96-99 outback.

The TCU will see a vehichle speed that doesn't jive with the Gear and RPMs. They are definately not the same trans as the 4cyl. I've had them apart side by side and the guts are different. The packs are different, the drums are different. Even the front diff "bell" portion has an additional ear and extra bolt hole on the passenger side. Yes I too have swapped random trans around and the TCU's ALWAYS throw codes when matched to wrong gear ratio trans. It will be shifting at odd times...most likely too late for the 4cyl trans with 6 cyl engine......you will be winding it out more than needed before each shift would be my guess. You can try it and hope it's good enough.....but if it's for a "customer" of any kind I would not recommend guessing for shortcuts or cost savings. Rebuild the trans in it if it's not too bad. I did ours 6 years, and 110k miles ago and it's still great. I drive very fast and hard....alot.

Black plugs should just be read memory connectors. Will keep the CEL on....ussually flashing steady if no codes. Should not affect starting. Now the green ones.....that could.....they lock the ECU into an open loop/ static timing/fuel map.

relay is still a good idea. The ignition switches get flaky. If the fuse is popping you installed the relay wrong. Should be by # Batt power # 30 Out to starter solenoid #87 Ground # 85 Signal from switch (oe starter wire) # 86 unused #87a

Aside from physically swapping the buckets....all you have to do is splice in 2 additional connectors for the extra pair of high beams (inner 2 of the 4) You could splice in a connector that has 3 wires for each, making 4 lo as well as 4 hi beam lights.....but this isn't excactly DOT approved (too many watts w/highs on) One way to improve the light is with a relay setup. Wired directly to the battery and engine ground......and triggered by one of the original headlight connectors. This lets the power to each bulb come through new wire, of a much shorter circuit. This means the bulbs see less volt drop. One way to check is with a good multimeter. Probe the battery w/engine running and observe volts.....should be at or near 14. Now check volts at the headlight connector w/engine running. Could be as low as 11.5 with old wiring and switches carrying all the load. Adding a relay setup will up the volts at the bulb to more than 13.....it makes a huge difference.

Much more. Non-running semi rusted they still fetch $1500+ all the time. Registered, and ready to drive it's worth at least $2500~3000 and goin up every day. They will never make more, they are a cult classic, and will only ever increase in value for the rest of humanity. Adjust for inflation, and nice ones are already more valuable now then when sold new.

Input seal requires splitting the case......very difficult on a 4spd. replace all the others. And then get a 5spd when the 4spd craps out.

Definately take this to the BBB..And to SOA (Subaru of America) Their price was OUTRAGEOUS to start with. Totally OUTRAGEOUS......and they did a substandard job. I have never had a customer bill so high......ussually if I replace EVERYTHING on a 2.5 (main seals, cam seals, seperator plate seals, oil pump o-ring and seal, HG's, Waterpump, T-belt w/new idlers, Surface heads + valve stem seals and reseal oil pan, spark plugs, Oil + filter) the job runs just under 2K. FWIW......the engine should cost no more than about $1500~2000 TOPS to put a few new valves in the heads and redo the HG's. No need to resurface, or replace Waterpump......just get a new belt/idlers and new valves in the heads. Good time to check the rear seperator plate seal if it ahsn't been done. Doesn't sound like the dealer did it.

98 is a phase II trans. Won't work. Diffferent TCU entirely. I am skeptical that it's the diff. Was there any sign of metal in the diff fluid? Never ever heard one "Clicking" while turning. That is a CV joint issue. Let me ask....do you have any lift on the car? Outback or Forrester struts? Spacers? That can sometimes make axles click prematurely.

Replace CV axle.

Final drive is 4.11......But the individual gears are different. So the TCU will not like it. Throw codes. Might be able to use a different TCU but then it will be calculating for 4cyl shift points so still not ideal. Pretty much stuck getting an actual H6 non-vdc trans. Or fix the current trans. I rebuilt the one in our 03 LL bean, needed a new Ring and Pinion.....along with new seals......total parts cost was about $1000 and then the time of doing the work. I had to put all the guts into an old Forrester case because the Pump stud sheared on the H6 case The external bodies are the same but again the internals are different. Oh and 4cyl trans use spin on filter......which will not clear the H6 catalytics.....so if you do use a 4cyl trans make sure to get the filter blockoff and nipple off the old H6 trans so you can mount it to the replacement trans.

It's just a relay. The rest is it's mounting bracket. It likely bolts down or clips in somewhere the wires will reach. It really doesn't matter where it goes as long as it fit's back in the dash behind the glovebox somewhere.

You bypassed your fuel pump control unit. OK, but leaves Auto choke unpowered and leaves fuel pump pumping even when engine stopped in crash, rollover etc.

14mm Metric 12 point. Likely bent valves.

To use an EA82 5spd, he will need at very least an EA82 Disc, PP, and Throwout (ea81 throwout is too small for EA82 PP). May be used with EA81 flywheel, but starter may/will need shimmed out. Not ideal. Much better to use Full EA82 clutch kit.

Whoa!!! 23mm??? That's .905in I think too much I KNOW that EA82 flywheel step is .830 for 4cyl 4wd and .815 for XT6 spec. I have my machinist take mine to .810 for redrilled flywheels for EJ swaps. I will try to confirm those #s for EA81.

I only have a spec here for a Phase I 2.2 .3mm or .012 in. Each time they are cut is likely to be .05mm or .002in so that's 6 cuts if they were all very thin shaves......maybe only 3 or 4 if they were deeper cuts. The way to know for sure is to measure the height of the head, which is standard height of 98.3mm with a minimum of 98.0

99 is Phase II so using the 04 2.5 is easy. Simply swap exhaust manifolds, The Cam/Crank sprockets, and use the 99 intake on the 2.5 longblock.

11/12/13 are ghost codes set when checking w/ engine off......or set after long cranking w/ no start. Clear them and check again with engine running. 34 and 35 are probably bad solenoids relplace or install resistor as dummy load.